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Archive through September 06, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Harry: Try this: "Cub Cadet Original Production Shots" I pasted the following link into my browser and it came up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqDPbalio0s&feature=related.

I had almost the exact same thoughts upon watching the video of the PTO Clutch removal (except the "experienced" part), so I'm glad to learn I had not completely misunderstood previous posts on the topic.

Like others before me, I deeply appreciate your response.
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Edit: If all else fails, do a search on the title of the video: "IH Cub Cadet Original."
 
Mike-
Just a little while back I posted some pictures ( Saturday, Aug 11) that shows a front view. To be honest, I'm not happy with them, and the 6-ply Titans are a BEAR to wrestle onto an 8" rim. Lug tires on the front steer pretty hard, or so it seems compared to other tires. Prior to these I ran some Carlisle Turf Masters that, in hindsight, did very well. In the hopefully near future I'll be adding some V61's.
 
Daniel M - I think Nic's info is your best bet. That little points pushrod does wear and with the points set at the correct gap your timing will still be off. If you have a timing light use it to set the timing. YOu might find the points have to be adjusted closer to .025 before you get the timing to 20degrees BTDC. I think the FAQ's may have a static method to set the timing if you don't have a timing light. These Kohler engines will still start and run even with the timing way off and nearly TDC, but you'll burn a hole thru the piston, which is how I got my first 1450. (Bought it at a JD dealer. Guy traded it in after he burnt a hole in the piston). I used to check and adjust my timing couple times a year. It would be off a few degress and I like keeping it exact. If setting the timing doesn't fix it, then the next thing to look at is the head gasket. A blown gasket can give you all kinds of symtoms, that come and go quickly. But it also could still be a valve. Also, you said it backfires - make sure the muffler is clear. Stick something in front of the muffler (not your hand) and make sure it's got plenty of exhaust pressure. If should blow a piece of paper right out of the way. If it just puffs then your muffler is likely fallen apart inside. And finally, it's been discussed and mentioned several times, the Kohler engine is designed to get the best cooling running at 3600-3800 rpms. Running at half throttle won't cool it sufficiently, and when it's already enclosed in a 1450 you've not gonna move the air enough to cool it sufficiently. If it truly wore the tractor out faster you wouldn't hardly see any 1450s or any Cub Cadets around - but they are there, and alot of them are 1450s still running great. Keep us informed of how you make out.

Jeremiah - thanks for reposting the link. It works now and it's a great bunch of pictures. I'll have to look at it several times and study each one. Ooh, and one more thing on the PTO clutch removal. The bar tool they used to remove the clutch pulley was really to big. I'd use something smaller and thinner and tap on it rather than hit on it. I also like to rotate it rather than switch side I was hitting on. Once you get it to start moving off the bearing you can tap lighter as well and help avoid damaging the grove in the pulley. Remember these guys in the video are parting out the tractor - they are not repairing it so for the most part time is money to them. They don't have to file the dings in the pulley, it still sells and someone else can clean it up.
 
Daniel Corwin May: When faced with a situation like yours, I think it best to back up and conduct a formal trouble-shooting exercise. For instance, you seem to have replaced just about everything electrical on the tractor, but have you been able to verify that the problem is indeed electrical?

Formal Trouble-shooting proceeds by trying to "cut the problem in half" and working on the half that seems to be the problem and then cutting it in half and so on until the problem is identified and resolved.

In the case of an engine, three things are needed for it to run: Fire, Fuel, and Compression. You've been working hard at eliminating Fire as the issue, have you considered Fuel? Valve issues would come under the Compression head.

Consider the possible symptoms of fuel starvation.

If the engine is starved for fuel, it might die at full throttle, but start again as soon as the bowl refills. It might also run at half-throttle, but refuse to run at full-throttle because it can't get the volume of fuel it needs from the tank.

I would work my way back up from the carburetor to the tank, replacing the line and fuel filter (if you use one) and flushing out the tank really well, including the removal of the "tap" to which the fuel line attaches --it often has a screen attached to it on the inside of the tank.

It doesn't cost much to replace the fuel line and filter and this way you've done a lot to eliminate the "third leg" of the engine-running triangle. Another thing to watch is the type of fuel filter you're using, I don't think the 1450 uses a fuel pump, so you need a filter designed for gravity-fed systems. Kohler makes such a filter and I would use it before using one designed for automotive applications.

If re-working the fuel line and tank doesn't resolve the issue, I would invest in a diagnostic tool to verify that the the engine is indeed losing its fire. Advance Auto sells 2-3 different types of spark testers, NAPA sells one made by Briggs & Stratton, the Kohler manual recommends taking the electrode off a known-good plug: anything to get you to where you can see if you have a good spark. In your case, a tool that you could hook up in-line with the plug and use while the engine is running would help you verify that when the engine dies it is doing so because it has no spark, or "Fire."

Or, you could start with the "Fire" test and if it is not conclusive, move to the "Fuel" issue. Only if you have verified that you have Fire and Fuel, would I start investigating the Compression issue. In your case, I imagine, but have no experience of, a sticking valve with a weak spring. It could possibly be sticking while hot, and not needing very much cooling before the spring pops it back into place; but I think the Fuel issue is far more likely if you haven't yet eliminated it as an issue. Also, you can typically hear a valve "pop" if it is re-setting itself while cooling.

My two cents. I know that when your tractor doesn't run right, your patience can be severely tested; but it is experiences like this from which "experts" are born.
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I mentioned a while back that I bought a 16 hp Kohler K431 and it turns out it is the correct spec engine for my 1650 - which presently has a 14 hp engine. Last night I pulled the oil pan and everything appears to be intact, don't see any balance gears. Don't know if the QL engines came with them?

Pulled the head and found the top of the piston adjustant to the exaust valve was eroded enough that you can see the ring. The bore is very smooth - no scoring that I can see.

What would have caused the piston erosion around the skirt of the piston at the exhaust valve? Lean running engine?

There's lots of oil on the side of this engne, caked on it everywhere.

I'm hoping that I can avoid a total rebuild on this engine, but we'll see.

I also need to get myself equipped to take engine measurements - cylinder bore, crank diameters, etc. Not sure I want to go to harbor freight for a set of micrometers, etc., but at the same time I also don't want to spend more on tools than two or three tractors combined!

What do you recommend do with respect to the engine/piston and any advise with regard to measurement tools would be appreciated.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.I've got lots more trouble shooting to do.Will keep you informed.
Dan
 
Daniel C. I had the same problem with a 1650 a few weeks ago. I eliminated the wiring harness by running a wire from the bat+ terminal directly to the coil. The new out of the box coil I tried didn't solve the problem, it still quit running after a few minutes. It has the old coil from my pickup on it now and runs fine.
 
Daniel M.-

Have you checked for a mouse nest? They seem to like building them right behind the muffler in the muffler box or on top of the flywheel. Compressed air should tell you whether you have one or not.
 
Jeremiah I like the production video, anyone know what the sign says at 1:23 mark, and I wonder where all those in the line up at the end went to.

thinking about mowing some weeds now...
 
Bill J.

Most of the stuff I have bought from Harbor Freight was crap, cheap made China stuff. Never again! I wouldn't trust them for micrometer accuracy or longevity. I, also, tooled up to do Kohler engines and bought most of my name brand tools off ebay. There was plenty offered and I wasn't in a hurry and just waited & watched for the good stuff at a good price. Just a thought...
 
thank you Donald
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you are the man that worked perfect getting the hydro back in adjesment. thanks again this sight rocks
 
Regarding removal of the front PTO

A mechanical PTO is easy to remove granted the set screws come out easily.
 
Charlie or Kraig can you fix the stretch job in the Off Topic Classifieds??? thanks
 
Wow! That 782 does a great job at cutting the grass.
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The motor is phenomenal and has a better feel than the Onan. At least in my opinion..... Makes me wonder if the hour meter on it is correct @ 438 hours. The white needle hasn't moved that I've noticed so I took a picture of it tonight so I can keep track of it.

Looked a little closer tonight and noticed that it still has an origianl IH muffler on it. No rust on it at all as far as I can tell. Deck needs all new gauge wheels and blade sharpened not to mention a paint job to match the tractor. Also had an issue with the starter switch tonight, might be time for a new one.
 
I have been a member here for awhile and gotten loads of useful information and I want to thank all for that. I read about removal of the steering wheel using an air chisel and had the need to remove one from my 1450. I was concerned about flaring the end of the shaft (I left the nut on it and had the nut extended above the end of the shaft). After spraying with PB Blaster and waiting 15 minutes or so I took a bolt that fit inside the shaft and punched a dimple in it, put a washer on it so that the chisel sat in the dimple and vibrated against the head of the bolt and washer up against the nut. Took about 30 seconds to remove the steering wheel. I do have a question for Steve Blunier. I love the look of the dual plow you made but I have to ask. Is the purpose of the shaft the goes from the front of the plow to the rearmost wheel used to center the plow during transportation? It looks to me that extending the cylinder lowers that wheel and turns it at the same time so that it does not extend past the side of the tractor.
 
Jeff-
Thanks for the update on your 169 info. We already had it in the database, but now a question..

I originally had 523059 as the tractor serial number, but now you list 523095. When you get a chance, let me know which is correct.

Thanks!
 
I know it may be
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ed by Charlie, but I think he may want to be bidding on this item anyhow. I'll be the big boy and take the
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anyway.
Enjoy. Item number: 110949611936

Yep, I'll be more than happy to
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that link for ya Tom.
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Charlie
 
Art hows this....sorry about the error

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Tom....too bad the knife didn"t have free shipping
 

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