Archive through July 14, 2013

[wshytle]

Jeremiah-

Is there a reason the governor spring isn't in the correct holes where the throttle cable attaches? The manual states to put it in the second hole up like in the picture Charlie posted.

The throttle drop is usually caused by the throttle lever not being adjusted properly under the dash. It's a simple fix but you need to know the lock nut is simply there to maintain the final adjustment. The throttle lever itself is threaded and the bolt provides the actual adjustment by simply turning the head of the bolt in a tad until you gain the proper resistance. Once you have that it's time to tighten the lock nut to hold this adjustment.

There's been a lot of debate on static timing vs using a timing light and I think both are good ways to accomplish the task but static timing is my method of choice. In most cases a setting of .020 will not give you proper timing but it's the place to start. It takes some work to find that "S" mark on the back side of the flywheel but it's there. I've had flywheels on the bench and couldn't see it until I cleaned the area. It's a chore to do but I'd pull the engine sometime, remove the flywheel, and clean the timing marks then put some white paint or something easy to see there. It may be almost impossible for you to find the marks otherwise.

The throttle stop that Charlie showed you looks to be missing. When you open up the throttle the lever I spoke of earlier goes backwards and this right angle stop does exactly that. It's a fairly easy adjustment but a tachometer is really needed to get it set correctly.

And what's up with all of these dirty engines????

 

[jclazar]

I gotta second that about the filthy engine. I would be worried if I had a oil leak and over heating issues. thank you

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN L. - Not so much an oil "leak", the stock vent from the breather cover tends to blow oil vapor down and forward which covers the entire side of the engine with oil which attracts dust & dirt. If you click your mouse on the colorful box for KIRK ENGINES above he sells a machined aluminum breather cover with a 90 degree fitting with a hose barb connection that you can attach a piece of 1/4" dia rubber fuel hose to and route the engine vapors away from the engine. I've converted both of my Kohlers, a K321 & K241 to something similar by welding up the vent and drilling/tapping 1/4" NPT threads and installing an elbow & hose barb then adding 6-8 inches of fuel hose. Works great... No more oily mess. Ohh and on the last cover I fixed, I off-set the fitting about a half an inch forward, towards the exh. port from the center of the cover, the elbow gets too close to the carb float bowl if centered in the cover. I had to do some careful grinding for clearance on the first one.

I've put over 150 hours on the K321 since I made the modification and the side of that engine is just as clean & dry as the day I installed it. And accumulated dust/dirt easily blows off with compressed air.

In the old days, 1930's, '40's, & '50's, early '60's too, they called those things "Road Draft Tubes". Then pollution laws required the oily vapors to be routed into the intake air for combustion via the PVC valve.

 

[dcmay]

I learned a lesson from Jeremiah C.Don't bitch until you have trouble shot all possibilities.Last September I complained about my 1450 running a short time,backfiring and then stopping.Restarted 1 second after it quit.Run 5 more min and then repeat.In the past I had a 1450 and a 1650 that was doing this same thing.I cured both of them with a new Kohler coil.This was 12 years ago and both are still running fine.I guess that is one reason why I kept thinking ignition was this problem.If you can go back to Sept8,2012 posts you can see how very politely Jeremiah told me I wasn't done trouble shooting. I had already cleaned the carb, gas line & tank but ignored the compression until recently. I removed the engine and replaced it with a rebuilt one and it runs fine. Now it is not ignition. I removed the head and excessive carbon around the exhaust valve and not a perfect seal for the exhaust valve. Apparently when it got so hot the exhaust valve would stick and shut down. As soon as the fire went out it cooled enough to unstick. It would idle all day,and never stop,but even a small load and it did it's thing.I never once heard valve drop back down and it must have stopped 50 times.I did purchase an in line spark tester and it definitely had spark as it shut down.Will never have to guess about spark again. The head gasket was not blown as Nic and Harry thought could have been.Eventually I will overhaul that engine and put it in something. I think I've said everything I can think of so thanks to you Jeremiah. And isn't this sight wonderful.
Dan

 

[pdorow]

Dennis I have to laugh about the breather tube, I did the exact same thing years ago to my 1250.

 

[jbaker]

Troy,
Those hub caps are awesome and
CUBgradulation

 

[dfrisk]

PAUL - Yes, I contemplated doing it years ago too, but just never took the time, or had the MIG welder to weld it up correctly. I'd hate to think how badly warped the cover would have been after ARC welding it!

I know some engines run the blow-by into the air cleaner so the vapors get burned, but that can make a real mess out of an air filter in a hurry in dusty conditions.

I've done both my modifications at complete engine rebuilds, which includes powder coating all the coolig tins shiny gloss black and painting the block with a thinned gloss black enamel. Anything aluminun like the blower plate, carb, etc stays bare aluminum, except for the cam gear cover. I never paint the head or cooling fins on the block.

The black paint hides a lot of dirt/grime, but it also dissipates heat well, a satin or flat black would be better at dissipating heat, but would also hold more dirt/grime which is a great insulator which restricts heat transfer.

 

[jchamberlin]

Charlie, Wayne: Thanks for the response.

Wayne: No reason for the spring placement except that I installed the new one in place of the old one. Is the other side correct? The 1x8/9 & QL Service Manual does not show the multi-hole pivot plate I find installed on my tractor.

I'm glad to know I can adjust the throttle lever.

The timing seems good enough for now, it starts on the first crank, runs strong and clean --no smoke. I plan to address the marks when I tear the tractor down for painting.

I'll admit the engine is dirty. In my case, the head gasket was leaking badly. I have a new breather, but I haven't ordered a plate from Kirk Engines, I may get an order off to him in the next few weeks, but I have some other needs that take priority, like the blown-out muffler. I need ear plugs when I mow right now.

daniel c may: I'm glad I was able to help. Finding the root cause is satisfying, isn't it? Although it is relatively expensive, I would recommend running the IH Low Ash oil with some MMO added to at least the gas tank to help lubricate the upper cylinder. Many folks run Marvel Mystery Oil in both the gas and the oil. I think Charlie recommends a cap-full in the crankcase and two cap-fulls in the gas tank.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, Lewis, I can see that throttle stop on Jeremiah's engine. If you look closely at the photo Jeremiah posted and I've re-posted below, you can see it. It appears to be angled back to the right.

Troy, nice hubcaps!

 

[wshytle]

Kraig-

I did see what you're talking about but just wasn't sure...too much oily grime to tell.

But now that I look again I think you're on the money.

 

[lpalma]

I see it now...
Most of mine are just at or a little before the 3 o'clock position though.

 

[hydroharry]

Chauncey F - sorry I'm just catching up, and saw your question. If you can get the "6" set screws out (2 in each hole, 1 backs up the other) that hold the PTO on the bearing, then re-installing it back onto the bearing will be quite easy. It just slips back onto it, and you re-install the set screws (probably with anti-sieze).

Troy R - geez, I thought I saw a scratch on one of your IH Emblazzened HubCaps, but then realized it was just the reflection of the ceiling fan in the room where you took the picture. DANG NICE GIFT that you'll love forever!!!! The glass case should be permanently afixed to the wall in your room - I wouldn't be taken those anyplace. Just like some guys have final assembled their preciously restored CC units in their living rooms with door ways to narrow to ever remove them.

Jeremiah - I don't recall seeing a K321 with the site hole over by the S/G as you show in your pic. I was thinking that was mostly the K301's have that hole location, but even then they may still have a site hole with a plug still in it on the other side OR you may also have a hole with a plug still in it on the right outside edge of the shroud, somewhat hidden by the S/G mount. The S or SP should still be on the "outside" side of the flywheel and the site hole in your pic is really only showing you the back side edge of the flywheel. As Wayne noted, the S or SP get covered with rust and you can't see them. If you do find a site hole for the side of the flywheel, and you remove the plug then you need a dark room/garage, flashlight to shine in the hole, and a fine pencil point detail brush with water - and maybe up to 30 minutes of effort, to find the S or SP. Before you go to cleaning the marks off you could still try using a timing light since sometimes you can see the marks as the light flashes even if they are not deadnuts in alignment with the hole. Based on the way you say your engine now starts I think your timing "may" be close - but once it's dead nuts it will start almost "before" you turn the key, but your carb and valves also need to be set correctly as well.
By the way, could you do something about cleaning all that grime off your engine before you install your new/replacement muffler, and then repost some pics? That grime sure isn't helping your cooling, and you don't want to be blowing another head gasket.

 

[sbauer]

I dont know where to ask this question. But does anyone have any resources on restoring/parts on an IH fridge that i recently purchased. There is such limited info on the web. Thanks

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - one other thing, I tried to look back at pics you posted previously of the 149, to see if I could see a plugged site hole on the left side (carb side) of the engine. I didn't find any but I did notice that in a pic where you show the head removed and the tin cover you can see the side of the flywheel looking down at it. Since you already have the new head installed, I think if you just remove the tin you can still look down and see the side of the flywheel AND might just see your S or SP (and T for that matter) timing marks, and can do something about marking them so they stand out. Then you just have to find the site hole where they show up.

 

[drglinski]

My PTO has been on and off a PITA for the past year, and I suspect when it was rebuilt last spring it wasn't done right in the first place. It was rebuilt by someone other than me and I wonder if they used the gauge that was provided with the pto kit. I was hoping someone had one that they could send me so I could set it correctly and be done farting around with it. I don't need to rebuild it so I can't see paying the $$ for a rebuild kit if someone could send me a gauge.

I've got a mechanical narrow frame PTO clutch with one triangular spring with the tabs bent in.

If you can send me one that'd be great. A PM would work. Thanks

 

[wshytle]

Harry-

The timing site hole is under and behind the s/g in the bearing plate. It's a bear to see when everything is visible ("S" mark). You have to stand on your head and look around the corner. Here is the site hole on my 149.

You can even see the timing/alignment mark on the bearing plate beside the hole.

 

[wshytle]

I meant to add that the timing mark is on the backside of the flywheel, not the side as on a K301. This is the reason I suggested to Jeremiah to just pull the engine. When I get the "S" mark exactly in the middle of the window I go around and make two marks, one on the flywheel screen and align it up with one on the housing. This way all I need to know is what stroke I'm on to time it and the points will tell you that. I can also stay on the points side of the tractor when timing. It works well.

 

[digger]

Kohlers have S or SP (and T for that matter) timing marks?
Wholly crap, I guess I better start looking to see mine, cause I never have!

 

[hydroharry]

Wayne - thanks for posting the pic of your 149. I've had a few of those units in my day and I just don't remember the hole being in the bearing plate. Are you certain there isn't a hole with a plug over on the coil side of the shroud on your unit? Since I know you've been around the ball park quite a few times I'm gonna guess yes, you already looked every place for a plugged hole on the shroud - even under the coil clamp mount.

Charlie - it's a little hard to understand how you could have never looked/seen your timing marks. I know you said before, something about slapping new points in and setting them at .020 - or was it just the thickness of a match book cover? As Wayne said, that's close, but I'm gonna tell you it won't get you a cigar - I still feel a timing light is the most exact method - and if you do use one, and your points are in good condition, your carb and valves adjusted correctly I SWEAR your Kohler will start "almost" before you turn the key.

Daniel G - I think CC Specialties sells just the gauge, but you might have to email them.

 

[thoffman]

Did anyone see this omn craigelist Chicago??

The reason I'm asking is it sure looks like it has solid foot rests and the round thing on the dash tower looks interesting. I was on the hunt but the "D" head kid never called back. Damn, I hate when that happens!