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Archive through May 05, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Sean C.

The Aluminum friction disc is good if you are going to use your cub as a puller, not so good for every day use.
BTDT.
 
I got tired of dropping hooks, snatch blocks, and other tools when we go down to the creek bed where we are building a little camp site. One ammo can and some bolt and that won't happen again. Gonna paint it Cub yellow later this week.
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Can anyone out there realate to what this bronze wear button has done to my pto.? It ruined 2 thrust buttons ,I forgot the first round of making sure it was totally disengaging. That melted the thurust button like when you start a survival fire with a bow and stick.. PUT NEW ONE ON, ..NOW THE BRONZE BUTTON WITH THE MELTED STEEL ON IT MESSED UP THE SECOND THRUST BUTTON!
 
Wayne...Not sure what your getting at. You just venting steam or blaming the bronze button for problems ? It sounds to me like...for lack of better words..operator error. Don't get me wrong, I've made plenty of mistakes myself. Sounds as if the button should have been cleaned of contamination..sanded,filed,ground..or whatever.
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As much as my wife is on and off with the pto I like those bronze buttons. She'd have a fiber button wore out in a year.
 
Ron, if it has IH on it it cant be wrong!!! LOL. Synthetic oils are a polymer based product. Polymer is a fancy word for plastic, actualy. Synthetics are made of a plastic, nylon base. In reality it is like overgrown baby oil, which is a synthetic polymer. Mobil came up with the first synthetic oil back in the 40's, during the war, for planes and ships. Planes and ships burn so much oil that it was more cost effective to create a synthetic oil for these big oil guzzlers. That is why Mobils synthetic brand is called " Mobil 1". Cuzz they were the first ones to create a synthetic. However, the oil was too thick to use in common gasoline or diesel engines and they didnt have the technology to thin them down. Even now, Mobil was the first to come up with a synthetic thin enough for every day vehicles.But,my fellow cubbieaholics,Mobil still goes cheap on putting crude in the quarts. At the same time, Mobil is my second choice in favorite, all about oils.
Synthetics, again are a plastic based product. The molecules in it are very tiny, like liquid ball bearings. Remember the comercials when synthetics first came out? " Just like liquid ball bearings". Problem is, theyre so tiny they leak through cork gasket. Newer cars dont use cork too much any more.But if you put synthetics in an older car, it will leak bad. I also would not put synthetic in your old cubs. Especially with cork gaskets. Also stay away from engine treatments. Such as ones that "coat" the engine and "fill" worn parts. All it is, is teflon crap that will ruin your engine. DO NOT PUT IT IN YOUR CUBS!!!!! THese are old, bad A#$ engines. Made of the old style cast iron. New cast iron is somewhat of a different mix of metal. Stay with regular oil. Especially in your cubz. Only my suggestion...Love yall, peace to every body. Charlie, ur da man, Kraig, ur awsome too. Later dudes
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Brendan I like it! Did IH contribute to the war effort? It doesn't matter. But yes get some Cub paint on it.
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IH made the "half track" trucks during the war. You know, the trucks with the tank tracks in the rear and tires in the front. Those were all good ole International Harvester!!
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Richard P: Ever been to a gun show and seen an International Harvester made M-1 Rifle?? Yep, IH made gazillions of them during WWII....Wish I owned one..just cant afford one these days.

Myron B
 
Wayne:
Bronze material friction melting steel?? Not sure about that, but the real issue here is that the PTO clutch isn't releasing - did this all happen when there was a belt on the PTO? It took me a while to learn this, but the only time there SHOULD be rotational friction is during the "coast down" after you have disengaged the PTO. If the clutch assembly is dragging at all, it will keep rotating and if you don't have something belted up to the PTO, it'll take the button out pretty quick. After some problems with this, I always engage the PTO after starting, when I'm running "beltless".

As a second thought, note Dennis Frisk's last comment on this thread about making a button..
 
Half tracks, Heavy & Light trucks, tracked military artillery tows, const equipment for use by CBs, track-type tractors (for everything), M1 rifles, torpedos, gun carriges, and I-series tractors converted to aircraft tows.......to name a few more items.

Had an IH M1, National Match, all matching parts, in my hands about 10 years ago.....$800 was too steep at the time....hindsight is 20/20........
 
Mike F., nice photos, they remind me of this brochure shot.

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Tom R., the roller and gauge wheels are only used if cutting from 1" to 2.5" high (most "experts" say cut no shorter then 3") and are really not designed to ride on the ground all the time. (Though I think most people use them that way)

THIS might be helpful for adjusting your deck.
 
Tim T., I switched to Valvoline back in the early 1980's when I had a 1980 Mercury Capri Turbo RS, been using it ever since. In my Cub Cadets I've been using, umm, JD "Torq-Gard" 30 weight for the past several years. My brother is the parts manager at a JD dealer (black sheep of the family).
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Wyatt, any updates on my old Capri?
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Ah Steve, How did you get your sticky fingers off of that M-1? met a fellow that ordered a compleat case box of the M-1,s from CMP and got TWO of them. They had been reworked but were in good shape. He sold the others but kept the two. I at least got to touch one.
 
STEVE B. - I thought You bought that IH M1 for Steve III? I did a search on IH M1's and found this:
http://www.geocities.com/lazarus401/m1garand.html

Just over 537,000 totally made by IHC from purchased parts.

I think it was Jim Becker or maybe Hank Will who wrote up a nice article in RPM several yrs ago about them.
 
The old oil opinion/debate--

I rebuilt my k301(1250) 16 years ago and at that time started using Mobil 1. About two years ago I pulled the engine out to do the engine cradle mod.-- procceded to pull the oil pan just to check things out. No sludge just clean shinny aluminum. By the way I use about a 1/2 of qt. of oil all summer mowing.
 
I wonder how long before Charlie gently nudges us back On-Topic?
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Matt, Scott, heat shrink tubing is great for many projects. I used some, and posted about it, on refurbishing some wire clips for my Original and 125 refurbs, I may have even mentioned I was thinking of using it on the PTO engagement handle.

Brendan, nice tool/gear box!
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HEAT SHRINK Oops, I did mention that I was planning on using the Plasti-Dip stuff, not heat shrink on the PTO handle... I did use heat shrink for the wire clips but I've not done anything to the PTO engagement handle yet.
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