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Archive through September 01, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Bruce Nolte

You should be able to take your pressure plate to a machine shop, along with the shaft to have them bore, and bush it. I would make sure the shaft is not worn in that area, I'm not sure what the best bushing material would be in this case, bronze (oilite) or cast iron. It's also small enough you could mail it to someone for the work to be done. By the way cast iron is one of the best bushing materials available, however oilite may be better in this case.
 
TILLER QUESTION: I have a 1A tiller. I used to use it with a 1450, but I sold that tractor (not much on hydros) and now am looking for a gear drive to use with the tiller. I have a creeper to install on it when I get it, as well as a hydro lift. I was wondering is there a minimum HP that is recommended to run a tiller? I like the 7x's and the 100's. Would these work?
 
5/8 is merely the diameter of a stock shaft, and a 36 inch length is conveniently enough to make 2 shafts.

As for tools, I'm afraid my quality Harbor Freight 4 1/2 inch angle grinder sacrificed its life today grinding off the heads of the screws holding the footrests and the seat pan to the frame of my 1650 parts tractor. Suddenly dropped from full speed to about 1/3 speed in an instant. It might just need brushes, but I've had it for 15 years of semi regular use.

The main thing the engine lathe needs is a sturdy table to sit it on, and a way to lift it. I've had it for several years, and I now have an engine hoist to lift it with. The thing has to weigh at least 300 lbs, 2 stocky guys could barely lift it.

Clint,
The shaft is brand new, with less than an hour of run time on it, although it is homemade. I'm thinking an oilite bushing would probably be best, as the pressure plate has to slide back and forth a bit on the shaft, and that area is difficult to lubricate.
 
Bruce Nolte,

I'm not a big fan of facing off or boring out used pressure plates. They are barely thick enough when new.
I really like the billet steel units from Midwest Super Cub. One piece design and thicker where it counts for optimal and even engagement.
Thinner plates will "bow" and the outer fringes will do very little to maintain pressure.


Here's a picture of my overkill clutch set-up on my 108 plow tractor.While I went all out on this one, you can see the pressure plates that I'm talking about.
They are totally worth the money. This one has a full Midwest set up with billet alum 6 pin driver,billet steel pressure plates,reenforced throwout arm, kevlar friction disk and red spring.


168990.jpg
 
Jim i wouldnt try anything under 12 hp, a 10 horse or lower would be working very hard and would not like hard soil. heres a pic of my 12hp hooked to a 2a tiller tractor is a 1200 with a creeper which is a must
169001.jpg
 
Jeff: NOPE!! A creeper is a must only with a gear drive....with a Hydro you automatically get infinitely slow ground speed as required...The only way to use a tiller !!! BTDT!! You need to trade that 1200 in on a 129, 149, 169,1250,1450, or 1650
bazooka.gif


Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
I have a question about my 982 cub cadet. Whenever I operate it on a slope to the right the engine stops but when I operate it on a left slope no problem. Maybe one of you CUB CADET experts could shed some light as to what may cause this thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Tony D , just a thought but i would check the float level and see if its set right. later Don T
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
David W., does the QA42A drive-shaft slide easily on the splined joint? It could be binding in there if the grease is old and dried up or if it's rusty. Did you grease all the zerks on the drive-shaft U-joints, spline and the two zerks for the needle bearings on each side of where the chain sprocket is?
 
RICK B. - MWSC makes some NICE stff don't they? When I rebuilt a K321 for My 72 I called Julian and told Him what I was doing and all He said was "I'll SEND You what You NEED!" Parts were here the next day! The old OEM clutch would slip with my tired old K241 under a hard pull but I've NEVER felt the clutch slip a bit with the K321.

MATT G. - You BEAT ME! I was going to give Tont the same advice!
 
I agree Myron hydro is the best way to run tillers, blowers, plows, and sickle cutters but Jim doesnt seem to like hydros.
 
Jeff B.
what are you looking for in a hydro? Wide frame or Narrow frame?
I haven't been to the gear drive side of Cubs yet, well at least not owned a running example.
I did own a 1200, but bought it sight unseen. I thought since I already owmed a Q\L 1450, I could use all of my implements with it.
When it arrived, it wasn't going to be cost effective to repair everything that was broken.
(broken rod in motor, broken shift forks in trannie, clucth rusted together with the drive shaft and almost every bolt on the tractor.)
I still would like to own a 1200 for plowing.
At least now I have a pretty good supply of 1200,or Q\L parts.
Did your 1200 originally have a creeper in it?
The one I had had a tunnel cover cut for a creeper but no creeper in it.
Brad
 
Jeff,
I might take you up on trading for one of your gear drives with my nurtured 125 (K241 in it).
 
Brad and Terry I prefer wide frames 12 horse or more I dont know what type of trade i would need right now, as time is not on my side at the moment. Brad i believe my 1200 came with creeper my 128 didnot but also has the cutout for a creeper and I was told the gear drives came with the cutout regardless if it came from the factory with or without the creeper. a side note i just found a 129 and 108 in a farm field and the guy said he would think about getting rid of them.
 
10:4 charlie.... So was I told correctly that the gear drives came with the notched out tunnel for the creeper even though it was not installed at the factory?
 
Jeff,
On my narrow frames, all my gear drives has the notch for the creeper gear, as well as the hole for the breather. And none of mine have the creeper gear option on them. I have two 104s and a 122.
 
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