Archive through April 30, 2009

[cwillsey]

Hi Guys, I'm new to this forum and basically joined because I am having trouble with my 127 Hydrostatic and need some help. Please

I posted this last night in the "lawn" section and I was informed that that is not the right place so I'm reposting it here with a few additions.

I've been into IHs for quite a while and have several Scout 80s and 800s so a Cub Cadet seemed to make sense.

I bought the 127 about 10 years ago from a local dealer with the idea that it would be a good tractor to push and pull dead vehicles around with since it had the hydrostatic drive. At least that is what the guy said.

It's not perfect but it's pretty complete and clean. It's a nice little tractor. I did use it to cut some grass a few times but it has always been too temperamental to get started to make it very useful to actually get any real work done so I never made the push guard or even tried to pull a vehicle with it. It was always less work to get something else to do the job than try and start it.

I'm getting ready to move my shop AGAIN and will once again need something to push and pull non running vehicles inside a building for loading.

Before I bought something else I thought I would give the little guy one last try to see if it can be reliable enough to get more use out of than decoration.

When we were dealing with the tractor right after I bought it, it seems we replaces a bunch of stuff to try and get it to run and the guy at the dealer said it always worked for him but it almost never worked for me. I went through several batteries over time until I just gave up and parked it. I am used to getting hard to start older vehicles started but I either lack the gene for CubCadets or there is still something amiss.

I am also toying with the idea of making it a "race tractor" but I'm not sure if this is a good platform for that kind of project. Maybe pulling tractor would be more appropriate as someone pointed out but tooling around the neighborhood at high speeds sounds more appealing. Opinions?

Since it has been a while since we did the work I can't remember all that was done. Seems like all new ignition parts and perhaps a new carburetor and maybe a new head gasket if not a head. I thought we covered all bases but it has just never started right. Are they all this difficult? Any ideas off the cuff with so little to go on?

> Some suggestions that were provided in the lawn section were to make sure the battery and the gas is good and that it is getting fuel. I did all that of course as well as check the spark. I haven't tried to start it this time around and it has been sitting for 8 years so I'm sure it will need another battery and before I spent any money on it I wanted some advice. Like I said, I have a lot of experience with working on older vehicles and I have never run into anything that I couldn't make run well and can usually start thing that most others can't. Except this

When I first bought the tractor I had trouble from day one and took it back to the dealer 3 times. Each time he would replace some more stuff and say it started perfectly for him. I'd take it home and start if a couple of times without too much difficultly and then it would become temperamental again so I would take it back. He would replace something else we hadn't addressed yet and say the same thing that for him it started perfectly. Eventually I gave up. I thought it might have something to do with the fact that a belt has to turn over the engine to start but the belt is tight and doesn't seem to slip. It might help if it turned over faster but unless I changed out the pulleys I don't know how to make that happen. Plus then it might not have the torque to turn over. ?? <

Thanks, Chris

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chris, welcome! I saw your other post and the first responses, then figured I'd wait until you posted here. The hard to start condition with a slow turning S/G, sounds like marginal ground connections, or the S/G is worn out. The ground connections are an easy fix to try first. Make sure the battery ground cable is in good condition and is connected to a good solid connection on the frame, not just sheet metal. make sure the connections are good with no rust. Here's a wiring diagram to get you started. (no pun intended...) A shaft drive Cub Cadet wouldn't be the best choice for a racing Cub Cadet, to hard to alter the speed. You're best bet would be to find a belt drive lawn tractor, then change out the pulleys and belt so that you speed up the drive. Perhaps a Cadet 76 model.

 

[jpatchett]

Chris,

If the tractor has been sitting for 8 years and has not been started, the carb will need cleaning. The gas in it has gone bad and gummed up the carb. The starter/generator (SG) cubs do turn over slower than ones with direct drive starters. I have found that only a few slow turns are enough to get one stated, IF the carb is clean, adjusted properly and there is good spark. I personally would remove the carb and rebuild it, thus eliminating any doubts about air/fuel mixture problems. You can try spraying it inside and out with a carb cleaner, but this is very limited in improving a dirty carbs performance. Short of rebuilding the carb, remove it and soak it in a gallon can of carb/parts cleaner. Rinse it well with denatured alcohol, dry and remount (you may need to buy or make a gasket).

There could be several other problems, but this is where I would start.

Jim

 

[stanner]

Chris,
Go to the FAQ, and find the link for a Kohler manual for the engine. I would have to guess that the ACR is not functioning correctly (Automatic Compression Release), causing the engine to turn over slow. The engine could be trying to turn the hydro over also against the starter. Look in the FAQ's for the hydro linkage adjustment, or jack up the rear tires and see if that helps. If you jump the tractor from a car, and it fires right up, then I would look for bad cables and cable connections, namely the grouning from the battery to the frame.... HTH

 

[mmorrison]

All this tock about s/g's I am going to pick mine up after lunch. 260.00$ later it should be like new I hope.

All so Chris I had a hard time with the condenser giving my an interment problem.

 

[rbro]

hello im new to this site and looking for the serial number on my 196? cub cadet ih 70. if someone could please help me that would be great thank you

 

[rbro]

srry didnt upload first time this is the tractor i need alittle help with thank you

 

[jbliler]

Hey Charlie, Could you get ahold of me? 417-818-9049 Thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rick, welcome! Here's a LINK to the FAQ where we have info on where to find the S/N on the various model <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadets and once you find your S/N click HERE to find out what month and year it was built.

 

[tteague]

417? thats in good ole southern missoura, I think!

Chris, I think kraig is right. These lil cubs are bad A$&. They can be tempermental but also very reliable. You will not find a better little tractor. Pulling shtuff around is actually what they do best! your problem has to be something as simple as a routine clean on the carb. Charlie has the rebuild kit for them at a fair price(cc specialties at top of this page) also get a head gasket for it. Pull the head and clean out the gunk in the combustion chamber. You also might want to get some NEW points for it. Make sure you get a New points push rod too. check all the electrical connections. If that doesnt work then Ill be glad to come and get it for free juzz to git it off your hands!! LOL

 

[rbro]

thank you Kraig but i cant find it there. their is a small block raised from the drive tran but no numbers on it. also did my picture come up i cant veiw it on the forum.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rick, no photo showed up in your post. Feel free to email your photo to me, I'll post it for you. My email address is in my profile. Did you check the rear of the transmission, as for a 71 through 1x6/7 series Cub Cadet, to see if the S/N was there?

 

[rbro]

i sent you some pics let me know you got them .looking foward to finding out as much as i can and getting some parts ive seen. thank you

 

[agitch]

Chris you may have to be patient when cleaning your carb and do a thorough job. A co-worker had one sitting for only two years and he had to take it apart and clean it three times before he could get it to run right.

 

[fsnerd]

just wanted to thank you guys for all your help.

it started with 128 i just bought and was stalling under a load, which turned into removing the engine and a valve job. and removing a mouse nest.

while the engine is out, i checked the clutch. everything, i mean everything , roll pins, shaft, springs, is shot. only brackets can be saved.

now, i have to take the mower apart and see why one blade is not attached. hoping i get lucky there. no major parts need to be replaced.

thanks to you guys, and this site, i got all the info and parts i needed.

might not have it back together for the lawn, but at least it should be in time for the snow.

im starting to think i should just restore it while i am at it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rick's Cub photos.

Interesting drawbar.

 

[rbro]

Awsome thanks Kraig now any more tips on the serail number

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rick, I sent back one of your photos (posted here) in an email with the area to check for the S/N circled in red. The S/N is not on the raised block, it should be forward of that.

 

[rbro]

OK i think i found it 70357 so i think it is a late make of 64 i think

 

[sstanton]

Hi guys, got some more work done on the 104 on Monday. The paint was drying nicely in the 90 degree weather we had in WNY! Got a bunch of small parts painted and put some more stuff on it. I painted the foot rests flat black and I hope that was right. I'm sure you would all let me know if it wasnt! lol Here are some new pics of progress so far.

I was also wondering where to find those screws that holt the fender to the footboard as well? Can I find them anywhere?