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Archive through February 10, 2006
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Terry if you get down to Owatonna there is a hydro repair shop outside of town on the south side that does a lot of sunstrand hydros. You might even want to check and see what he would charge ya to replace the seal. Might be cheaper than causing a lot of frustration to have the experts do it.
CHARLIE - Nice 149! When You get it You can pull all the alum. treadplate off and sell it for more than You pay for the tractor! I took two small 30 gal. garbage bags of uncrushed soda/beer cans in to the recycling center Saturday AM and got almost $7.00 for My efforts. Since I didn't have anything else to do Saturday afternoon I pulled the engine from the 129 to modify the engine into a "Large Flywheel 12 HP K-301"..... so then I can make a "Small Flywheel K-321" for My 72.... And then the 70 will become a 100 at some later date with the K-241 from the 72..... Not sure what I'm going to do to the K-181 that's in the 70 now.... It's really tired.... but I don't really want another small block sitting around. Probably end up in something of Dad's.
tbordeleau
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- ted Bordeleau
Regarding Terry's hydro trunnion wear/repair:
I bought the springs and caps to do mine, just waiting for a time to take it apart to do the welding. Question: HOW does it wear so much to the outboard (left) side, since the speed control moves front-to-back?
WHY does this wear to the outside cause slop front-to-back?
Just wondering out loud, I can't understand that wear pattern.
I bought the springs and caps to do mine, just waiting for a time to take it apart to do the welding. Question: HOW does it wear so much to the outboard (left) side, since the speed control moves front-to-back?
WHY does this wear to the outside cause slop front-to-back?
Just wondering out loud, I can't understand that wear pattern.
OH MYYYY!
A new sponsor at the top of the page! COOL!
A new sponsor at the top of the page! COOL!
Ted,
I suspect its due to the design. Look at these two pictures I made. The one on the left is the unit at rest. The one on the right is showing what happens when you try to move either forward or backwards. Notice I exaggerated the misalignment of the trunion and the linkage. When the linkage moves and the two parts are not perfectly aligned you get side loading. Similar to when you take a standard compression spring and push it between your thumb and finger. It bends out in the middle. That middle "bow" causes the wear. The more the wear the bigger the bow. The bigger the bow the more wear. As for why the outside wears first is probaby concidence or the spring is alays offset to the outside from the factory.
I suspect its due to the design. Look at these two pictures I made. The one on the left is the unit at rest. The one on the right is showing what happens when you try to move either forward or backwards. Notice I exaggerated the misalignment of the trunion and the linkage. When the linkage moves and the two parts are not perfectly aligned you get side loading. Similar to when you take a standard compression spring and push it between your thumb and finger. It bends out in the middle. That middle "bow" causes the wear. The more the wear the bigger the bow. The bigger the bow the more wear. As for why the outside wears first is probaby concidence or the spring is alays offset to the outside from the factory.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Terry
I think you're on to somethin'....
Perhaps one could redesign the way the plate contacts the spring? Perhaps a piece of keystock tacked on both sides of the plate (4 pieces) to help the spring compress squarely...
My plate's 5/8" bore was work out to 0.72-ish, i am going to put a bushing in it tomorrow to get back to 5/8"...
(Message edited by stanner on February 13, 2006)
I think you're on to somethin'....
Perhaps one could redesign the way the plate contacts the spring? Perhaps a piece of keystock tacked on both sides of the plate (4 pieces) to help the spring compress squarely...
My plate's 5/8" bore was work out to 0.72-ish, i am going to put a bushing in it tomorrow to get back to 5/8"...
(Message edited by stanner on February 13, 2006)
tbordeleau
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Terry:
A very plausable explanation. Makes me wonder what type of metal or what temper the trunnion bracket is. Hard to believe the spring caps can wear that steel that severely.
A very plausable explanation. Makes me wonder what type of metal or what temper the trunnion bracket is. Hard to believe the spring caps can wear that steel that severely.
tbordeleau
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Can anyone tell me what the overal length of the lift rod should be for a QA36A snowthrower on a wide-frame Cub?
I found out the hard way (before the big snowfall here Sat night) that the lift rod for a NF is too long, and also that the belt for a NF is too short.
I found out the hard way (before the big snowfall here Sat night) that the lift rod for a NF is too long, and also that the belt for a NF is too short.
Tom, same goes for "FUBB", <font size="-2">which BTW is also the title of a Wishbone Ash song, it's on their 1974 album "There's the Rub"</font>
stanner
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Tom..
I think the term has been around at least since WWII....
Ted
There appears to be regular steel in that area, as well as hardened. The soft pieces appear to be the replacable items, like linkage rods, and the plate itself. The harder ones include the trinion shaft, and the (for the lack of a better name) 'the return to neutral' plate...
I think the term has been around at least since WWII....
Ted
There appears to be regular steel in that area, as well as hardened. The soft pieces appear to be the replacable items, like linkage rods, and the plate itself. The harder ones include the trinion shaft, and the (for the lack of a better name) 'the return to neutral' plate...
Ted B.
So far I've found 4 lengths for lift rods and all factory rods. Go figure!
The best thing to do is to set youor front tires on a 2x4 with the thrower settin on the ground and the hydraulics all the way forward and measure from hole to hole, that way you have the RIGHT one for youor application.
On the thrower belt, I've found that 29 inchers pretty much will work on about all thrower/tractor combinations.
BUT, if your lookin for what IH said, go here http://cubfaq.com/questions.html and take a peek at all the useless information there to get all sorts of things sorted out.
So far I've found 4 lengths for lift rods and all factory rods. Go figure!
The best thing to do is to set youor front tires on a 2x4 with the thrower settin on the ground and the hydraulics all the way forward and measure from hole to hole, that way you have the RIGHT one for youor application.
On the thrower belt, I've found that 29 inchers pretty much will work on about all thrower/tractor combinations.
BUT, if your lookin for what IH said, go here http://cubfaq.com/questions.html and take a peek at all the useless information there to get all sorts of things sorted out.
tbordeleau
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- ted Bordeleau
Charlie: Thanks to the FAQ link. Is that link "linked" to this forum? It looks more "complete".
I just ordered a belt from one of the sponsors, he said the NF's used a smaller PTO pulley, so that would explain why my belt is short. I didn't try to wade thru the belt info in the FAQ.
Good idea for blocking the front wheels up, the reason I asked is that I sort of DID that, then cut the rod and lapped the (2) pieces together and vise-gripped them together, but my method only shortened it 2 1/2", while the vendor listed the NF and WF rods as being 4" different. I want to get all the lift I can.
Just as a reference, does anybody out there have a QAXXA series snowthrower mounted to a Quietline tractor? What's the overall length of the lift rod (easiest to measure)?
I just ordered a belt from one of the sponsors, he said the NF's used a smaller PTO pulley, so that would explain why my belt is short. I didn't try to wade thru the belt info in the FAQ.
Good idea for blocking the front wheels up, the reason I asked is that I sort of DID that, then cut the rod and lapped the (2) pieces together and vise-gripped them together, but my method only shortened it 2 1/2", while the vendor listed the NF and WF rods as being 4" different. I want to get all the lift I can.
Just as a reference, does anybody out there have a QAXXA series snowthrower mounted to a Quietline tractor? What's the overall length of the lift rod (easiest to measure)?
Ted B,
28 1/4" center to center.
Yea, I have a QA36A on a 1450.
28 1/4" center to center.
Yea, I have a QA36A on a 1450.
tbordeleau
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Thanks, Charlie.
I know mine won't ever throw snow as far as yours, I just need to get it out of the driveway!
Thanks!
I know mine won't ever throw snow as far as yours, I just need to get it out of the driveway!
Thanks!
Ted B,
That was a PERFECT snow, which doesn't happen very often, but when it does, it's a blast.
That was a PERFECT snow, which doesn't happen very often, but when it does, it's a blast.
Terry, Concerning the misalignment of the trunion and linkage, it doesn't take much to bend the trunion slightly to line things up more in the center. Also Mcmaster Carr have shims that you can take some of the slop out with. Add some under the c-clip.
(Message edited by jgeorg on February 13, 2006)
(Message edited by jgeorg on February 13, 2006)
Charlie,
Whats that white stuff coming out of your cub? It looks familiar.
On the trunion repair,
I figured it took 35 years to wear that bad. My fix should last a while. Even if it is a little misaligned. You could never get it perfect. No matter how hard you try.
Whats that white stuff coming out of your cub? It looks familiar.
On the trunion repair,
I figured it took 35 years to wear that bad. My fix should last a while. Even if it is a little misaligned. You could never get it perfect. No matter how hard you try.
Working on removeing the front pto from my 12hp in the 122.
I have gotten the set screws out, all six of them with the help of my blue tip wrench. Looking into the holes I can see the groove of the bearing so I know all the set screws are out.
I still cant get the pto off, it will not buge, the bearing is loose enough to allow the pto to tip sideways just a bit, more like a bad wabble.
How do I get this pto off with out ruining it or the motor.?????????
I need to get the pto off so I can elimanate it form the knocking I hear comming from the motor. There are no anti-rattle springs in the pto and it does move quite a bit when I turn it by hand.
