Archive through July 28, 2010

[smccoy]

Hello All, I have just joined this website after reading alot of the great info for the past few days.
I need some help / direction if y'all would be so kind.
I just picked up my first cub cadet. It is a Model 124 that is in great shape. My wife's grandfather bought it new in the late 60's. It was always dealer maintained until he died many years ago. I remember seeing it run about 15 years ago when I started dating my wife. This thing has been garage kept, and has no rust that I see. It was running fine and used to cut grass until her grandmother drove it in the garage and parked it about 15 years ago. I picked it up 2 days ago. It had one tire that was flat and on the rim, the other three still were pumped up. I aired up the front left tire and it held air. I put it in neutral and rolled it onto my trailer and brought it home to my shop.
My questions are, where do I begin? I don't think I going to recondition it to the point of show quality or anything, but would like to use it to cut my grass. It has a couple of attachments that came with it. Some kind of disc attachment, a big heavy push/scraper blade attachment, and a small metal frame thing that has a big canvas bag thing, that has a separate motor mounted on it that hooks up to the cub deck with another attachment. Everything is in really great condition. I will try to get some pics and post them if I can figure out how.

What do I need to do first? Obviously I need to get some manuals, then drain out all the old fluids, gas, oil, etc.
Any help you guys can give me will be much appreciated. Thank you all

 

[kide]

Sean:
Welcome to the forum!! Pictures, we need pictures!!!

 

[dtanner]

Sean Mccoy

Welcome to the site were Ih Cub Cadets get reborn. If I were you I would have a good look at the fuel tank for rust and drain and replace all fluids. A carb kit will be needed and a battery I`am sure.Grease the tractor and move front to back and give it a full service. Have fun with the new to you tractor.Look up in the parts look up and i`am sure CC specialties will have all the parts to make that Cub run lile new

 

[ljones]

Sean Welcome to the forum

Your "big heavy push/scraper blade attachment" is a snowblade used for pushing snow, hte second thing you described is a bagger it conects to your deck to bag the grass you cut. You will need to cange the oil with 30w and the trans fluid with red label hydrolic transmission fluid found at your locar cub dealer or the sponsors above. You can get high quality manuals at binder books (one of the sponsors above).

 

[avanwettering]

Dave Ross. I like the tires. They pull well and are soft enough that you do not feel the bars on blacktop/concrete like a standard bar tire. (I do have standard bar tires on other tractors,( not starting a argument with any one) I have 25-10X12 on that tractor witch gives you extra room under the fenders so you dont take your fingers off if you put them under the fender edge verses the 26" tires.

 

[digger]

Art,
You gotta pay attention to the little details.
Look at his feet.

 

[wshytle]

Sean-

If I were you I'd check with the wifes family and see if they still have the manuals that came with it.

That's where I'd start.

 

[bbowman]

Sean;

Don't waste any time on the 124.Just push it to the road and I guess I can come drag it off for you! You wouldn't mind helping me load it on my trailer,will 'ya?

All in fun! Glad to see another Southener on the forum!
Bobby B.

 

[lbuttke]

UPDATE:

I got the 100 home from the woods, put a jumper wire from the + post of battery to + post on coil, no spark at plug or points.
Clean points so both contacts shine, good spark at points, non at the plug.
Replace Champoin plug with a new Autolite plug, intermit spark.
Replace plug wire, still intermitt spark at plug, good spark at points.
Had condenser checked at local shop, said it was good.
Any suggestions ??

 

[kphill]

Lonny,Are you shure you are getting fuel? Remove plug and spray some starting fluid in or put a couple of tablespoons or so of gasoline in plug hole and try it..If still no start check air gap on points, check for bare or grounded wire from points to coil, and if all else fails, check resistence of coil with a multimeter. I would not replace coil until I am shure that is the problem because they are a little pricey for a new one.

 

[sreinbolt]

Still trying to get my new wiring harness on my 71. I bought the harness so long ago I can't even remember who I bought it from. Bottom line is my voltage regulator has 4 posts on it, and there are 4 wires that go to the VR. The schematic says I should have a grey, green, yellow and BLACK wire. The harness actually has a grey, green, yellow and RED wire. I have the green running from the VR to the armature post on the generator, but when I hook the battery up, the starter engages without me turning the key. When I remove the green wire from the armature post, this problem ceases, but then I don't know where else I should put the green wire. Maybe I have the other end of the green wire hooked to the wrong place. I know that's a long story, but any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[aschumacher]

Scott, so others can help you more...go to
www.cubfaq.com/questions.html
and look at item #60. Print yourself a wire diagram.

. A great place to start.

 

[kide]

Lonnie:
"good spark at points" ?? If you mean it's actually sparking, I'd replace the condenser, especially with the intermittent spark at the plug..The condenser is <u>supposed</u> to dampen arcing at the points...

 

[sreinbolt]

I already have enough wiring diagrams to sink a battle ship. Only one shows a 4 post VR and none refer to a RED wire on the VR end of the harness.

 

[aschumacher]

Scott, where does the other end of the red wire connect? Or is this part of the problem? The diagram is super simple..VR term F goes to SG F term. VR G term goes to A on SG. BAT goes to Start sw then Battery +. VR L goes to the ignition sw. Anything missing a wire on the end away from the Voltage reg ??

 

[sreinbolt]

Allen: I have the other end of the red wire attached to the sylanoid.

 

[nbartee]

Thanks Digger,

Actually it was (4) bolts & one wire. I'm thankful I didn't have to use a puller.

Norm

 

[glippert]

Jerry H - Thanks for your reply. I searched back to July 10th or 12th and found the Jimmy Long's first post on this problem. It'll be a great reference for me if my brother brings his friend's 1450 over for me to check out.

By the way, that thick gasket on the carb is a good idea to check, too. If I recall what I've read about it on here in the past, it helps prevent the carb from getting too hot and "boiling" the fuel.

Thanks again.

Jimmy Long - If you see this when you return from vacation, please update us on your problem. Did you figure it out yet?

 

[lbuttke]

FUTHER INFO on my 100.

It will fire once and a while, and even run a bit now and than, but very rough and not for long.
When it aint fireing there is no spark at the points.
It is getting plenty of gas as I have flooded the plug a couple of times trying to get it started.
With plug out and spinning over, you can feel fuel being blown out of the plug hole.

I have a new condenser on order, will be replaceing the points at that time also.
Will rob a known to be good coil from another seldom used cub to put in place of the suspected bad coil.

 

[kphill]

Lonny, If you have a digital multimeter and want to test the coil while you are waiting, The primary resistance should be around 3.0 to 4.5 ohms resistance and the secondary should be around 8,000 to 10,000 resistance..This is about the best I can find to explain this.The + is on the right and the - is on the left.. http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25732&start=0