I have a question about a bearing and collar that I'm trying to put on a 149 S/N below 480xxx. The collar is P/N IH=60071 and yes I have been all over the FAQ and I guess it Charlie's FAQ on how to install.How does it lock when rotated? When I mate them together thy just spin and I don't see how they would tighten up or lock. Maybe this style doesn't lock. If that's the case, do I tighten the set screw to the shaft in the key groove? Kind of stumped on this. I searched the archives and didn't see anything that pertains to this. I would appreciate any help on this. Thanks.
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Archive through July 29, 2007
- Thread starter syost
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Steve Y.
If it spins 360 degrees around, junk it!
The inside of the locking collar is kinda egg shaped to tighten when turned.
Tighten it to the shaft, not in the groove.
http://cubfaq.com/bearingcollar.html
If it spins 360 degrees around, junk it!
The inside of the locking collar is kinda egg shaped to tighten when turned.
Tighten it to the shaft, not in the groove.
http://cubfaq.com/bearingcollar.html
Thanks Charlie. I notice the egg shape on the old one and it's one the new one too. I sat out in the barn and laughed my butt off when I realized it has to be on the shaft to make the off set function. That's a good bit of info to share with me! I had both pieces in my hands trying to figure it out. I know you guys try to make this site idiot proof and guys like me keep testing ya.
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- Brian Branstetter
Ok, here we go. Another 'look at what I did post'
. No, seriously, take a look and see if this is done right. This is a budget job and I have purchased a used drive line and replaced all the roll pins, springs and clutch disc, it already had a fairly new bearing. Also resurfaced the plates in the lathe at work, just a skim nothing deep.
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I also took the time to press a new bushing in the pin driver plate.
This one is pretty well rusted up but not as bad as the one in my tratctor.
This one is pretty well rusted up but not as bad as the one in my tratctor.
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- Brian Branstetter
Nothing special, just a little preventative paint till I get a chance to do a full tear down.
Hi all,
Been a while since I posted. Wife is keeping me busy with a kitchen remodel...
Anyway, a 147 followed me home about a month ago. This is my first experience with a hydro. So far I like it. I have a feeling though I may have caused myself some grief.
I noticed the engine smoking a bit from the vent hole (?) behind the air cleaner under the carb. I decided to run a bit of MMO in the gas tank. Today when I mowed the lawn it lost power after about an hour of mowing. The smoke started to get heavier, especially under heavy loads (uphill driving, long grass). I then saw that the muffler was cherry red. My first thought is a sticky exhaust valve. However, I also noticed that the carb adjustment screws were pretty far out of what Kohler recommends. Readjusting to the original 1-1/2 turns and then adjusting didn't fix the problem. The muffler is still red. Am I looking at something more serious here? Also, I'm unsure what the difference is between the Kohler carb and the Walbro carb. Anybody have any pics so I can identify what I have? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks,
Brent
Been a while since I posted. Wife is keeping me busy with a kitchen remodel...
Anyway, a 147 followed me home about a month ago. This is my first experience with a hydro. So far I like it. I have a feeling though I may have caused myself some grief.
I noticed the engine smoking a bit from the vent hole (?) behind the air cleaner under the carb. I decided to run a bit of MMO in the gas tank. Today when I mowed the lawn it lost power after about an hour of mowing. The smoke started to get heavier, especially under heavy loads (uphill driving, long grass). I then saw that the muffler was cherry red. My first thought is a sticky exhaust valve. However, I also noticed that the carb adjustment screws were pretty far out of what Kohler recommends. Readjusting to the original 1-1/2 turns and then adjusting didn't fix the problem. The muffler is still red. Am I looking at something more serious here? Also, I'm unsure what the difference is between the Kohler carb and the Walbro carb. Anybody have any pics so I can identify what I have? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks,
Brent
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
The other day Roland was helping Ed T. trouble shoot a charging problem, Ed asked if it wasn't the VR what else could be the problem, well yesterday I had some strange symptoms in that area so I thought I would share.
While mowing withe the 1450 I noticed a slight discharge on the charge indicator. When I turned off the PTO the needle went back to center but no charge, where I normally see some charge.
Back to the garage and place voltmeter across the battery and get 12 volts which tells me it is not charging, figure the regulator is probably bad. Check the AC voltage on the regulator and it is good, check the DC output of the regulator and get 19 volts. I can't believe that so I recheck it several times and it is always 19 volts. I figure I must have an open somewhere as it indicates no load. Shut the tractor off and check connections, disconnect and reconnect some and when I start tractor it now indicates charge. Battery reads 13.7 volts and the DC output of the regulator is now 14.4 volts. Stop and start tractor several times and everything okay so I put everything back together and go back to mowing.
While mowing I notice I am back to discharge again, back to garage and check battery and it is back to 12 volts, check DC output of regulator and now it is 0 volts, not 19 volts like before but 0 volts. Now I'm thinking my regulator has just gone bad but I need to check the switch first. As I grab the switch to turn it off I notice it starts to charge. As I wiggle the switch I could make it charge or discharge. Tried spraying and wiping it but finally had to rob a switch off another tractor to fix the problem.
The moral of the story is the same problem may not always give the same symptoms for everybody.
While mowing withe the 1450 I noticed a slight discharge on the charge indicator. When I turned off the PTO the needle went back to center but no charge, where I normally see some charge.
Back to the garage and place voltmeter across the battery and get 12 volts which tells me it is not charging, figure the regulator is probably bad. Check the AC voltage on the regulator and it is good, check the DC output of the regulator and get 19 volts. I can't believe that so I recheck it several times and it is always 19 volts. I figure I must have an open somewhere as it indicates no load. Shut the tractor off and check connections, disconnect and reconnect some and when I start tractor it now indicates charge. Battery reads 13.7 volts and the DC output of the regulator is now 14.4 volts. Stop and start tractor several times and everything okay so I put everything back together and go back to mowing.
While mowing I notice I am back to discharge again, back to garage and check battery and it is back to 12 volts, check DC output of regulator and now it is 0 volts, not 19 volts like before but 0 volts. Now I'm thinking my regulator has just gone bad but I need to check the switch first. As I grab the switch to turn it off I notice it starts to charge. As I wiggle the switch I could make it charge or discharge. Tried spraying and wiping it but finally had to rob a switch off another tractor to fix the problem.
The moral of the story is the same problem may not always give the same symptoms for everybody.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Brent L.-
1 1/2 turns is WAY too lean for the main needle, that why your muffler is glowing. I use 1 3/4 on the idle screw and 2 3/4 on the main, that works for nearly all carbs.
1 1/2 turns is WAY too lean for the main needle, that why your muffler is glowing. I use 1 3/4 on the idle screw and 2 3/4 on the main, that works for nearly all carbs.
rchristensen
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Ed T. Yup, ignition switch.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Edward T.-
Should be a 3-prong.
Ryan M.-
The part numbers are the same, so I'd say they are.
Should be a 3-prong.
Ryan M.-
The part numbers are the same, so I'd say they are.
Matt & Edward,
1450/1650's just gotta have a 4 pole switch, or they don't work right.
1450/1650's just gotta have a 4 pole switch, or they don't work right.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Charlie-
What's the 4th pole? Other 3 are battery, ignition, start I think...
I've never had an ignition switch out of either of my QL's...could you tell...
What's the 4th pole? Other 3 are battery, ignition, start I think...
I've never had an ignition switch out of either of my QL's...could you tell...
Had a great time at Thresherman Park in Boonville, Indiana this weekend. Got to see a lot of old friends and meet some new ones. I had several of my Cub Cadets there:
But there were a lot of other Cub Cadets there as well:
Everyone had a great time. The next show is in October.
But there were a lot of other Cub Cadets there as well:
Everyone had a great time. The next show is in October.
