Kraig, Ryan. Mabey I am set in my ways and I read the text too. I still believe the locking should be locked into the direction of rotation. I been doing it that way for a long time and never had one come loose. If you tighten it with the direction of rotation everytime the engine fires it tries to loosen that collar, eventually it will.
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Archive through September 14, 2009
- Thread starter dross
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Dave, I believe if the collar and setscrew are properly tightened one should not have a problem with either rotation. However, I also believe it's the bearing as it rides directly on the crank-shaft, not the collar, that the crank-shaft will try to rotate, thus tightening it.
Ryan, on the double set screws in the PTO I use anti-seize.
Ryan, on the double set screws in the PTO I use anti-seize.
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
Now I remember why I like the Quietlines with the electric clutch.
Dave R.,
I agree. Locking it /turning it into the direction of the engine rotation, which is counter-clockwise when looking at the tractor & engine from the front or PTO end.
Kraig McC.,
I also agree with you that the bearing should be turning constantly into the collar, which should keep it tight.
David R.,
Also correct. The collar has the set screw. The bearing has the eccentric stub which turns into the eccentric bore in the collar.
It isn't that complicated...which makes it even more frustrating when it doesn't do what I think it should do.
Ryan Wilke
I agree. Locking it /turning it into the direction of the engine rotation, which is counter-clockwise when looking at the tractor & engine from the front or PTO end.
Kraig McC.,
I also agree with you that the bearing should be turning constantly into the collar, which should keep it tight.
David R.,
Also correct. The collar has the set screw. The bearing has the eccentric stub which turns into the eccentric bore in the collar.
It isn't that complicated...which makes it even more frustrating when it doesn't do what I think it should do.
Ryan Wilke
Ryan, Are you turning the locking collar hand tight or are you using the hole (not the set screw hole) and a punch and hammer to properly drive the collar tight before tightening the set screw?
Richard C.,
I still prefer the mechanical PTO. Say, do you have the approximate dimensions of the rubber ISO bushings for a QL? I may have stumbled onto a few rubber bushings (1970's vintage still in their original plastic bag) that might be the same size....
Richard C.,
dlouw
Well-known member
Dale
Excellent job on restoring that "family" model 70.
Dave & Allen
Thanks for pointing me to the paints in FAQ's. No offence. I've been there. In my September 5 note I wrote: I've started "resurrecting" a 1967 102 and since the paints listed under FAQ is not available over here in South Africa, I need to match as best as I can. My best sample is behind the weights, or inside the wheel rims. Any other suggestions how I can get a better sample will be appreciated. If color swabs are available for airmailing, it may help. It's just that the beautifully restored tractors on this site looks more white than the (IH901) cream.
Viewing the color swabs in the FAQ (IH901) with the same PC as I view the restored tractors, there is no match. I was just trying to get a better sample. Otherwise I will color match from parts like the inside of the rims.
Thanks for trying to help. It is appreciated.
Excellent job on restoring that "family" model 70.
Dave & Allen
Thanks for pointing me to the paints in FAQ's. No offence. I've been there. In my September 5 note I wrote: I've started "resurrecting" a 1967 102 and since the paints listed under FAQ is not available over here in South Africa, I need to match as best as I can. My best sample is behind the weights, or inside the wheel rims. Any other suggestions how I can get a better sample will be appreciated. If color swabs are available for airmailing, it may help. It's just that the beautifully restored tractors on this site looks more white than the (IH901) cream.
Viewing the color swabs in the FAQ (IH901) with the same PC as I view the restored tractors, there is no match. I was just trying to get a better sample. Otherwise I will color match from parts like the inside of the rims.
Thanks for trying to help. It is appreciated.
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- Home of the Plow Special
No problem Don... We're ALWAYS glad to provide as much non-help as necessary. Just let us know when you need more!
Dawid, I want to say I'm sorry for getting your name wrong before, I get the problem now, screens can give altered colors sometimes. I'm color blind so I don't usually say anything about restored tractor paint. I agree with you about useing a protected section to find an accurate color match.
Ryan, When I say turn into the directiion of rotation I'm saying clockwise standing in front of the engine. The engine will always try to tighten it.
Kraigs right about punching it with a hammer. you can go to far with that though. Tap it till it's tight and lock it down with the set screw.
Ryan, When I say turn into the directiion of rotation I'm saying clockwise standing in front of the engine. The engine will always try to tighten it.
Kraigs right about punching it with a hammer. you can go to far with that though. Tap it till it's tight and lock it down with the set screw.
David R. / Kraig McC.,
I really appreciate you guys helping me get this through my thick scull!
Nope, I did NOT use a punch and hammer to lock the collar to the bearing. It's coming to me now, I can NOW visualize how that would work.
I placed the pulley drive hub 1.25" deep on the crank. Then I snugged the hub set screw with blue (removable) loctite on its threads.
Then I slip the collar on, then slip on the bearing, then tap the collar in a CLOCKWISE rotation (while still facing the engine from the front, via the punch and mallet at the second hole in the collar), effectively locking the eccentric bore of the collar snugly to the eccentric on the bearing stub. This will permit the engine to continually try to tighten it further with the COUNTER-CLOCKWISE crank rotation. Once the collar is tapped snug, then I'll turn the entire collar & bearing "assembly" on the crank snout until the collar set screw is aligned with the crankshaft keyway and then snug the collar set screw down with some blue loctite on its threads.
Now, I can smear a bit of never-seize into the bearing seat in the clutch casting then slip the casting onto the bearing (while I also install the clutch disc anti-rattle spring clips) seating the bearing up against the snap ring. Once the casting has seated, then I can install the six set screws which effectively hold the casting to the bearing which is held to the collar which is secured to the crankshaft...etc.
I've pulled these clutches off and replaced them before without any issues. I don't know why I've been having such a problem this time around.
Thanks Guys!
Ryan Wilke
I really appreciate you guys helping me get this through my thick scull!
Nope, I did NOT use a punch and hammer to lock the collar to the bearing. It's coming to me now, I can NOW visualize how that would work.
I placed the pulley drive hub 1.25" deep on the crank. Then I snugged the hub set screw with blue (removable) loctite on its threads.
Then I slip the collar on, then slip on the bearing, then tap the collar in a CLOCKWISE rotation (while still facing the engine from the front, via the punch and mallet at the second hole in the collar), effectively locking the eccentric bore of the collar snugly to the eccentric on the bearing stub. This will permit the engine to continually try to tighten it further with the COUNTER-CLOCKWISE crank rotation. Once the collar is tapped snug, then I'll turn the entire collar & bearing "assembly" on the crank snout until the collar set screw is aligned with the crankshaft keyway and then snug the collar set screw down with some blue loctite on its threads.
Now, I can smear a bit of never-seize into the bearing seat in the clutch casting then slip the casting onto the bearing (while I also install the clutch disc anti-rattle spring clips) seating the bearing up against the snap ring. Once the casting has seated, then I can install the six set screws which effectively hold the casting to the bearing which is held to the collar which is secured to the crankshaft...etc.
I've pulled these clutches off and replaced them before without any issues. I don't know why I've been having such a problem this time around.
Thanks Guys!
Ryan Wilke
Ryan, Once you "lock" the collar to the bearing you can't (or shouldn't be able to) turn them on the crank. Thats the whole point of the eccentric lock, You have to make sure the set screw won't line up with the keyway before you lock it down.
Help needed!!!! I want to replace the fuel pump on my 1282 it's leaking gas from around the rubber gasket. do i have to replace the whole pump or just the gasket. how do i get in at it to remove it. remember u r talking to a female with little knowledge of tractor repair so give me step by step instructions. thanks
Dave R.,
-- Now I'm confused again.
I thought the collar set screw was supposed to seat down inside the crank keyway groove?
If the collar set screw does NOT need to seat inside the keyway groove, then fine, I follow your explanation. I'll just make sure when I start to snug the collar eccentric to the bearing that it is past the groove, that way it doesn't stop halfway over the groove. Then just tighten the collar set screw where ever it tightens up.
Thanks again, Dave!
(I'm kinda feeling really dumb today...)
Ryan Wilke
-- Now I'm confused again.
I thought the collar set screw was supposed to seat down inside the crank keyway groove?
If the collar set screw does NOT need to seat inside the keyway groove, then fine, I follow your explanation. I'll just make sure when I start to snug the collar eccentric to the bearing that it is past the groove, that way it doesn't stop halfway over the groove. Then just tighten the collar set screw where ever it tightens up.
Thanks again, Dave!
(I'm kinda feeling really dumb today...)
Ryan Wilke
Fellas,
By the way - I've got another question:
I've got a decent rear turf tire; but it sat flat for too long and the side wall has cracked to the point where I can poke my finger through the hole.
Has anyone had a tire repair shop remove such a tire from the rim, install a boot (grind the rubber around the hole and glue a 2"x 2" patch) inside, then put it back on the rim and install an inner tube for good measure?
Maybe the tire isn't worth the repair costs...?
Thoughts and/or opinions?
Ryan Wilke
By the way - I've got another question:
I've got a decent rear turf tire; but it sat flat for too long and the side wall has cracked to the point where I can poke my finger through the hole.
Has anyone had a tire repair shop remove such a tire from the rim, install a boot (grind the rubber around the hole and glue a 2"x 2" patch) inside, then put it back on the rim and install an inner tube for good measure?
Maybe the tire isn't worth the repair costs...?
Thoughts and/or opinions?
Ryan Wilke
Ryan,
I remember doing that when I was a kid with a bicycle tire that I wore through the cords with the old coaster brake. I took a piece of fabric and cemented it in over the hole. It still bulged a bit, but I got it to last a few more days. I doubt in your situation its worth the time and trouble, though a new 8.50x12 turf tire runs about $70. Even if you find someone willing to try to fix it, the tire is dry rotted, and the money would be better spent buying a new tire.
I remember doing that when I was a kid with a bicycle tire that I wore through the cords with the old coaster brake. I took a piece of fabric and cemented it in over the hole. It still bulged a bit, but I got it to last a few more days. I doubt in your situation its worth the time and trouble, though a new 8.50x12 turf tire runs about $70. Even if you find someone willing to try to fix it, the tire is dry rotted, and the money would be better spent buying a new tire.
