Archive through September 25, 2012
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Mike P,
Engine timing on a Kohler is set by the gap of the points which is recommended to be at 0.020". However, using the static timing method as described on Matt Gonitzke's website http://mgonitzke.net16.net/ (see "How To's") or in the Kohler manual works well and is a more precise method.
From your description of the way your engine is running, you may have a bad condenser. If adjusting the points gap doesn't fix the problem, I'd recommend you get a new one and make sure you have the lead wire attached to the negative terminal on the coil, same side as the wire running to your points. Also check that wire for signs of the insulation damage which could cause it to short out, especially at the wire retainer clips. Hope this helps.
Engine timing on a Kohler is set by the gap of the points which is recommended to be at 0.020". However, using the static timing method as described on Matt Gonitzke's website http://mgonitzke.net16.net/ (see "How To's") or in the Kohler manual works well and is a more precise method.
From your description of the way your engine is running, you may have a bad condenser. If adjusting the points gap doesn't fix the problem, I'd recommend you get a new one and make sure you have the lead wire attached to the negative terminal on the coil, same side as the wire running to your points. Also check that wire for signs of the insulation damage which could cause it to short out, especially at the wire retainer clips. Hope this helps.
hydroharry
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Mike P - changing the gap on your points is how you adjust the timing. Mike G pointed out previously that setting the points at the Kohler spec of .020 hardly ever gets the timing correct. .020 is usually a good starting point to get a unit running so you can set the timing with the active timing method (timing light) which I prefer. In your case with backfiring you need to use the static method (which many believe is extremely accurate). You really need to make sure the timing is correct which ever method you use.
(under edit - I see Ron S beat me to the post)
Amy, Amy, Amy - your blondeness is coming out. I do think you learned something but maybe my info didn't provide enough details. Narrow frames refer to the early IHCC units that are approx 11" wide across the front of the frame. For instance, the 71, 102, 122 and 123 are early narrow frame units. It's easy to decifer exactly what the model is by looking at the model number, i.e. - if the last digit is an even number (in your case a 2) then it's a gear drive unit, and the 2 digits before that identify the engine hp (in your case 10hp). This works for all the units except the 2 digit 7hp units which are all gear drive and just numbered consecutively. The 1x8/1x9 series introduced the wide frame or WF where the frame is spread to approx 13" at the front of the tractor. IH did this to accomodate the bigger hp engines like 14hp and 16hp. The WF designations still identify the type of tractor and hp, i.e. - a 149 is a hydro unit since the last digit is an odd number, and the 14 identifies the hp of the engine. Nothing in any of the designations identifies it as a NF or WF. You just have to know which series is which.
Hope this helps.
(under edit - I see Ron S beat me to the post)
Amy, Amy, Amy - your blondeness is coming out. I do think you learned something but maybe my info didn't provide enough details. Narrow frames refer to the early IHCC units that are approx 11" wide across the front of the frame. For instance, the 71, 102, 122 and 123 are early narrow frame units. It's easy to decifer exactly what the model is by looking at the model number, i.e. - if the last digit is an even number (in your case a 2) then it's a gear drive unit, and the 2 digits before that identify the engine hp (in your case 10hp). This works for all the units except the 2 digit 7hp units which are all gear drive and just numbered consecutively. The 1x8/1x9 series introduced the wide frame or WF where the frame is spread to approx 13" at the front of the tractor. IH did this to accomodate the bigger hp engines like 14hp and 16hp. The WF designations still identify the type of tractor and hp, i.e. - a 149 is a hydro unit since the last digit is an odd number, and the 14 identifies the hp of the engine. Nothing in any of the designations identifies it as a NF or WF. You just have to know which series is which.
Hope this helps.
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- Brian Branstetter
Just curious how picky I should get cleaning the rear end out on the 782. I'm doing a new filter and hy-tran and didn't know if I should get a couple cans of parts cleaner and hose it down or not. The inside was pretty clean other than the water trapped jelly on the top and sides of the case. On my 122 I would just wipe it out and refill but wasn't sure that was to good of an idea with the hydro...
DENNIS FRISK & MIKE PATTERSON (and any others with Onan experience). Thought it best that I try to post some pictures of my mysterious Onan breather hose question, on my IH CC 982.
The first picture shows right side of engine with enclosure removed, and hose with blue tape on it is the breather hose that is connected to top of case - that just runs forward and is open to atmosphere under the PTO.
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The next picture is close up showing the vacuum hose to fuel pump (with silver tape on it) and the cable from alternator to rectifier (with purple tape on it).
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The last picture shows another view, with crankcase breather in background (has hose on top that goes to air cleaner).
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Does anybody else with an Onan have this breather hose, and does it put out any oil or some oil? I almost wonder if the hose is needed, since it has a crankcase breather? Comments?
The first picture shows right side of engine with enclosure removed, and hose with blue tape on it is the breather hose that is connected to top of case - that just runs forward and is open to atmosphere under the PTO.
The next picture is close up showing the vacuum hose to fuel pump (with silver tape on it) and the cable from alternator to rectifier (with purple tape on it).
The last picture shows another view, with crankcase breather in background (has hose on top that goes to air cleaner).
Does anybody else with an Onan have this breather hose, and does it put out any oil or some oil? I almost wonder if the hose is needed, since it has a crankcase breather? Comments?
hydroharry
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Don T - way up there on the other side of the border - well, I wouldn't say IH "spread" the frame on a 147. I believe if you look closely you'll see they cut the frame and then welded in a piece of steel to fit around the flywheel shroud of that 14hp K. And they only did it on 1 side of the frame. As you know it's still an NF tractor, 11" wide at the front.- (picky, picky, picky
) And by the way, looks like you have some nice tires on that 147.
Amy (under edit) you're back - I still sense some confusion. Sorry about my memory loss thinking you had a 102. Yes the first two digits of your 104 are 10 and they denote a 10hp engine, and yes the even number 4 denotes a gear drive tractor. Yes your 104 is a member of the 1x4/1x5 series, which those of us in the know, know that is a NF tractor.
Amy (under edit) you're back - I still sense some confusion. Sorry about my memory loss thinking you had a 102. Yes the first two digits of your 104 are 10 and they denote a 10hp engine, and yes the even number 4 denotes a gear drive tractor. Yes your 104 is a member of the 1x4/1x5 series, which those of us in the know, know that is a NF tractor.
Don T.-
You ever gonna get those seat springs right on that 147? You posted a pic of it out in the yard a couple of years ago and I noticed them then. I bet your back would feel a lot better after riding.
Sharp looking tractor!...and one of my personal favorites.
You ever gonna get those seat springs right on that 147? You posted a pic of it out in the yard a couple of years ago and I noticed them then. I bet your back would feel a lot better after riding.
Sharp looking tractor!...and one of my personal favorites.
