Archive through December 14, 2009

[dfrisk]

The Onan in my 982 had just been rebuilt when I bought it yrs ago, has 250 hrs on it according to the new hour meter. Hopefully I don;t have to think about replacing it very soon, but if I do there's a certain engine retailer who's using pic's of My 982 from Jonathan Lucky's old website on their website so hopefully I can get a "Discount".

Not sure what I'd put in the 982. There was a discussion on the pulling forum here, probably in archives by now about Generac engines, Might have to check them out since I think they're built in Whitewater, Wi. I don't really want a B&S, Honda would be O-K. Suppose I could could get ambitious and find a V-4 Ford industrial water-cooled engine.....

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, I like that sign!

 

[dross]

Jerry, I'm not saying your doing anything wrong, I read something mabey 2 or 3 months ago, it wasn't a safty issue, it just bugged me I couldn't find it. Heck, it's just the world wide web, how much stuff can there be in it?

 

[elamott]

I am in the process of replacing the governor gear in my 129. I have read by more than one person that I should not put the balance gears back in. Can/would someone tell me why. I don't doubt you but I am curious as to the reason.
Thanks
elamott

 

[dtanner]

Earl LaMott (Elamott)
There has been to many holes in the side of blocks of good strong engines. What a waste I think.They (balance gears)In everything here have been removed and not going back in. Just my .02

 

[kharvey]

photo test

 

[kharvey]

It worked. This was from last weeks snow storm. I need to put a creeper on for this much snow.

 

[digger]

Kendal H.
Hit the enter key after each pic you load up and you'll have it down pat!

 

[jharvey]

Kendal
Way to go!

 

[bbowman]

Earl;

This is the best reason I can think of!
This was a very strong K301!
Bobby B.

!

 

[dfrisk]

KENDELL - I forgot to mention the governors on ONAN's are a totally different design that a typical engine like IH tractor engines, Kohler's etc. and the increased friction/resistance makes them sluggish. I'm really suprised the work as well as they do in welder/generator applications.
They are a smooth running engine, not sure if they're smoother than a K-17 or Magnum Kohler.

Onan's may have been a good engine by 1980 standards, but that was 30 yrs ago. Lots changed. The old single cyl. Kohler K-series must have really been ahead of the curve since so very little was changed for the single cyl. Magnum engines.

 

[lbury]

Howdy, rather new to this forum. I have a cub 100 that I bought without a motor, I have a good K301 out of a 125. Am I going to have to put a pan from a K241 on the K301 to make it work ? Is there anything else I need to know to make this switch? Am building a puller, so origianlity is not a concern, thanks........Lyle

 

[jmuncie]

In planning modifications to my 126, I've become curious about what all the frame holes are for. I hadn't noticed before, but it appears that both frame rails are made from identical flat patterns so that all holes are in both rails even if they're only used in one. I don't know, yet, if all the notches are also mirrored, for example the notch in the right rail for the lift lever. Below are pictures of the rails on a 127 parts tractor with all the holes labeled. I've listed what the holes are used for that I know. I'd like to fill in the rest of the info, as well as whether or not each hole is included on the earlier models because I know some are not. The resulting info might be good for the FAQ. This will cover the narrow frame tractors. Similar info would probably be useful for wide frames, but I'm not the one for that task.

I've used the same numbers for similar holes on both rails, but I've listed holes for both sides independently because I know that both sides didn't serve the same purpose and some may have had no purpose at all.

R1: Wiring harness
R2 & R3: Early mule drive
R4: Frankenstein bolt
R5: Wiring harness
R6:
R7:
R8:
R9, R10, & R12: Hydraulic unit
R11: Wiring harness
R13 & R16: Lift quadrant
R14 & R15: Rockshaft bracket
R17:
R18:
R19 & R20: Sleeve hitch bracket

L1:
L2 & L3: Early mule drive
L4: Frankenstein bolt
L5:
L6:
L7:
L8:
L9:
L10:
L11:
L12:
L13: Brake lock lever
L14 & L15: Rockshaft bracket
L16:
L17:
L18: Transaxle mounting
L19 & L20: Sleeve hitch bracket

I'm most curious about 5, 6, 7, 8, 16, & 17 on both sides. Holes 7 & 8 have weld nuts on some holes on some of my frames, but placement appears inconsistent.

I forgot to label them, but I think it's interesting that the slots for mounting the front end of the small foot rests are still included on these frames to accomodate the 73 model.

Holes 7 and 8 were apparently added with the 1x6, 1x7 tractors. Holes 4, 9, 10, & 12 were not present on my 123.

Please correct any errors and provide any additional information. If you know that certain holes were never used or that they were used for fixuring, I'd consider that valuable info.

Thanks,
Jerry

 

[mstetar]

lyle the motor will bole right up, the deep pan just makes it a bit of a PIA to get in and out, but it can be done...everything should bolt right up!

of course that is assuming you have the 3 pin clutch driver for the motor....

 

[mgonitzke]

Jerry-

I think that 5 and 6 are 'leftovers' from the 70/100 and are a provision for bolting on the Original's timed deck. I'm gonna guess 7, 9, and 10 are for the hydraulic lift addon on the right side.

 

[mstetar]

do the loaders use any of those holes?

 

[dross]

Bobby, cam looks good.

 

[lbury]

Thanks a lot, Matt. I have a clutch driver that I got from Muncie, by the way, thanks, Jerry for the driver. I just set the motor down in the frame, didn`t want to drop in, now that I know it will fit, I`ll make some "adjustments" thanks again guys............Lyle

 

[jpatchett]

Jerry,

My thought is that both the right and left side frame rails started as flat steel plate that was identically punched, hence both sides have equal holes, notches, relief’s, etc. Then each plate was formed or stamped to be a right or left side frame rail. This is a common practice in manufacturing to keep is simple and cost effective.

Older versions of the frame would account for some extra holes on both sides that are not used on 1x6 & 1x7 models.

R7 & R8 on your diagram are for the electric lift mount bar/brace.

Jim

 

[wcompton]

9, 10, and 12 are for the hydraulic lift attachment, 7 and 8 are for the electric lift kit (if anyone actually ever put one on)