Archive through September 06, 2012

[hydroharry]

Hey Art - thanks for the release of the closely guarded statistics on the infamous and highly sought after Model 169. I've been waiting and wondering for some time. Your satistics on the nearly even split between 12 and 13 fin engines used in the Model 169, are not actually surprising to me, especially with the short production run of 4005 units over what may have been 8 months . This must certainly be the shortest model production run of any CC units. Now, with regard to the actual block and 13 vs. 12 cooling fins, it would seem to me the 13 fin would be more desireable not only because of the meat on the casting (and maybe some would argue 13 fins provide more cooling), but also because Kohler must have made many more 12 fin units due to the 5 year production run of the 1650. (I believe the 1650 was introduced in late 1974 and continued until 1979). These Kohler engines were also used in alot of the other off-topic applications but most other blocks are not direct fit to a Cub Cadet, so the 13 fin has to be the rarest (although I obviously don't have the factual data to support this).
Still, I suppose I'm partial since I have one of these rare Model 169's with a rare 13 cooling fin Kohler K341A - AND I LOVE IT!!!!!
There is no question Cub Cadets are One Tough Tractor.

 

[jsalatino]

Nice lookin 169! Got 1 of them on the list! lol " who doesnt right ? " Bet thing is a workhorse! Rims look great too

 

[hydroharry]

Hey Jonathan - yes mine is on Art's list. Thanks for the compliment on my 169, and thanks for noticing the rims. My unit does have what I call, some pre-production and post production changes. You may have noticed I have the wide offset front wheels (these are from a narrow frame tractor so I call them a pre-production change since they were made before the 169). I like the stance they provide. I also use the hood hinge from a Quiet Line series tractor since the piano style hinge was prone to breaking. (This is a post production change since it was made after the 169. I also have the late version of the Quiet Line steering wheel with the silver IH on the center cap. This wheel is slightly thicker and I like the feel of it better than the original. There are a few other improvements as well, but not many. I still have the original parts in case I need to or decide to convert back to all original. (One thing I don't have tho is the original Quiet style air cleaner. Mine is from an '82 series, so it's another post production change).

 

[lhinds]

On the gasoline discusion, I use non ethanol 87 octane in all my small engines. I pour about 5 ounces MMO in my five gallon gas can and the fill it with gas. I very rarely have to decarbon a head or blow a head gasket. The gas in the tractors never get drained. I just add gas when they run out.I let my 1250 set for two years and it started right up with the two year old gas. I buy farmers co-op gas so it could be blended a little different. I get 3 more mpg on my 2011 truck with the co-op gas. But can not tell the difference in the 87 and 93 octane. This gas is about .10 a gallon higher and probally worth the difference in price. Just rambling.

 

[fcurrier]

Mark Roseman: On the starter/generator nut issue: I just spun one on a 123 and it was my own d....d fault. This 123 is a bit out of time and would kick back on the starter. Yep, once too many times! Fortunately had a spare so will have to rebuild the spun one this winter.

 

[bjamison]

Out with the old...

In with the new...

I keep pulling parts bought/used on the 1650 for this 109, I might have nothing left to put back together...

 

[jbaker]

Art, I thought I sent you my 169 info but its not in sent box so maybe not.

here goes.... tractor seiral 523095 engine k341 spec 7115A with no engine serial number 12 fin block

 

[rmcshane]

Art and Harry- I know that 2 of the three running 169's I own have the 13 fin 16hp Kohler in them, and they are the original engines. I just got #4 running this summer with a fresh overhaul and it runs great with tons of power. #2 is currently in the shop getting an overhaul. #1 has the 12 fin 16hp replacement engine. I put that engine in from #3 169 I bought. #3 is currently torn down and awaiting an engine. Next time I am home I will try and get you the serial numbers of the tractors and engines from the 169's and the 1650.

 

[bwittman]

Bill,

That is a fine looking seat! That model is certainly a popular one.

It is too bad that the pan isn't IH white. It is fortunate that it doesn't take much to make it look like the original thing. I will be doing that with mine next summer.

 

[hydroharry]

Bill J - I think those high back seats are the perfect match for the wide frame tractors. Just something about the way they look matching the overall tractor size, shape of fenders, etc. And it looks like you got one of the nice ones with good foam and vinyl. Now, if you have plans to possibly move the seat over to that "Top of the Line 1650", I hope you used short mounting bolts (about 1/2" long) and put some grease on the threads. The foam inside the seat collects moisture and the dang bolts always get rusty and hard to remove, to the point they either snap off or break the nut tab on the inside of the seat. Just my recommendation.

Ryan, Ryan, Ryan, Ryan - you got 4, you got 4 you got 4, you got 4, Model 169's! Dang, you better keep'm well locked up.

 

[thoffman]

Art, Those look pretty good. Maybe you should close the "Hi-Tech" booth.

 

[jchamberlin]

Guys, I just stumbled across a U-tube video of how to remove a mechanical PTO clutch. I have read many accounts of others on this topic, but this video clarified a few things for me. However, not everything depicted in the video jived with what I've learned (or thought I had learned) from this site. I wondered what you guys thought of it.

I will likely have to remove the clutch in my 149 someday, and I want to be as prepared as possible.

"Mechanical Clutch Removal Video".

Enjoy!

 

[jchamberlin]

I can't resist the impulse to share. I feel like someone on this site had something to do with the following video link, but in any case, all the images come from the Wisconsin Historical Society. I have seen several of the images on this site before, but the presentation makes a nice montage.

"Cub Cadet Original Production Shot Sequence"

I don't often post links like this, it must be the fact its Friday, the work week is done & I'm at home, or the moon phase, or something . . ..

 

[wcompton]

Art-
My 169 data is on its way!

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - thanks for posting the link to the PTO clutch removal video. I thought it was done pretty well. I was really surprised how easy it was to remove the 6 set screws. That hardly ever happens. Also, one part I didn't agree with was removing the bearing. Either the locking collar was not on correctly to begin with, or they rotated it without showing that part in the video. I just don't think you can get that bearing off once the locking collar is in place correctly. I was also surprised when they removed the basket pulley. It's nice having 4 hands and 2 pry bars, but I would never want to pound on the crankshaft with a hammer. I would have definitely sanded the rust off the crank first, and then oiled it, before attempting to remove the pulley. I would also have tapped the pulley 1/16inch or so toward the block to make sure I got all the rust cleaned off the crank and that there were no burrs, especially on the key way. One little burr and that basket pulley would be bent before coming off. Overall the video is a nice demonstration - but it was certainly an "easy" removal compared to most I've done. (Use of the PB Blaster is a good idea but I also would have left it on longer before beginning).

Jeremiah (under edit) - your link to the Cub Cadet Production shot just takes you to the PTO Clutch removal. Please post the link again.

Wyatt - that's One Tough Tractor (but you better put the brake on so it doesn't roll away)

 

[jbaker]

Jeremiah, "ditto" to Harry's post

 

[dschwandt]

I kinda got a kick outta it!
The very first tool he picks up is a BFH!!!

Dave S

 

[mpatterson]

Wyatt,
You have a picture of that cub from the front? Like to see what the ags look like from the front. You guys and your 169's. Gotta love them.

Any updates on that sweet plow your working on Steve?

 

[dcmay]

It has been somtime since I bitched about my 1450 but I've got to get it off my chest.I have put on it new, the following:Ign sw,PTO switch, Coil,Condensor,Voltage regulator & Ign points.I also pulled a new wire through the engine to the coil.I replaced the carb with one that runs great on another 14hp.The only thing I haven't replaced is the wire harness.Could that be my problem?
It runs fine for the first 10 min or until it gets hot.It then starts to miss,slows down,back fires once & quits.Hit the starter 1 second after it dies,it starts immediately,runs perfectly for another few min and repeats the shut down.Somthing must be getting hot and causing this but I don't know what it could be.I have had this 1450 for sometime and mentioned this before on the forum.Someone suggested it could be a valve hanging up but if it were a valve hanging up I wouldn't think it would unhang itself 1 second after it hung it's self.It will run a long time at half throttle but I am supposed to mow at full throttle.I still think that is in the manual to wear them out twice as fast.
Any suggestions?
Dan

 

[nbextermueller]

Daniel C.

Have you checked the head gasket? A blown gasket could cause those things. Also, it sounds like a timing issue. Did you replace the points pushrod when you did the points? They can wear and flatten and cause it to be out of time a few degrees. Or heaven forbid the cam be worn enough to just not run right.