Archive through February 10, 2006

[kmcconaughey]

Lonny, I've never tried this but Jim S. posted this many years ago, what he called the "Chain & Yank" method:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Take a long chain and wrap it around the PTO pulley groove. Use a bolt and nut through the chain to tighten it into the groove. If all
the set screws are out, you should be able to whip the chain and the PTO clutch casting will come right off.

If not all screws are out, or if it's real stuck, then use a U-shaped loop of chain from one side of the piece fastened in the pulley groove to the
other. Then attach a chain to the center of that loop, and hook it to a second CC or truck. Chock the wheels and lock the brake of the sick CC,
then jerk the chain taught with yer pull machine. Last resort, but it works.

Best way to help it off is to spray Blaster from Wally World into each set screw hole and let it do its magic first.

Chain trick was learned from a helluva Cub Cadet man named McGiver. Don't see him on here much anymore.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - I never liked whipping chains around inside My shop with large heavy pieces of cast iron stuck to the end of them. I'm not quite as accident prone as Tim the Toolman Taylor but I am quite allergic to PAIN.... I just use a gear puller on the PTO's. The center thrust button bottoms out on the end of the crankshaft after it destroys the triangular spring and the clutch levers fall out of their slot. 90% of the time those springs and thrust buttons all need to be replaced anyhow.

 

[bmcmeen]

I'm with Denny - use a puller.

 

[stanner]

Lonny
I've had some success using a picklefork (aka ball joint separator) and a BFH (aka ford tool)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, I'd have to agree with you. As I stated, I've never used this method but if it originally came from McGiver it must work. I guess it's best saveed for a last ditch effort.

 

[jhines]

I will get more photos of the hydraulics my grandfather made. I will have difficulty explaining it so I will take several photos.

 

[tcarter]

Ted- I was told by someone else here that since a blower does not require any down force an easy replacement for the lift rod is to use chain. I am using a cable with clamps on my QA36A and it works well and easy to adjust for height.

 

[lbuttke]

Well after soaking the pto in PB blaster over night and useing a varation of the chain whip (I used a tie down strap)method I managed to get the pto off.
I also used a pry bar and a BFH to assist in the removal.
It still amazes me how much holding power rust has.
Now to work on the bearing on the shaft, more PB blaster soaking, some heat from my blue tip wrench and hopefully it will slide off after I remove the set screws.

 

[jzimmerman]

When I needed to pull my PTO off a couple of years ago, the folks here gave me good advice. Instead of whipping a chain around, I was able to use a short length of chain in the pulley groove, bolted tight, and three finger pullers on a 5 pound slide hammer worked into the mix.

Came right off.

Almost every time I use a BFH it costs me money. Very satisfying, but it can get expensive.

 

[lbuttke]

What I did was to wrap the tie down strap around in the grove of the pto, hook a come-a-long to the tie down and tighten it, than pry on the back side of the pto with the pry bar and tap on the pto with the BFH.
It took some time, lot of tension, and tapping on the pto but it came off ever so slowly.

After getting the pto off I started up the motor and it nolonger had the anoying knock, so it was the pto makeing the noise all along.
Thankfully it was the pto, I did not whant to have to find someone to rebuild the 12hp motor.

 

[dkirk]

This works for me regarding lift rod length. Use a clevis on the rod end...allows for length adjustment and gives a nicer appearance. Clevis is available from NAPA for about $10.00.

Digger - Thanks for noticing. I'm proud to be a sponsor of this fine forum.

 

[tcbusch]

Last night I mounted the transmission and put the axles on jack stands and ran the tractor for about 45 minutes again. Tonight I noticed more hytran on the floor.

I guess the stub trunnion shaft seal wasn't the only leak I had. After looking carefully with a bright light I found the leak. It was that dang front cork gasket!!

Anyways, the gasket is replaced and the hydro is reassembled. I did find a few extra gems stuck in the return hole on the hydro. What do you suppose these are from?

I know what your thinking. Its time for a hydro rebuild. Well it ran OK before I pulled the hydro so it should run fine after. Even though it has fewer pieces of metal.

And if it breaks I'll just have to tear it apart again. Tomorrow I will try running the leak test again to see if any other leaks are found.

I think I might know why it started leaking in the first place. Late last summer I need to fix the drive shaft and the drive shaft coupler on the hydro. To remove the coupler pin I held a center punch against the pin with one hand and used my air hammer with the other hand, all while laying on my back with dirt falling in my eyes.

It must have been the hammering of the air chisel that loosened up the hydro enough to make it leak. I guess the method in the manual would be preferred. They recommend blocking up the coupler with wood before hitting it with the hammer. This way the shock is absorbed through the wood blocking and not the hydro. I guess you should not only

but you should also do what it says.

 

[digger]

The forum will soon have a new look!
http://tinyurl.com/e25yy

 

[stanner]

Charlie

ROTFLMAO!!!

Fo'shizzle!!

 

[rkruger]

Charlie...
Now where did you get that Idea?

 

[digger]

Robb,
I ain't tellin, LOL

 

[rroth]

Howdy,,
Ray Roth back again,,, now in Idaho and still working on my 125... I need some help talking about hydraulic linkages,,, I have the pump.
also, can anyone help me contact Dan Hoefler regarding his crawler conversion...
Regards,
Ray Roth 208 476 9201
[email protected]

 

[dallen]

Yea, what Scott said!

 

[rkruger]

Lurker!

Kruger....

 

[dallen]

Thats still allowed around here, right?