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Archive through July 12, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Well here is something that I figured I would show all of the forum members!
Yesterday was my graduation party and my parents had given me a brand new NOS pair of IH hubcaps.
never put on a tractor and not a lick of rust on them.
They will not see a tractor rim either they will be put in a glass case in my room!
Hope you all like
Pretty dang cool, Troy! Daddy Like

Part three of my continuing quest to whip my 149 S/N 2050047U464260 into shape for the mowing season.
I first addressed the oil usage by replacing the head gasket and the head (see more below, and previous posts). Second, I made sure that the carb was getting fuel by replacing the rusty gas tank and clogged filter (see previous posts). Third, made sure the power was being transmitted to the hydrostatic pump by repairing the pin/cup connection, at least temporarily (see previous posts).

Following up on the installation of the High Boss head, I currently have a mish-mash of tin almost covering the head.


I plan to leave the High Boss head installed for right now, and when the tractor is split for painting, "correct" it to original low boss head. Meanwhile I will search for the correct tin for both High Boss and low boss heads. The tin for the High Boss head will be installed immediately and the correct tin for the low boss head will be installed later, when the tractor is painted.
After installing the head, I realized that with the added compression (the head gasket was no longer leaking), I needed to address the carburetion-- it just didn't smell right. I can never tell if the carb is running rich (unless I see black smoke) or lean (unless liquid gas is spitting out the exhaust), but I can tell when it isn't right. But before I tried to tune the carb, I thought I had better make sure the timing was correct. Although the tractor has always run OK since I bought it two years ago, it had never started particularly well. I was never sure if I was going to get it to turn over before the battery died.

The set of points that came with the tractor had "crusted up" when I first got the tractor home. I had to pick the crud off to get the tractor moving again after it died on my front yard after unloading it. I also installed an automotive condensor to replace the one that was physically damaged (water had gotten into the end cap). The only other thing I've done to the ignition system is to add the spark plug wire available from Kirk Engines, and the Autolite plug that Charlie recommends on his site.

The points installed on the tractor looked like this:


Everything came out easily, I had replaced the cover gasket earlier, it remained attached to the block. I wish I had some good advice for setting the points, but the only thing I'll offer is bring several different flat-bladed screw drivers. Also, if you're going to tune a Cub Cadet, understand that it turns Counter-Clockwise (CCW) as seen from the front of the tractor (that's Anti-Clockwise for you Brits). If in doubt, crank it with plug wire removed to see which way everything turns: don't guess.

The new points and push-rod:


The goal is to make sure that the crank is at the timing mark when the points just start to open, as you turn the crank by hand in its normal rotation. I managed to set my points at a "fat" 0.025 inch gap. They actually start to break just a bit past the mark (advanced), so as everything breaks in, the spark ought to move closer to the mark (retarded).


I could not find either an "S" (for Spark?) or a "T" (for Top Dead Center?), instead, I found a spot on the flywheel that had been spray painted yellow and showed an arrow point, or "<," that appeared to be intended to line-up with a raised line "--" on the blower cover back plate (shown above). I have to agree with Harry Bursell, that it appears to me that the best way to tell if your timing is dead-nuts on is to break out the timing light, if for no other reason than to properly see the stinking marks! (The marks were neither in the range of my bifocals or my naked eye --very frustrating on a hot day in the sun.)

The old push rod measured 1.5469" the new one measured 1.5525" --about .005" wear. I didn't think this was very much wear, but recent posts from knowledgable authorities indicate that even wear of a few thousandth's is enough to throw the timing off.

Since I had it open, I used the Allen head screws (socket head cap screws) available from Kirk Engines. The Allen heads cut down on the fumbling with the slotted screws. The new points seemed smaller in diameter than the old ones.

Everything back together:


I'm happy to report that the engine started more easily than before, and it seemed to have a bit more power. In fact, after setting the idle mixture, it starts on the first crank! It never did this before. Moreover, it now "smells right." I still need to figure out how to set the main mixture screw (it's now at 2-1/4 turns) and make sure I'm making the proper MAX RPM unloaded and loaded.

Edit: After the new head & gasket were installed, the engine started back-firing through the exhaust, which promptly blew out the bottom of the muffler, see last picture. Just another item for the next order.
Just a quick question for someone who has any knowledge on the pto's with mechanical brake on them... have a 108 of a buddy's here that when you engage the pto, the brake actually pops out of it's 3 pin tab and then binds on the pto when you disengage - is there a simple fix to this or do I have to remove the pto? I don't have much experience with this big paddle looking thing on the front of the pto!
Nice work Dawid.
Looks like a new drive shaft is in order.You could use duct tape.

I do not see the stop to set the hi rpm on your throttle linkage,are you missing it?

Terry D on the tires I had a 100 that came with these on it.PO said they worked well when mowing in wet grass.These were radials on a cub cadet.

Nice chrome,will that glass case be at Jacktown this weekend?


Troy - those hub caps are ABSOLTELY AWESOME!! What a cool thing to have for that one special tractor (or glass case). As for tires, gonna make a few calls tomorrow and check to see what's around (if anything). Put Tru Power 8.5" rears on my 73 today and gonna slap 4" tri-ribs up front. Put 10.5" tru-Powers on the 122 and going with wider (6.5"?) tri-rib fronts. The Original is the head scratcher insofar as tires. Thanks all for the feedback.
BILL J. - A Cyclops... you mean the off-topic MTD styled ugly... no.. I mean UGLY Cyclops tractor? Sorry, but your punishment is to go air up your 109's frt tire and run it around the block twice.

MAN..plastic hoods, & side panels, single covered head light, hood tapered the wrong way, UGLY styled fenders... reminded me of a green/yellow tractor when they first came out, and made me decide to hold on to my old NF's forever! I'd actually been looking for a decent clean O/T 1872 or 2072 for 2-3 yrs when I found my IH built 982. For a while my local dealer had both a 1772 diesel and the next newer MTD model, think it was a 1782 diesel. The 1772 had quite a few more hours but had been rebuilt because it had been "Dusted", and was more money than the 1782, but I'd have gladly paid the extra money for the 1772 because the Cyclops was so UGLY.

I didn't list all the things MTD/CCC did to reduce cost & save money on building the newer O/T tractors, like the diecast rearend housings, but IH was headed in that direction already, they used diecast grill castings on the late Q/L tractors, and I think diecast rear axle carriers started on the later 1X8/1X9 series. Diecast isn't always a bad thing, but most times it is, too much zinc in the alloy, it's weak, brittle, can't be welded readily.

TROY R. - Nice score on the pristine set of NOS hub caps. I wouldn't run them either and get them dirty. You glass showcase is a great idea!
I doubt the hub caps will make it to the show this time maybe another time but 8 of the Cub Cadets will be there and wagons and implements. The glass case might make it next year!

This year we will have some stuff a little different like this IH chipper!


The fully dressed 100 with rear PTO and 90 degree gear box will be running a corn sheller!


And there is a few that will make it to the show
Lewis "Do-Dah" Palmer: Throttle stop? What throttle stop?

Seriously, is that why my tractor won't stay at full throttle, but keeps dropping down while I mow?

I'm assuming that something is missing in this picture:


I can't find anything on Parts Lookup to guide me, but maybe I'm just not looking in the right spot.
Hi All,
Got a question. I just had the front PTO on my 129 go down on me and what I need to know is how hard is it to repair? I feel pretty good about being able to get the PTO off and rebuild it, what I don't know about is how does it go back on the bearing? What is the best way to get it on and not hurt the bearing? This is also the PTO with the doughnut brake on the rocker shaft. Any Ideas? Harry, Heeeeeellllpppp.

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