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Archive through March 07, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dfrisk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
6,433
displayname
Dennis Frisk
KEN - My Super H was Our mowing tractor, and since it wasn't a Super H-TA even though it went down the line @ FARMALL with probably one ahead of it and one behind it it doesn't have LPTO. With a sickle mower I'll take the transmission driven PTO any day mowing tangled alfalfa for when the sickle plugs up and the slip clutch starts chattering everything except the hyd. stops....Hit the clutch, raise the bar, shift into reverse to back up & clear the bar, shift back into forward gear, 3rd (5 mph) or 4th 6-1/2 mph) ease forward, drop the bar. let out the clutch and go back to mowing. When I mowed with the SUPER M-TA I had to disengage the LPTO and re-engage it while still shifting which required about as many arms as if I had been on one of those miserable 2-cylinder green things!
When We ran the Brillion 6 ft rotary mower (bushhog) with the Super H, Yes, the inertia of the blades did push the tractor around until You could get the tractor back into neutral or disengage the PTO which in close quarters WAS much nicer than using it with a transmission driven PTO tractor. But most of Our work was in wide open 20 acres, 40 acre, or 80 acre fields and even with the SUPER H all You had to watch out for was making too tight of turns and getting the hammering back through the transmission from the PTO shaft on the mower. When We mowed roadbanks, or around farm buildings the SUPER M-TA or later the 4010 jd went on the mower.
If You notice I did mention about close quarters verse wide open spaces. I've never used an over-running clutch but I'm sure they are Very annoying as You say. Handiest bushhog Dad ever had was a 5 ft FASTHITCH mounted mower We put on the 450 FARMALL....It was built like a battleship and if You could drive the tractor over stuff it would shred it....and the 450 did have LPTO....and since the bushhog was fully mounted You could chop two rows of cornstalks and make a pivot turn and take the next two right next to them, and run 6-1/2 to 7 mph all day long.
 
And all this time I thought we had a section for big red tractors.
Man I hate it when my CRS kicks in.
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Charlie,
Do you have any information on installing a helper spring? I checked your FAQ's but didn't see anything.

Kraig,
I also checked the archive disc and couldn't find anything as well.
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Ray, I've never got my hands on a manual for the narrow frame helper spring install. I do have some info though.

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Kraig,
Many thanks!

Everyone,
Mark this day. We've finally discovered the limits of Kraig's archiving, BUT, the stand in information is as effective!

Many thanks Kraig for all your years of service to this great forum and interesting hobby.
 
Another question:
What's the difference between the CW36 Snowthrower and teh CW-36 Snow Thrower #2?
 
Ray L: You should know that Kraig just forgot he had that installation information. Just ask him again...:)->...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Myron,
I was stunned when I read that Kraig didn't have the information. I assume he's forgotten where he put it, a glitch typical to those approaching the Golden years. . .

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My question about the CW-36 may just be a nomenclature change. Both owners manuals seem similar side by side. I'll pay more attention when I'm soaking in the tub tonight. . .
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Ray, I assume you are referring to what I named the two versions of the Operator's Manual for the CW36. I don't think the CW36 changed just the manual changed. BTW, there's lots of Cub Cadet info I don't have and I've forgot about where I put a bunch of the stuff I do have, not because of my age (Golden years are mid 40's!?!?
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) but because of the quantity of info.

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Myron,
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Does anyone know where I can find block differences.I have seen it before on the forum. I done the search for blocks and oil pans. Came up short! Looking on maybe cutting the mounting off flanges ether a K301 or K321 to mount in my narrow frame 107. If you Know! Thanks, Brandon
 
Hi guys i`am back. my confuser burnt and went out and bought a new one. much faster but i lost so much info that it will take weeks to get most back. later Don T
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What do you guys use when you replace the hytran in the rear end to clean out the bottom of the rear end,to get all the junk sitting in there out?I guess do you spray anything in there to clean it out?i read the FAQ about changin the hytran but i didnt see any info if i can spray something in there to clead the dingleberrys out!i dont want to spray something in there to clean it out that will end up hindering the performance.
thanks jason
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Jason D.-

I put on latex gloves and reach in there and scoop it all out, and then wipe it out the best I can with rags.
 
Jason D.
What Matt said, then take some diesel fuel and a sprayer to get the rest. After I do the diesel thing, I take carb cleaner and spray everything down and wipe one last time.
 
Jason D.
I have used lacquer thinner to clean out one for a customer. Just spray in there with a pressure can and just tip the housing so it runs into a drain pan. It really breaks up the gunk. I would even try engine degreaser which is like diesel fuel.
Hope this helps, Brandon
 
HOW are u fella's doin i signed up a couple weeks ago and cant believe the amount of info here. I have a 77 1450 the best 600$ i ever spent.my question is i tore it down a few months ago and forget where the ground from the frame to the engine goes does it go to the starter or the block.A big thank you to everybody here this forum has been a hugh help.
 
Thanks Brandon,Charlie and Matt
that will be a big help!Do any of you,kraig,remember the photo showing the differences in the hydro filters that are avaialable.ive looked and searched to no avail i cant find it.I bought a napa filter for now and found a local place that will order a fleet gaurd and know where i can get a cub cadet one but i just wanted to see the difference.
thanks
 

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