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justinpittman

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Is it OK to use a non-solid core pin in the hub that connects engine to drive shaft?

I bought an exact fit pin and replacement hub for my 127 -- ty Digger @ CCSpecialties -- but the pin fell through ... probably because the shaft's pin hole is a bit worn? Anyways, I picked up a few spiral wound pins from Fleet Farm that are a bit thicker, so these are OK to use? Or is there a "thickening" sleeve that can be wound around the solid pin? See photos.

Also attached is the failed flex coupler that I've replaced. Seeing the spray paint on this coupler made me chuckle ... someone painted the tractor's belly but didn't bother to replace worn parts!? "Lipstick on a pig" is what some would call that process :)

IMG_20201026_091314_4 (1).jpg
 

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mfrade

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How badly is the hole worn? If part(s) fell through.. I'd feel uncomfortable about using it. And just to be perfectly clear, we are discussing the driveshaft? YES?/NO? The drive adapter ( top pic ) is worn enough that I would replace it. It'll just add wear to any new parts and cause misalignment / vibration.

More of the lipstick on a pig I'd think. You've got it apart, do it right and run it another 25 years!
 

justinpittman

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The picture with worn hole looks to be called the drive hub, at least according to exploded views of assemblies on cubcadet.com, but sure -- if folks call that a "drive adapter" that's OK by me. The driveshaft hole is worn about the same. Part/most of the wearing blame is the previous owner "secured" the hub to shaft via machined screw + nut instead of a pin! 🤦‍♂️ I'll try to find a picture of that mess before disassembly.

CCSpecialties does carry oversized solid pins -- both .001 and .002 oversized -- so one option is to try that ... and I mention oversizing b/c the drive hub is brand new (not pictured) and the new solid pin still can slip thru (so ignore drive shaft involvement).
 

justinpittman

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How to secure a hole w/ screw + nut. Don't try this at home. aka. this is the state that I inherited the 127 :)

IMG_20201004_172740_7.jpg
 

mgonitzke

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The factory used a solid pin for a reason. Spirol pins, roll pins, and bolts are not an improvement.

That said, the best fix for this is to change the entire driveshaft to a 1250/1450/1650 style that has a flex coupling and spherical bushing on both ends. This will last much, much longer than the original setup.
 

digger

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Is it OK to use a non-solid core pin in the hub that connects engine to drive shaft?

I bought an exact fit pin and replacement hub for my 127 -- ty Digger @ CCSpecialties -- but the pin fell through ... probably because the shaft's pin hole is a bit worn? Anyways, I picked up a few spiral wound pins from Fleet Farm that are a bit thicker, so these are OK to use? Or is there a "thickening" sleeve that can be wound around the solid pin? See photos.

Also attached is the failed flex coupler that I've replaced. Seeing the spray paint on this coupler made me chuckle ... someone painted the tractor's belly but didn't bother to replace worn parts!? "Lipstick on a pig" is what some would call that process :)

View attachment 140607
Go with an oversized solid pin, and a new drive hub, yours is shot.
1603743346388.png
 

slufkin

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I'd wager a new driveshaft would be a good investment as well.
 

justinpittman

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I'll re-state things for SpeedReading's sake:
  1. new hub - already bought
  2. oversized pins - already knew about
Winter is coming so I'll have to defer a new shaft till the next major fix.

Thx.
 

justinpittman

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digger

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Whats the part number for the drive adapter drive hub?Where to purchase?
What tractor are you working on?
Or you can snoop around if you want.
 

digger

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Paul Young

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You have too remember if something locks up in hydo, transmission ,rear end and wheels stop because of too much traction, any thing bigger or stronger than designed roll pin could twist and damage something else. If you want it too run like a new one use new parts and it will run for years. If you want to cheap out and cobble it up it will break down sooner and cause more damage. best advice fix it right the first time and not pay twice the second time. Digger has good quality parts at a good price.
 

jlord

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I thought I saw on this site, maybe it was else-where, that a fella built a driveshaft assembly for a 1650 that used a sliding splined yoke, two universal joints and flanges for the engine and input into the hydro.
That looked like a total upgrade that got rid of the "rag-joint(s) " and all the other wear parts. Everything could be greased as well.
 

jlord

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Jim, was it the one that Dave Kamp made?

Dave's Driveshaft
Although I like the full explanation of his build and the sourcing of the parts, I would combine the idea with the build in the post that John G. linked to in order to eliminate the rag joint style flex couplings altogether. I don't know how much movement the square sliding coupling has and would prefer a splined type of coupling to reduce vibration as the tolerances are tighter.
I'm sure a smaller version of one like those found on driveshafts of a car or truck can be found. I thought I noticed ones that might work for this app used on the steering shafts of some cars and trucks. A trip to the junkyard and a little machining and it's a build.
 

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