Archive through July 14, 2009

[bnolte]

Richard P.
Thanks for the encouraging words, I had a pretty rough time last fall and most of the winter, but I came out of it whole, and it looks like I'll be knocking around for at least a few more years

Joe T.
Regarding the steering gear, cleaning it up and rebuilding it is pretty straightforward,though a bit messy, but the FAQ on the website explains things pretty well.

You might also want to consider using Heim joints if you're replacing the tie rod and drag link ends. They are available from CC Specialties (see above), or from McMaster-Carr.

 

[aaytay]

John-
Nice find! Did it come with the "bar" screen? That's the one I'm missing. <font size="-2">...and I'm guessing the most useful?</font>

Do these help? Let me know if you need more measurements...

 

[mfisher]

John U. - Here's a couple of 59m pics that, for the most part, show the shroud. I remember having to fashion the support bolts as when I got the unit, they were missing. It's my favorite implement. Very therapeudic.

Ryan W. - It's a 149 with a 44" deck.

Richard B. - Yes, it is a trailer harness that does work short of actual brake lights - although I was thinking I would add them at some point.

 

[T-Mo]

I picked up a 125 yesterday from Junker John. He had a rebuilt K241 in it. Runs good, looks decent - has a new, non-original seat. I had my pick up decks, so I went with a 42 deck that's super quiet. I didn't have batteries for my camera, so no pictures. I was wanting to take some of the 125 and some of John's stuff (with his permission, of course), but alas - no batteries.

 

[rneubauer]

going to look at a roto-tiller today for one of my quietlines. Tiller is supposed to be in excellent shape, and includes the gearbox. Anyone have any pointers of what to look for, or make sure is included with the deal? I'm unfamiliar with these, but if the price is right I would like to purchase one. Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[tkiste]

My boy moved his 129 Monday and when he shut it off the Start/Gen kept turning the engine. We had to disconect the battery cable to get it to stop. With all the 4H projects going on I havn't had time to investigate. Anybody have any suggestion of were to start?

 

[lhinds]

Tim; That probally would be the voltage regulator or starter solenoid. It was a regulator on my 127.

 

[rpatton]

Rob N ,check that it turns over o.k. , and rock the tine unit back and forth to make sure its not loose in the carrier area. check tine cond. they should be about the same size all the way down , if less material is left at the bottom there is still a lot of life left but new tines are pricey.
If it has the long belt thats a definate + as they are around $80. new .

 

[whecht]

Tim
I just had the same proublem with my 102 . I dont know if you are having the same problem that I had but on my 102 the points was stuck on the voltage regulator clean them up real good and I havent had no problems something to look at

 

[kmcconaughey]

John U., nice find!

Bruce N.,

Joe T., welcome!

 

[mreed]

Thanks for the pics Kraig, hopefully I'll be posting pics of the finished tractor before long.

Rob D. Heres a pic of my exhaust on my 71. This has the original elbow coming off the engine as it came from the factory. I simply added a 1 1/2 inch plumbing pipe splice and another 3 inch piece of pipe. Add to that a 90deg elbow and another short piece of pipe pointing up. This muffler came from TSC and I think went to a Farmall cub. It just slides over top of the pipe and rests on the elbow. Tighten er down with a exhaust clamp and shes good to go.

 

[fcurrier]

Joe T: I hope you enjoy your 123 as much as this guy:

The 123 introduced the hydrostatic drive to the Cub Cadet line of garden tractors.
While I'm here:

and Don T: You could camp here:

Mowed here yesterday with the 125.

 

[dsacksteder]

Is my computer being stupid or is the parts look up down?

 

[vthomley]

Rob D, here's my 122 with a vertical muffler. The muffler and parts were all bought at Fleet Farm. This has the longest nipple Fleet Farm had coming out of the motor, then the 90 degree elbow and another shorter nipple vertically which the muffler is clamped onto. The hood rubs on the bottom of the muffler when you open it but it seems to work fine. I've had this on for 2 or 3 years now.

Here is my dad's 70 with a muffler, looks to be set up much like Michael Reed's 71.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dustin, I believe it is broken. Perhaps they are doing system maintenance. If it isn't back online in 24 hours we can start to bug Charlie.

What did you need to look up? Perhaps I can find the info in my archives.

Without some kind of bracing on those vertical mount mufflers I'd be worried about stressing the block.

 

[dsacksteder]

Kraig: Heres is the part number. Its for a seat cover 407394R1. I wondering what model seat it fits.THanks,Dustin

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - I agree on You with the stress added to the exhaust port on the block. When You look closely at a bare block there isn't much metal holding that corner of the block onto the rest of the engine. Kohler did that for a reason, to keep heat from transfering back to the engine.

An upright exhaust is not an option for Me, WAY too many trees to trim around and mow under. Thats why I routed my straight pipe horizontally in front of the engine and had it exit right above the pulley on the S/G on the 72.
Wife used to complain about how noisy the 72 was but I mowed with it last Saturday and She must be getting used to it....no complaints.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dustin, ah, no can help with that, I thought you might have needed an exploded view of an attachment or something like that.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I prefer to leave the muffler in it's stock location. Less chance of breaking something or burning myself and it looks better if left stock IMO. Also, like Denny, I have way too many trees with low branches.

 

[fsnerd]

my 128 stalling problem.

Richard Palmer (Rpalmer) -
is what an exhaust leak? what do you see that i do not?
yes, it is a Walbro carburetor. that is the only one they had listed. since the Kohler part number refers you to the Walbro number, i have to assume Kohler no longer makes a carb for it.

Keith LeJeune (Klejeune)-
remove fuel line and let drain into a container and removing fuel shut off to check for obstructions has not been done yet, hopefully tomorrow.

most parts were changed one at a time. the coil was changed because one of the studs were broken off and the wire soldered to it.
hot tank, valves reseated, gaskets, points and condenser were done at the same time because i had to take the engine out to get the blower housing off to get at the mouse nest.

i realize it could be a bad, new part, which is why after i check everybody's suggestions, i will try rechecking new parts and timing, carb settings, etc.
it is always possible something i adjusted changed the carb adjustment, or i didnt set the carb to the right spec, etc.

Ron R. Schmitt (Rrschmitt)
yes, i am aware the carb settings are the starting point, the manual does not give exact settings, as every engine is a little different.

as always, thanks everyone.