• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

So a friend sent me a text..

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jstorma

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 21, 2004
Messages
392
displayname
Jim Storma
At the beginning of this month I received a text at work with this picture.
image0.jpeg

He asked me if I'd be interested in a 1282. I said sure! Tell me a bit about it and what they want for it. He said he'd get back to me a little later.

He text me later and said it's from an estate that the family was cleaning up. No one wanted it and if I want it, I need to come get it. It's as is and nothing is known about it or how long it sat. They just asked that it be restored and used. I told them I think I can handle that. So my friend helped me load it up after I got my brothers trailer and hauled it home. They found the side panels in a shed, the owners manual along with two repair manuals and they went with. Couldn't find the mower deck for it though.
image1.jpeg


Past few weeks I've been playing around with it and looking it over here and there. The battery was marked 2018 and figured it was shot, but decided to pull it and put the trickle charger on it. It showed it had a bit of charge in it so I left it sit for a week. Engine had oil in it and turned over by hand. The trans had oil in it but was barely touching the dip stick. Found out it had a broken brake caliper mount. Tires were all flat. Side walls on the rears are cracked pretty bad. Fronts not as bad. Put air in them to the proper PSI and shockingly they are still holding a few weeks later.

Thought I'd put the battery back in and see if it would turn over. Solenoid clicked and nothing more. Changed out the B&S solenoid with a good used CC and tried again. This time it turned right over. Sprayed a little starting fluid in the carb to see if it would pop off and nothing. Checked the spark plug, no spark. Checked for voltage at the coil and there was voltage. Pulled off the point cover and found the points were black. A little sand paper and we had spark. Put it all back together and tried again with a little starting fluid and it popped off. Next thing I did was drain the old gas out of the system and removed the float bowl. Some built up crud in there and cleaned it out with carb/choke cleaner. Needle was stuck so I removed the float and pulled the needle out. Had to clean that up too. Put the needle and float back in. Put fresh fuel in the tank removed the fuel line to the carburetor and cranked it over. The fuel pump was pumping and I let it pump until I thought the old fuel was out. Re-installed the fuel line and cranked it over for a bit and pop! pop! pop! it was running on it's own. charge indicator showed it was charging the battery. Even after a few weeks the battery was still holding a charge.

During this time, I bought a replacement caliper mount and added fluid to the transmission.

Today I replaced the broken caliper mount and got it running and moved it around the hydro seemed a bit jerky. The PTO did not engage with the switch and the lights did not go on with the custom installed switch I thought was for the lights. PTO coil and lights do work after using a jumper wire to the PTO electrical plug an to one of the terminals on the lights.

Began the start of the cleaning process today as well. Spraying down and removing oil and grime. After removing the tunnel cover and the gear shift handle cover I cleaned the hydro as best I could with the garden hose. After cleaning and restarting I found the right had side check valve was leaking, hench that is why the fluid was low. It's hard to see in the picture but there is definitely something not right about the trunion. No springs and a big glob of weld.
There are quite a few customizations to this cub. There is an interesting terminal block behind the gas tank with a lot of electrical connections, a under hood horn, custom foot treads, and a nice beefy hitch on the back.

Looks like I'm going to need a lot of parts! :yikes:
 

Attachments

  • image7.jpeg
    image7.jpeg
    146.9 KB · Views: 0
  • image6.jpeg
    image6.jpeg
    128.3 KB · Views: 0
  • image5.jpeg
    image5.jpeg
    133 KB · Views: 0
  • image4.jpeg
    image4.jpeg
    126.8 KB · Views: 0
  • image3.jpeg
    image3.jpeg
    150 KB · Views: 0
  • image2.jpeg
    image2.jpeg
    141.1 KB · Views: 0
  • image1.jpeg
    image1.jpeg
    108 KB · Views: 0
  • image0.jpeg
    image0.jpeg
    32.4 KB · Views: 0
This is my first aluminum transmission cub. I had a really hard time turning the handle to check the trans fluid. I actually had to use a channel locks. Is this typical? Also, I see a replacement wire harness is not available from anyone. I'm thinking it would be best to to get the lower serial numbered wiring harness for a 782 along with the older PTO switch. Looks like everything else should be the same...

This 12 horse does need an overhaul and was thinking about keeping an eye out for a magnum engine or a command engine. My plans are to use a 450 thrower on this, but not sure if the 12 could handle it decent. Anyone use a 1282 and a 450 thrower? How is the combination?
 
Here is my 1282, purchased in mid-Dec 2022. Mine had a myriad of little issues, and all that remains is a cosmetic restoration this spring. I would rebuild the original K301, as they are a stout piece, and very, very simple. Just make sure to use OEM Kohler points and condenser, as the aftermarket units are off enough to affect timing even if the gap is set to spec. Same with the carb. Resist the temptation of a pretty shiny Chyna carb. Rebuild the original using a Kohler kit, and check the throttle shaft for play, and bush it as necessary.


153238-1282hood.jpg
 
This is my first aluminum transmission cub. I had a really hard time turning the handle to check the trans fluid. I actually had to use a channel locks. Is this typical? Also, I see a replacement wire harness is not available from anyone. I'm thinking it would be best to to get the lower serial numbered wiring harness for a 782 along with the older PTO switch. Looks like everything else should be the same...
The trans dipstick can be stiff if not removed much. All of mine remove and install effortlessly.

As for the harness, keep an eye out for a good used one from a tractor with points(battery) ignition. A 682/782 harness should work if from the erial number range of your tractor. The starters are on opposite sides of the tractor though.
 
Been tearing it down a bit when the weather is reasonable. Looks like I should just find a hydro replacement pump. Here is the modification to the Trunion. Also, the input shaft is wallowed out. The drive shaft was whipping. I think someone made a drive shaft and didn't keep the coupling holes in line. The misalignment must be to blame for the wallowed out input shaft and coupling. I haven't looked but I'm sure a replacement input shaft and seal kit will cost more than a good used hydro unit.
image3.jpeg


image4.jpeg
image5.jpeg
image1.jpeg
 
image0.jpeg


Has a tac/hour meter haven't tried to get it to work. Cub Cadet hour meter works and shows 2059hrs.
 
If the key wasn't left on, that's quite a few hours on the tractor, but I've seen Cubs of that vintage with much more showing and still going strong! I see that it has the "INTERNATIONAL" script dash. My 1282 also came with the same dash, but mine is a fairly early CCC build with the cast iron transaxle, open front grille, red dash tower, front axle, and implement handle (serial number 705938).
 
f the key wasn't left on, that's quite a few hours on the tractor, but I've seen Cubs of that vintage with much more showing and still going strong! I see that it has the "INTERNATIONAL" script dash. My 1282 also came with the same dash, but mine is a fairly early CCC build with the cast iron transaxle, open front grille, red dash tower, front axle, and implement handle (serial number 705938).
I saw your postings. That is very nice tractor. Keep it in good shape.
 
Working at it this week stripping it down more. Here's a more up close view of the wiring.

image1.jpeg


Did find a NOS wire harness and it's on it's way. Hopefully it is the correct one.

I thought the hard part was going to be removing the lift handle from the rock shaft and removing the rock shaft. I have been putting penetrating oil on the coiled pin that holds the handle to rock shaft every now and then. Couldn't budge it with a hammer and pin punch. Tried using my air hammer and that was no use either. Bought two 5/16" cobalt drill bits and used my lower speed higher HP hand drill to drill it out. Got about 1/4" way through when the bit stopped cutting and started to squeal. At this point used a 5/16" pin punch and surprisingly the pin started to move and then came out easily.

Remove the ratchet part bolted to the frame with two bolts; I tried to work the handle back and forth from the rockshaft. I ended up putting the ratchet part back on with one bolt and swinging it to the front of the tractor to catch the rockshaft so I could move the handle over the rockshaft a greater distance. Surprisingly again the lift handle started to move and after a bit of back and forth it started to get loose and as I was turning it I pulled it off the rockshaft. I thought for sure it was going to be rusted tight to the rockshaft, but it was not. 😲 There were two spring pins in the rock arm assembly (I believe these should be coiled pins). I punched those out easily with a roll pin punch and used a rod on the clutch/brake side and started to drive the rock shaft out. To my surprise that was not rusted in as well and after removal it all looked really good. I almost wonder if it was replaced at some point....

image0.jpeg


I do have a couple questions maybe someone out there knows the answer to.

1. Since this one has a black front axle, black transmission, black dash pedestal; were the fender support/battery pan painted black as well? After power washing some paint peeled off and it appears where the paint peeled off it is black under the red paint.

2. In the below picture, you can see the black circle where the lift handle stop cam sits. It has been drilled out. In a previous picture you can see were a home made piece was bolted in. After looking at my 782, I was wondering if this part was pressed into the frame at the factory. I don't see any signs of welding. Anyone know?

image2.jpg



I also hit it hard with the power washer to remove most of the grime and grease. It cleaned up well. After it dried; noticed there were still some hard to reach spots that still need cleaning. I'll get that after more is taken apart. Father in-law has the fender and has welded up the custom holes and can't wait to see it.
 
That has to be one of the worst wiring hack jobs I have ever seen. That is a rats nest of those rotten crimp connectors and poor components. Glad you located an NOS harness.

As for the black on CCC models. The battery tray, front axle, rear transaxle, and dash tower were black on later models. My 1282 is an early 1982 build, so it's built exactly like an IH model, with red cast iron rear, red battery tray, dash tower and front axle.

The threaded insert for the height knob cam looks to be pressed with an additional reinforcement welded in on the back side on the 1210 I just drilled out and repaired.
 
Working at it this week stripping it down more. Here's a more up close view of the wiring.

View attachment 153669

Did find a NOS wire harness and it's on it's way. Hopefully it is the correct one.

I thought the hard part was going to be removing the lift handle from the rock shaft and removing the rock shaft. I have been putting penetrating oil on the coiled pin that holds the handle to rock shaft every now and then. Couldn't budge it with a hammer and pin punch. Tried using my air hammer and that was no use either. Bought two 5/16" cobalt drill bits and used my lower speed higher HP hand drill to drill it out. Got about 1/4" way through when the bit stopped cutting and started to squeal. At this point used a 5/16" pin punch and surprisingly the pin started to move and then came out easily.

Remove the ratchet part bolted to the frame with two bolts; I tried to work the handle back and forth from the rockshaft. I ended up putting the ratchet part back on with one bolt and swinging it to the front of the tractor to catch the rockshaft so I could move the handle over the rockshaft a greater distance. Surprisingly again the lift handle started to move and after a bit of back and forth it started to get loose and as I was turning it I pulled it off the rockshaft. I thought for sure it was going to be rusted tight to the rockshaft, but it was not. 😲 There were two spring pins in the rock arm assembly (I believe these should be coiled pins). I punched those out easily with a roll pin punch and used a rod on the clutch/brake side and started to drive the rock shaft out. To my surprise that was not rusted in as well and after removal it all looked really good. I almost wonder if it was replaced at some point....

View attachment 153670

I do have a couple questions maybe someone out there knows the answer to.

1. Since this one has a black front axle, black transmission, black dash pedestal; were the fender support/battery pan painted black as well? After power washing some paint peeled off and it appears where the paint peeled off it is black under the red paint.

2. In the below picture, you can see the black circle where the lift handle stop cam sits. It has been drilled out. In a previous picture you can see were a home made piece was bolted in. After looking at my 782, I was wondering if this part was pressed into the frame at the factory. I don't see any signs of welding. Anyone know?

View attachment 153671


I also hit it hard with the power washer to remove most of the grime and grease. It cleaned up well. After it dried; noticed there were still some hard to reach spots that still need cleaning. I'll get that after more is taken apart. Father in-law has the fender and has welded up the custom holes and can't wait to see it.
One word describes that wiring harness - yeesh
 
I just got the wiring harness. It is not the correct one. :bash: I have no idea what it is for. Way too many connections and a few different types of plug ends. Hopefully I can get a refund on this. Back to searching.
 
Did you purchase a 725-3081 harness? I believe that is the right one for your serial number range. If you supply pics, maybe we can figure out what the extra connection are for.
 
Now granted, I have an AM/FM/cassette deck on my #72, and a total of seven taillights, 2 amber, 4 red, and a separately switched white work light, but NO WHERE do I have a wiring mess like JIM HAS. Jim will get it fixed.
I've never had a working hour meter on a CC registering 2000 hours, but I bet our old 70 has that many hours, maybe more. My 72 had 1472 hrs on the old K241, and the K321 has about 150.
 
Back
Top