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Archive through June 05, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Lrehm,
To avoid dealing with the mess, why not trade the mounted wheels/tires/fluid to somebody in your area for something less problematic?

Mbroz,
It's good to get several points of view expressed on here. I wouldn't worry about the "ruckus". If Ken was posting, THEN you might see a ruckus...

Porter/Jim,
-.-. .- -. / -.-- --- ..- / ... . -. -.. / .--. .. -.-. - ..- .-. . ... / .. -. / -.-. --- -.. . / ..--..
 
Hi all, and welcome from balmy upstate NY. I'm hoping that one of you learned folk can save me a weekend of carb work... I have a 128 that wouldn't cut tall grass, and being sans manual or this forum, I figured "engine power loss = new points, plug and condenser". Always worked on the VW... replaced all three, also treated it with that engine Gunk stuff, now it runs terribly. Side note: turns out all I had to do was adjust the PTO clutch. D'oh! Anyway, the plug if fouled now, carb screw adjustments don't help and I figure somehow the Gunk stuff is gunking my weekend. Given that I am blind to the obvious (says my wife), does anyone see anything I missed that means I don't need to mess with the carb? P.S. doublechecked the points and reset the idle screws, didn't help
 
Mike M: Rule of Thumb: Always mix fuel additives in your fuel container and mix thoroughly - never directly to the gas tank!! If you didn't do that, like other products, if added direct to the gas tank, it likely settled to the bottom of the tank and all you are getting to the carb is mostly "Gunk Stuff". If you did indeed add that stuff directly into the tank, you probably need to drain the tank, fuel lines and carb bowl. Also just remove the loooong hi-speed needle and ensure it's clean. Take a spritz can of carb cleaner and put the little red tube to the bottom (pointed end) hole(s) of the needle and "spritz" it. If /when you get spritz cleaner blowing out the mid and upper level holes, replace and adjust IAW the manual.

Myron B
 
Bruce I do not think so
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Thanks Myron, I'll bet that's it. Actually, the Gunk referred to was the degreaser, but I forgot to mention that I'd added carb cleaner/fuel additive to the tank. So it looks like it's time for some on-the-job carb training
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Dennis T.
Well at least your still alive and kickin.
And we fully expect to see you posting more often!!

Your more than welcome to head UP NORTH for a visit. I've got more room than I know what to do with right now.
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Charlie:
I thought the movie was "NO MORE WIRE HANGERS!!!!!"

BTW - in reference to Bob's Paint and Decal page - has anyone ever proven any of that paint info incorrect? I've always taken it as gospel......
 
Hey guys the points trick worked! thanks any info on how to clean the starter? and my plug is a champion hioc do they still make them? Thank you
 
Porter,
No not annoying just that curiosity killed the cat,
Took me awhile to find the answer.~~~LOL

You must be Navy or a ham operator.

that loves Cubs. {to keep it on topic.}

Bruce, No I can't do that can you ?~~LOL
 
And I was worried about some runs in the paint on the 104! After looking at some of the posts and checking the original paint on my 106, I guess I can just leave them where they are!!
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With any luck, a 3 pont hitch will follow me home tomorrow.... Got to head down to east of Cortland NY to pick one up, and at a good price....
You guys up here in NY that are looking for a cub, there has been a lot for sale on CL lately.... including a restored 107, but I already have one of those...

My 107 will get the 14 out of my 149, after a small flywheel conversion... this way i can plow with the 107, and till with the 149... I will post pics when it dows follow me home...
 
I am trying to replace the axle pivor bolt in my 149 that sheared off right behind the front axle. I took the whells off and disconnected all the tie rods but the existing pin potruding behind the axle is hung up on the frame and the axle won't drop. Any suggestions?
 
Sigh... drained the fuel tank & bowl, sprayed carb cleaner through the long jet, but still runs terrible. I can put the throttle in the middle and it runs OK under no load - but either add load or push up the throttle and it starts hunting and missing. I'm going to check the point gap again (arrggghhh!), I don't think they could have slipped, I really cranked down on the screw and checked after, but it's all I can think of. When the air filter is off and it finally dies, white smoke puffs out the throttle body - so I guess that's timing, and thus points. Sure wish I hadn't messed with it...
 
Walt B:
That shouldn't be a bolt, the axle pivot is just a 3/4" (actually a little bigger than 3/4" IIRC) pin, with a roll pin through it crossways on the back side that you have to drive out before driving the pivot pin forwards..and I hate to tell you, but 99% of us remove the engine to do this, so you can drive that pin out.. See a couple of pics here....
 
Scott, I was going to go up to Cortland and pick up that 3-point! I wouldnt be able to get the money for it till pay day which is next week! It did look really nice though. I offered that guy a little less than his asking price but he was pretty set on how much he wanted. Overall an excellent deal though! I look online often and found a few things I would like to pick up, there is a 147 in Lindley for $500 that is just about a ten minute drive I might go look at.
 
Myron Bounds, I am trying to reach you! Your e-mail address from your website wont work for me.
 
I picked up a 104 parts tractor today and was wondering if the steering shaft assembly would interchange with a 100. I noticed the parts number is different. thanks
 
Is there any way to bench test the charging functionality of a starter/generator? I'm considering the purchase of a K241 that's a couple hours' drive away, and they guy says the s/g starts the engine, but he never had an ammeter hooked up to see if it'd charge.
 
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