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Archive through April 08, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Ok, brains in gear again and no more clutch slip, or for Charlie the hydro fluid is topped off. Is there a down side to the driveshaft 'upgardes' that can be done to the cubs. I realize that it would help cut-down on role-pin shearing, but can it hurt the drivetrain? I have though about this many times and can't help but wonder. I'll gladly replace the pins so often if there is a downside to the upgrades.
 
Earl,
Hydros like shaft mods too.
Kraig will recognize this U joint.
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I'm glad that there is no real adverse affect to the mod. I see something new in the pic every time I look at it. I'll ask you tommorrow if I don't figure it out today Charlie. It is really making me think. Ohh! It's late, time for bed, will look at it some more tonight when I get up. Think spring weather for Sat!
 
Hour meters on the older IH and virtually every other brand of tractor was driven off some component that rotated when the engine ran, like timing gears, distributor, injection pump...I've even seen tach's driven off the back of generator's & alternators. And above or below the hour display there would be a note "Engine Hours at such&such RPM" On Farmall M's, 400's & 450's which full load RPM was 1450 rpm it would state 1450 rpm...I have a tach/hour meter from a 350 Farmall on My Super H so it reads 1750 rpm. Years ago I remember the big V-6 GMC semi-truck Dad was driving had an hour meter in the tach and it said "Operating hour = 100,000 crankshaft revolutions". Which was close for an engine that was govered to around 2600 rpm but normally ran at less speed....100K divided by 60 seconds is 1666-2/3 rev./minute.
So any engine that runs the tach with a cable similar to a speedometer cable will record operating hours in spite of engine speed....for instance if the rated speed is 2400 rpm and the engine runs @ 1200 rpm it will take two hours to record an hour of operation.
 
Charlie, you're gonna mess with a few minds with that one!
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Old Joe was one heck of an Engineer! I think he should have worked for <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>.
 
Speaking of drive shafts. I have recently fixed the kt17 in my 782. (I know the kt is a poorly designed engine, I have a Mag 18 waiting in the wings to be rebuilt) When I installed the kt, I noticed that the two flex coupling disks were getting stretched and distorted because it looks like the drive shaft is too short. On april 4, Rich Christensen posted a photo that showed 2 coupling disks put together, next to the hydro pump in order to make the drive shaft longer. Is this a good modification? Are there any problems with doing this? I do not think that I need a actuall u-joint, I am only cutting the lawn with the 782.
 
When I turn my 682 into a 782, I'm going to use a pump from an 1862, which has a splined input shaft. Then I can use the 1862 driveshaft with CV joints. It appears to be very strong and high-quality.
 
MATT - Those pesky green tractors have used splined input shafts on their Sundstrand hydro's for years...But they're engine crankshaft is not in line with their hydro's so the driveshafts only last a few years....and they cost over $100.
EARL - It's my understanding that after the driveshaft roll pins shear the next weakest link in a gear drive Cub Cadet is the top transission sliding shaft...the one the gears slide back & forth on to get the different speeds & reverse. At about the time it twists the bearing caps that hold the differential will crack/break.
CHARLIE - KRAIG - You wouldn't happen to have a spec. sheet on a 147 or 149, or 1450 CC like the one on the 100? I'm just wondering where & how much the torque peak of a K321 is/was. K241 was 16.2 Pound/feet @ 2200 rpm.
 
David E:

Uh....there is NOTHING wrong with the Kohler KT-17 Series II Motor. Yes, there were some issues with the KT-17 Series I if you were operating the tractor on inclined (ditch banks) planes. If they stayed flat, there weren't any worse than any other Kohler. I have a friend of mine that is running a 682 with the original Series I motor in. He would highly disagree with you.

According to the parts manual, the 782 had two Flex Coupler Disc's on each end of the drive shaft - for a total of four.

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This is my first post. Reworking a Cub Cadet 127. I need several different parts. Grill, posibly new hood and some other minor items. Having trouble finding some things at a reasonable price. Can anyone help here?
 
Mark, best thing to do is post an add in the classifieds.
 
Thank you for your help Roland. It is a series I kt that I put back into my 782. It had thrown a rod. It always seems like any 782 I look at with the original series I, has a rod put through the crankcase. I am not saying that Kohler makes a bad engine, or that I would use anything else. I just like the fact that the Mag has a full pressure lube system, oil filter, and no points.
 
David E: The basic diffference between the KT series II (which has a full pressure oil system like the Mags)and the Mag is the ignition systems. KT's have breaker ignition with points and the Mag's have electronic ignition.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Has anyone out there made a top bracket for a
narrow frame 3pt. I picked up a tiller for my
125 and need to set it up.
Well..... if the ground ever thaws out
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Thanks Kraig. I will certainly look into that. Have a few web sites to check. Also have to rebuild the PTO Clutch. Appears that this is going to be an expensive project to complete. Have the motor almost done now. Thanks again.
 
Hey Mark, the pto clutch is a snap.
Your local cub dealer should be able to get
you the rebuild kit for around thirty five bucks.
Includes friction disk,anti rattle springs, pressure plate and guage to set it up.
 

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