Archive through June 25, 2014

[jchamberlin]

Reposting as an antidote to the Archive Bug's bite:

Jeff, it definitely looks good, that's for sure. How does your arm feel?

Gerry, I have to issue an apology of sorts to you, regarding the capacitance value not being important for ignition condensers. I ran across an interesting write-up in the Kohler service manual concerning the metal transferred as points wear and its relationship to the condenser's capacitance value. I either didn't know, or had forgotten, how to "read" a set of points. For everyone's benefit, the graphic from the Service Manual says it all:

If you don't remember, at one time I proposed using an automotive condenser in place of a standard Cub Cadet condenser. You took exception stating that the capacitance value matters, as indeed it appears. I would still maintain that the motor will RUN with an automotive condenser, but I will no longer recommend it as a permanent repair, only a temporary fix or trouble-shooting technique. I've had an automotive condensor (sp) in my 149 for over two years, I'll have to check and see how the points are worn and report back. In the meantime, you can enjoy the satisfaction of not only being right, but being acknowledged as such.

Now, to the reason I logged on to post, I have a not-so-quick question:

What would it take to convert a Model 122 gear drive into a Model 123 hydrostatic drive?

The question assumes the task can be done. I already have the hydrostatic axle and transmission from a Model 1250, I'm not sure how much of the drive line I have, and of course the linkage does not include the metal tower as found on the 122/123 models. The Quiet Line has a gear-shift type knob mounted to the right of the steering column, where the throttle is located on the 122. But if memory serves, the actual control linkage on the hydrostatic transmission is on the left (both left and right references assume that one is sitting in the driver's seat).

Any thoughts on the contemplated conversion? Has anyone done this before?

(I sure some smart fellow will chime in to say that what is needed to turn a 122 into a 123 is another 123.

)

 

[dfrisk]

JEREMIAH - Converting a 122 into a 123? That question is like all the young ambitious kids on Ford truck forums who want to convert their pickups to 4 WD from 2 WD. It's easier & cheaper to trade for what you want than it is to "convert".

The hydro rearend from the Q/L You have will work, but you need a whole different frame & steering pedistal than what you already have to install it in.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - hmm, thanks for the info on the condenser and metal transfer on the point contacts. I never really looked for that, but in the old days when I was working these units I'd file the points if they looked burn't. I never really looked for metal transfer which really appears dramatic in the Kohler sketches.

Now, about your question on converting a 122 into a 123 using part of a 1250. If you truly intend to make it a 123 then yes, you need another 123. If it's your intension to make the 122 into a hydro, then you still need either a 123 or 105/125 or 107/127/147. I'm basically agreeing with Dennis - you need so many parts (that you can't use from a 1250) you're better off getting a complete narrow frame hydro tractor less the rearend and hydro pump, and engine, basically a roller.

 

[jbaker]

Well another long night at work, maybe Ill have time to work on this.

 

[jchamberlin]

Dennis, Harry: Thank you for the feedback. I think I'll shelve the project plans. (Harry, I thought that you, of all people, would be gung-ho to convert a gear drive to a hydro

.)

Harry: Reflecting on the information given in the Kohler manual, under-capacitance (buildup on the movable contact) would indicate a failing condenser; while over-capacitance (buildup on the stationary contact) would indicate an incorrect condenser had been installed. In Toto checking where the buildup is occurring is just one clue to pick up during a tune-up or troubleshooting session. It is easier, to me, to check where the pitting occurs, rather than the buildup. I have seen some badly pitted points in my time, more usually on automobiles than on Cub Cadets.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - you stated " (Harry, I thought that you, of all people, would be gung-ho to convert a gear drive to a hydro .)"
Hmmm, not me. I wouldn't have bought the 122 in the first place

 

[bganter]

I'm finally getting back to the 1450.
I replaced the PTO clutch coil with one from one of our sponsors.
I'm reassembling it and I have almost ¼ inch of shaft beyond the clutch. This allows the clutch and pulley to float in and out on the engine shaft.
I know that's not right, but I'm not sure what's wrong. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[digger]

Brian G.
Did ya remember to put the spacer back in, and or are you sure you don't have a silver color PTO?
By the looks of the rotor, you might just have a Ogura setup, rather than a Warner.

If that's the case, the field coils do not interchange.

 

[bganter]

Thanks Charlie.
No there's no spacer on the shaft, and I don't have any parts left in the coffee can. I'll look in the garage again. At least I know what I'm looking for.
It's defiantly a black Warner clutch. The P.O. put anti-seize on all of the bolts and the engine shaft. Not the clutch faces. The silver is partly the camera flash and a little anti-seize.

 

[digger]

Brian G.
The spacer might be stuck in the old assembly.

Click the Parts Lookup at the top of the page. Enter 1450 for the model number, click select assembly. Then scroll down to the 3 PTO's listed and click the black Warner clutch and it will show you a pic of everything that's supposed to be there.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jeremiah C. If you can figure out how to get it to you then I have a 123 chassis with the hydro rearend that I'll give to you if you want to go that route. We can put it on the Cub Cadet Transportation network and it may take some time only it'll arrive to you.

 

[dfrisk]

Seems like EVERYBODY except Jeremiah has a 123 parts chassis sitting around.

 

[jbaker]

Not me,, but I do have a 149 parts chassis

 

[bjamison]

While the IH fleet is out of action waiting on repairs, picked up this to wrap my iPhone (from TSC on clearance) to give more meaning to snapping the next IH pic....

 

[bganter]

Charlie.
Thanks for the help. Knowing what I was looking for I crawled around the edges of the garage for a while. As a last resort I looked in the snow blower mechanism. That's where it's been for months.
Now I'll have it together and be mowing by the weekend.

 

[jbaker]

sponsers are good, cub cadets are great

 

[jbaker]

Worked late last night and had time to alter my mower cub rockshaft fork.
It was worn bad along with the shaft. So I moved the fork to the other side and should get another couple of years out of it.

Its not better than new but it should work and I dont have to mess with the rockshaft

 

[tstewart]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Tuesday, June 24, 2014 - 08:16 am:

Tristan, I believe the 14hp in your 1450 used a larger carb than the 12hp in the 129. I would think your mechanic friend would have a set of taps and he should be able to repair the carb. Probably a good idea to get a carb rebuild kit and clean and rebuild it at the same time. Actually, now that I think about it, the rebuild kit should have a replacement throttle shaft that is already drilled and tapped.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Hey thanks for the heads up Kraig. Yeah I probably should do a full carb rebuild anyhow, it sat for about a year or so and hasnt acted quite right since. Still need to get a new screw for the hydro control lever that thing wont stay tight and its a pain mowing for hours having to hold the handle the whole way.

So I looked on ccspecialties and I do see the carb throttle shaft repair kit. Kind of pricey! But I suppose the ol gal is worth keeping running. Does this also include the regular 'rebuild' kit? I did rebuild a carb for a corolla when I was in college, was a long time ago but I should be able to tackle a simple tractor carb.

IH - Throttle shaft Repair Kit PN/Kohler # 25 757 16-S
Includes throttle shaft, throttle shaft bushing, installation tool, bowl gasket, bowl baffle gasket, bowl retainer gasket, #2-56 screw, 3 #3-48 screws, and loctite.

 

[jchamberlin]

Tristan: You can also get just the throttle shaft bushing Throttle shaft Bushing W/ Butterfly screws PN/ KH-25-158-02-S or 25 1587 02S which only costs about 1/5 of what the kit costs. The kit includes the gaskets you'll need to put the carb back together, and it also includes the entire throttle shaft itself. Since you're having problems with the shaft, the kit would probably be a good investment: you kill two birds with one stone (air leak at the bushing and linkage to the shaft --the locktite is for keeping the linkage attached to the shaft, if I recall correctly). If your throttle were solid, you could save money by just buying the bushing.

Dennis, yes, it seems others always have the parts I need; but then, I usually have the money they want, so it all works out.

Marlin, I would love to take a road trip to Iowa, but it is SO far away from where I live.

All: I'm still mulling over the possibilities of conversion options. I'm trying to meet the needs of a client who HAS a 122 but WANTS a hydrostatic transmission. My interest is in the parts on his 122 that I want for my 122, namely the rear hitch with spring assist, good (but hard) seat, steering wheel emblem, etc. I still fail to see why a mechanism couldn't be fashioned, or an existing IHCC shifting mechanism couldn't be modified, to accomplish the simple task of positioning the swash plate. But then again, I'm not considering what Dennis mentioned earlier, the braking action from the pedal which also shifts the transmission into neutral. The other option, of course, is to just buy another tractor with the hydrostatic and use it to mow with. Finally, I will note in passing what Art Aytay shared with me a few weeks ago, at least the hydrostatic transmission will fit inside the 122's "high tunnel" frame.

Edit: Pretty neat idea, shifting the forks to the other side of flat bar, that way you're able to move out of the worn spot on the rock shaft. I'm sure you'll remember to keep some grease on it.

 

[jhillegass]

Jeff B.

Great idea on the rock shaft/deck hanger fix. Very easy to do and eliminate 30+ years of wear.

Jerry