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Archive through August 18, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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abriar

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 17, 2009
Messages
47
displayname
Adam Briar
I believe Lucas Jones was talking about my hydraulic setup on my 100. I used a GM power steering pump that came off of a '72 Chevelle I believe. The 2 spool valve is from a 317 JD tractor. The cylinder is from a Massey combine. I made a new rock shaft. In order to get the pump to run the right direction, I had to make a short jack shaft and use 2 belts to run it. Here's some pics for your viewing pleasure.

PIC 1

PIC 2

PIC 3

PIC 4

PIC 5
 
I also added a guard over the cylinder to keep from pinching my leg.

PIC 1

Here's a subsoiler I built that uses the rear hydraulic ports. The set on the front is for my power angle blade.

PIC 2

PIC 3
 
Adam B. That is awesome.
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Adam, great job on the design and build of that.
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BTW, I cleaned up your photo links.
 
Adam - Did you make your hard lines from brake line ?
That looks as though it were <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Factory built.
 
Thanks guys. It was a lot of work but in the end it was all worth it.

Kraig,
thanks for fixing my photo links.

Ken,
I used 3/8" hydraulic tubing. We use it at work to plumb machines so I was able to buy some of it and use the shops bender and flare machine.
 
Adam - Where can hydraulic tubing be bought ?
I've wanted hard lines before on things and never could find any locally. The place here that makes hoses will just about throw me out the door when I ask if they can get steel lines.
 
Ken,
Try Mcmaster-Carr. They sell all kinds of steel tubing. You should be able to get the fittings you need from them as well.
 
Adam,

What did you use and how did you get the jack shaft to correct the rotation on the power steering pump? I was thinking of using a setup like yours on my 128.
 
Eric
My original plan was to mount the pump turned around the other way which would have made the pulleys line up. The problem was, the pump needed to rotate the other direction. So, once I turned the pump around to get the rotation correct the pulleys didn't line up. The jack shaft had to be added to run the pump since it couldn't be moved forward to align the pulleys due to the S/G. I bought a couple of bearings for the jack shaft and made the rest. Being a toolmaker/machinist sure has come in handy.
 
Hey Adam, next time you log on shoot me an email, I may need to get some specs from you, I plan on doing the same thing with a 128, so your specs and what all you used would be very helpful.
 
Aaron, Would it be a huge pain in the butt to machine a new cover over the cam gear, to hold a gear the size of the crank gear. That a person could hook a mechanical tach to. Just wondering,
happy.gif
 
Dave, you would have to figure out the correct gear ratio, but what is wrong with one of david kirks electric tachs they are a much nicer setup (he is one of the sponsors at the top of the page.
 
I knew that was available and I have nothing against David, he does excelent work and provides a great service to the forum. I just had it in my head and asked a question.
 
Dave, that is a neat idea if you could get the gear ratio right it wouldn't be that hard after that it would also give a dead on reading all of the time you wouldn't have a delay in the reading like you have with an electric tach.
 
Anybody got a junk 10 12 or 14 horse crank thats junk, I mean junk with a good cam gear on it?
As far as accuracy goes you still deal with needle bounce but you go to about a 270 degree arc. I just got it stuck in my head.
 

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