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Archive through June 05, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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lrehm

Active member
Joined
May 4, 2008
Messages
40
displayname
L. William Rehm
I'm doing some maintenance on the 102/122 (somewhere during it's life the 10HP engine was replaced by a 12HP) that I inherited from my father when he passed and I noticed a few wire retaining clips were not attached anywhere. The noticed 1 on the starter/generator side of the engine and one above the engine behind the grill. Is there a diagram that shows where they should be bolted on?

Also, on the same tractor the rear tires are filled with calcium chloride. I have no need for the extra weight (not with my fat butt), and the tires are about ready for replacement. Is there an acceptable way to get the calcium chloride out and then what do I do with it?
 
One last comment on the paint question.. Unless your monitor is color and temperature calibrated, using the tools of the trade, do not assume that any color you see on your screen is the exact shade that it is supposed to be (in other words, it may not match a paint chip of the correct color). This is the same issue you (used to) see on TVs that had Tint, Contract, Hue, Brightness and other controls on them... ( I thought Spock was green on the original Star Trek, 'tll we got the TV fixed..)
 
Just when I thought it was safe to go back in the water!
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How did that movie go!
Don't make me take the rod out!
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Porter, Aaytay & Kendall

I'm on a trip and had to catch up on a few days reading. Liked the message and comments on 6-2

73 de KT4YA
 
Jeez, and I was going answer Mark's question on paint by pointing to Bob's page too. Thank goodness I chickened out cause "I got a bad felling about this one"
 
L William Rehm - I can't help you with the 1x2, but can offer a little advice on the calcium chloride. If your tires are worn out anyway, the quickest might be to just slash the sidewall. When I worked for a Goodyear farm tire store many years ago, a slice in the sidewall of a filled tractor tire made for a quick exit of the fluid (and a real pain trying to jack up the tractor to change the tire in the middle of a muddy black loam field). Otherwise you could just cut off the valve stem, let out the air and some fluid, then break the bead loose from the rim. You should try to do it in a large tub though, to catch the fluid. It'll make a real mess. Also, don't get it on your shoes (rinse it off quickly & thoroughly if you do get it on them) or it will shrink, shrivel, and crack the leather beyond use. (Yes, the voice of experience there!
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) Finally, check with you local waste management folks to see if there are any disposal restriction in your area.

Oh, yeah - plan on finding a lot of rust and corrosion on the wheels, inside the tire.
 
Kendell that is correct, even going by hard color sample can be misleading. Just because it has the same code, don't mean it’s going to match. Different manufacturers of paint achieve a color match by use of specific formulas. These formulas use brand specific tints, and every tint is different between manufacturers. Color match and formula generation is done in a lab by each of the manufacturers. Some do better than others as far as formula calibration. Each paint code has a brand specific formula or list of tints and the amount of tint by weight. When you mix paint to make a color code you are "weighing up" all the tints as per the formula. Color match all depends upon a vast number of variables to be exactly the same in order for it to match. Manufacturer, mineral sources, age of the materials, cleanliness of paint batch equipment, material of can it is stored in, storage temperature, chemical suppliers, too much human error while mixing, on and on and on all the way to the lighting used to mix all the tints to a final mix at a jobber or body shop. You can try and match paint in a paint booth and it will look good until you move it out in natural light. You might think it looks good in natural light until a cloud blocks the sun light and all of a sudden it does not match. The bottom line is that no matter how much you think it matches, it really does not. Let’s say you paint a car and save some paint and three years later you smash it, great I got the paint it will match right? Wrong! UV damage and other environmental effects will degrade paint to the point it will look entirely different that the stuff in that can. So when you take a sample in to be matched, make sure it is a good one.

There is so much about paint you can write several books about it. I always told people and customers that you can go to ten different shops for an estimate for body work; you will find yourself holding ten completely different estimates (and a bunch of other stuff to sucker them in). Sorry for the rant
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L William Rehm-

To add to what Greg mentioned, don't get it on the grass, garage floor, etc either...It'll kill your grass, and it takes months to dry, even when spilled on asphalt that is exposed to direct sunlight every day...don't ask how I know this...
 
Guys,
I am 85% done restoring my 71. I had it blasted and primed. I am currently finishing painting. I came to the lift arm. The spring is either broke,shot or hung-up because the button will not return back up. Right now I have the lift arm off the tractor. Is there a replacement spring and if so how hard of a job is it?
Thanks
 
Porter, After seeing a coworker's 982 repainted I've decided to be very careful with paint selection if I ever have one repainted. He's got an awesome 982 with all the options. Last year he had it professionally repainted with supposedly the correct paint codes. It had a purplish/cranberry tint to the red paint. Very shiny and pretty but definitely not the right color. I didn't have the heart to tell him it didn't look right as he was so excited about it. My wife even immediately knew something wasn't right with it when she saw it.
 
HOLY CRAP!
Dennis posted!
I knew it was gonna get cold tonight, but i sure dint think HE double L was gonna freeze over too!
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But remember ----- an original style paint job MUST have a few runs in it!
 
Hey, Jerry that's why I put some runs in the O on purpose! ;)
 
Porter Odenbach ??
.-- .... .- - / -.. --- . ... / -.-- --- ..- .-. / -- --- .-. ... . / -.-. --- -.. . / ... .- -.-- ..--.. / .. / -.-. .- -. .----. - / ..-. .. --. ..- .-. . / .. - / --- ..- -

Never mind I got it !! LOL
 
Adrian it’s a tough call. I would plant the seed by saying "nice paint job I like the custom color"

Keith are they paint runs or paint hangers
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Jim, aren’t I annoying?
 
I sure did not want to start a "Ruckus" by my paint question. It's just that I'm very impressed with this little machine, that I want to be able to hand it down to one of our kids.
It wont be a trailer queen, so If it not totally correct, it wont matter much. I know that with a little maintance it will still be around after I'm gone.
 
One more question, I had a chance to pick up a really nice original 782. I think that what it was anyway.. My question is, does the Red with the Black stripe have a driveshaft like the little 70??? Again thanks much!!!!

Also does it weigh more or less than the 70. I know that two big fellows could not lift the little 70 frontend off the ground.
Does anybody know the weights of each?? Thanks!!
 
Charlie,
I let myself get too busy with other things. (including work) After noticing that last summer went by in a blink again, I decided this year I needed to make an effort for <font color="0000ff">CUB</font> time and the pleasure that comes from getting a tractor fixed up and running again. I started this spring and got several things accomplished. I wanted to get to PD but couldn't work it out. But when your working on <font color="0000ff">CUBS</font> you <u>gotta</u> read THE FORUM everyday. So I've gotten to the point again that any time I start up the computer I check in to see what's happening. I kept hoping I could get by SV and visit, but I see that it will be a longer trip now.
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