Archive through July 28, 2010

[hydroharry]

Lonny B - obviously you're getting alot of possibilities, but I'm leaning toward the key switch losing connection.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but are sometimes hard to start)

 

[lbuttke]

Harry B.

Would useing a jumper wire from the + post on coil to + post on battery eliminate the key switch from being the possable problem?

Cause when I did this, I did not get any better results in attempting to get this motor back running.


This motor never gave me any troubles in the 3 years I have had it, always started when in a gear drive, not so much in a hydro drive in the dead of winter.

 

[dross]

Andy V. thanks
Lonny B, yes, You got good advise and useing known good parts is the best way, mabey the primary side of the old coil going south on you.
Sean, your in the right place.

 

[jelong]

Dave,

I’m back from my sabbatical.

I tried your recommendation. Disconnecting the + side of the battery cable and attaching a jumper cable. I then attached a 12 gauge wire to the + side of coil to the + side of battery. Next I took the battery cable and touched it to the + side of the starter. The engine started and ran at about ¾ throttle for about 1 minute and died as before.

Additionally, per Don’s suggestion, I jumped across the foot pedal switch but it had no effect either,ran at about ¾ throttle for about 1 minute and died as before.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Sean, WELCOME!

Scott R., I believe there should only be one red wire within the harness and that goes between the starter/generator and the solenoid it should be a heavier gauge wire when compared to the rest. Could it be orange or pink?

 

[dross]

Jimmy, I'm not second guessing you I'm double checking. One of the things I asked you to do was run the fuel out of the gas tank into a clear jar. Did you do that with the regular fuel line attached and gas cap on?

 

[jharvey]

Jimmy
Scroll down about nine posts to Gregs post and check to see if you have that gasket between the carb. and block. It's about 1/4" thick and of a composite material that doesn't conduct heat to the carb. JH

 

[aschumacher]

Scott + Kraig, I messed up yesterday and was looking at a 70 diagram. Now looking at the right drawing, and going back to Scotts early posts...there maybe a slight confusion factor...Scott says he has a 4 post V/R...where the drawing has a 3 post. Also if a red wire comes out of the harness near the V/R...thats a good distance from the SG and not really the heavy start cable being referred to.

 

[jelong]

Dave,
Yes, I removed the gas line from the carb and let it run into a clear plastic container. The flow was unimpeded and no debris was visible. The gas cap was on during this test. I thought I had posted the results earlier, guess I was mistaken.

Jerry,
I have the thick gasket between the carb and block.

 

[dross]

Jimmy, I'm stumped. You had posted those results I was checking on how it was done. Any body else want to take a shot?

 

[kide]

Well, if it's POSITIVELY got spark when it quits, and POSITIVELY got proper gas/air mixture when it quits, then it's mechanical in nature - valve sticking open would be next on the list..or, no lifter clearance on one of the valves . I've seen that personally on a Cushman flathead, it'd run about 1/4 mile and then not start again until it had cooled down...

 

[mfrade]

Jimmy L. - I've been waiting for your reply as I've thought for a while now that this may be a case of an exhaust valve hanging up when hot. It isn't common but is known to happen. You can try a lube like Marvel Mystery Oil and/or try a different motor oil and see if that changes things.

 

[jelong]

Mike, I have M.M. oil in my garage. How would you recommend applying it?

Gerry, As the engine dies with the timing light hooked up, I have fire even as the engine reaches very low rpm. Additionally, I can view through the throat of the carb fuel being atomized at an even rate.

Dave, Thank you for all your help!!

 

[kide]

Jimmy:
If it's a sticking valve or zero clearance on the lifter, I'd pull the breather/valve cover from the side of the engine. If it's a sticky valve, it's going to take quite a while to get MMO to it via the crankcase or in gasoline, so I'd soak the heck out of the stems directly. If it's zero clearance, you're at the right spot to check it (page 3.5 in the Kohler manual)... Take two and report to us in the morning..

 

[sreinbolt]

Allen and Kraig: my 71 has the Voltage Regulator part number IH-545130-R92, which has 3 posts on the side and one on the back. Not the IH-545130-R93, which just has the 3 posts on the side. On mine, the posts on the side are marked "L", "F" and "G", and the post on the back is not marked at all. Starting to think I should just buy a new regulator and be done with it......

 

[kphill]

Scott, That single terminal on the back is a ground terminal..Fab a wire to run from that terminal to the mounting bolt for a ground..The other three terminals are the same as a 3 wire..Just connect according to the wiring diagram..

 

[sreinbolt]

Kevin: I have 4 wires on the harness at the VR, and 4 terminals on the VR. I just don't know which one goes to which.

 

[pbell]

Scott
Check those terminals on that VR again and be sure it is not "L", "F" and "Batt", and if it is that terminal on the back is the "GEN" terminal. There has to be a battery connection someplace, and if there isn't, you don't have the correct VR.

 

[kphill]

Scott, Here is a diagram..The G on a 4 terminal is a Generator and not a ground.This should help..

 

[aschumacher]

Scott, do you have any of the other wires in the harness connected? Maybe we could work it backwards. Are colors easy to identify? Is it possible that harness is NOT for that tractor? :-(
EDIT Scott, if you look at a 70 wire diagram you can see the 4 pole hookup as just described by Kevin.