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Archive through September 01, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Donald Tanner
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"

Wow that looks like a slick set up. I would love to have my smoker there to plow and watch that in action.You must be using a Diesel ? to pull that . Dang I wish I could weld worth a darn.
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If I welded that plow it be in two or more pieces after the first 5'. 8-( Don't work bubba too hard!
 
"Mr. Plow" - since I left the mid-west a few decades ago and became a coastal guy I never get to any of the plow days. I gotta say that plow is impressive. I assume it has a basis to an association with your name. I can't wait to see some pics of it in action.

Brian W - thanks for the compliments. I don't know why the yellow paint looks so yellowie in the pics. I guarantee you it is the original correct CC yellow. The pics are from a few years back and it seems "digital yellow" must fade some over time. Keep up that work on your 1250. They are great units. The very first CC I had was a 1450 and I loved that unit. Never thought I'd sell it but when I had to make the move from the right to left coast it had to go. The only thing I kept was the 169 cause there just ain't many of them.

Bill J - the 169 is "slightly" more powerful than a 1650
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It doesn't have the additional weight of the ISO-bar mountings and double rag joint to hold it back like the 1650 does. But don't tell anyone I said this. In fact, if Kraig - Oh Great One - Keeper of the Photos - reads this, he may even post a pic of the early IHCC brochure where they advertise the 1650 as the most powerful garden tractor ever built by IHCC. I just couldn't believe it when I saw that. I tried to contact them but to no avail. I was going to DEMAND they add an asterick. They had to have forgotten about the 169. Best I could figure is the 169 was such a short production run (a few months) that they had already been working on the literature for the Quiet Line series and just missed out on the 169.
Overall, all I can say is the engine in both is a K341 but I'll take my 169 any day in a tug-o-war with a 1650.
(under edit - many of the 13 fin K341's have been lost to the puller guys since they can bore them out to 4". I think that's also why you can't hardly find them).
 
Harry I am with you on the 169 over a 1650, and if the front hydraulics would had been available with the 169 that would be a KO punch for the 1650 and all other IH cubs....imho
 
Jeff B - I might have heard the front hydraulics were a "post production" option for the 169. I believe you can drill the 2 holes in the front of the frame, add a dual spooler valve and control handle, custom fit the linkage and fluid lines, and there ya go!!! As it is, since my 169 is really a show unit I like running it around wagging my rear lift tail up and down, I just need an IH flag to put in the pin hole.
 
I know I havent posted on here alot, but wanted to thank everyone for your support and business over the years. I have been busy working on some new stuff and thought I would share the newest most exciting piece so far.

Cut Cadet Original Hoods.....
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They have all the3 same hemmed lips, and fit like a glove. The origianl ones were made out of .036" steel and these are made out of .048" steel.

Hope everyone is having a great labor day weekend!
Aaron Schmidt - Xtreme Motorworks
 
Harry,

No, actually, THANK YOU for all the support you have given me in refurbishment of my 1250 nightmare. You kept me working on it when I wanted to give up on it, and ask myself: "What have I done?" Your support, along with the tips from you and many others here made it possible. I got it to my goal for the year: to get the machine in good enough condition to display it at the IH expo at the Western Minnesota Steam Thrasher's Reunion. This is the largest steam thrashing show in the country. I was proud to run it in the parade this afternoon. It wouldn't have happened without your support. Thank You, Thank You.
 
Aaron Schmidt - Xtreme Motorworks

I did buy from you and would again, Your Tractor Hitches are first rate. Thanks
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So since I first got my QL, I have wanted to do this. So I ordered up some stainless steel off of ebay and fabbed up my own grills. The bolts that hold the lower grill in place are stainless carriage bolts that I threw on the lathe to smooth the heads off. What do you think?

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Chris E. drove down for the day and we spent some quality fabrication time.....

some on his lawn arerator....

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and the rest on the plow....

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....Just needs some hyd. parts, the gauge wheel, and rolling cutters!!!!!
 
Chuck F. ~

That Quietline grill looks very nice! I really like it. Would you mind if I stole that idea at a later date? I have a lot of other work to do in the nightmare before I would do something like that, but it does add quite a bit. Nice job!
 
Brian, go for it. At one point I was going to keep the stock muffler, but I opted for a stack, which made it a lot easier to make the lower grill. Drilling holes in that stuff is tough! I want to add headlights to the upper grill, but I have no idea how to cut the holes.
 
Chuck F - hey I like the nice clean look of your new grills but I have some concerns. The original pattern of the upper is different from the lower. I think your new screens are a pretty close pattern to the original upper but with more steel, less open hole area. The original lower is more of an open screen, and both upper and lower are painted black. I wondered since you used stainless if you intended to paint them? Also, I don't exactly recall how the air flows around the engine and across the muffler box so I wondered how the air flows thru your new lower screen, and if you might develop a sort of whistle/noise when the engine is running and the side panels are installed. You must have the muffler with the short outlet pipe (approx 1 inch) since it doesn't go thru the grill screen, and as such the exhaust will certainly blacken your stainless, so I would guess these would have to be painted black or the exhaust will soon darken them. The blackening is why IH changed the muffler to have an outlet pipe that went thru the screen and stuck out just past the front of the tractor about 1-2 inches. For you to avoid the blackening you could put a hole in your screen for the muffler pipe and add an extension pipe extending thru the screen and ending just short or even with the front of the tractor. This would be similar to the final version muffler that IH used. This style still allows the exhaust to blacken the grill and right side of the grill housing, but they did this to avoid issues with the exhaust heating the snow thrower chute. I still like the nice clean look you have, I just wonder if there will be issues. Let us know what you intend to do.

Under Edit - Oops, I didn't see your stack muffler (the eagle eyes are getting old). Do you still use side panels with the stack? My other questions/concerns still apply tho if others are considering your conversions.
 
Harry - that is a mighty fine looking 169. I don't know if you use the tractor as a working machine, but if you do or don't, I can see either side of it.

My F.I.L. gave me another color tractor right before he died. I was mowing his old camp and know he had this tractor locked-up in a shed. I like to use my stuff, even if I'm working on other folks property and that way if something breaks, there ain't no "who struck John".

One day I was mowing and my FIL came by and opened the shed. The other color tractor was in there and hadn't been run for probably 15 years at that point in time. Turns out it the tractor was a 1988ish Wheelhorse hydro with 20hp Onan and 50 hours. I took it home and left my equipment in it's place. The problem was badly varnished/sticky old gas everywhere and a brake fix and the tractor runs.

I say all this with respect to your 169 and working it or not! I think I've got 60 hrs on the other color tractor and am debating if I should keep it in "new" condition, but I waffle on it. I like the idea of working the tractor - as it is basically a new machine, but also see some value in making it a show piece.

Very nice 169 you got. It's interesting to see how some folks on this forum restore their tractors to showroom condition and others restore their tractors such that they are a great working tractor and some are both! I lean more to making my fleet of machines working machines, but maybe when I retire (and hopefully have more time on my hands) I'll do some ground-up restorations.

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Harry you raise some really good points, and to be honest I don't know. I don't have the muffler box installed yet, I had to make some modifications to it to allow for the stack to stick out the side, and the box I started with was a little beat up so it's at Mike's getting some cracks welded up. I do plan to use the side panels, I need to cut a hole to compensate for the stack. I will let you know if it whistles when I get that all setup. The hole pattern is actually almost exactly the same as stock. And no, I don't plan to paint the grills.
 
Bill J.
In my opinion, an "original condition" 24 year old tractor is worth much more than a restored/refurbished 24 year old tractor, regardless of what color they are. After all, they are only "original" once.

Every one has their own idea what "restored" is or means, and most people refurbish to their own likeing or taste. Some are, IMO "over done", some could use some more work, but most are done to suit the owner. I don't to use the word restored, I used the word refurbished when I talk about one I have done. When someone tells me they restored a Cub Cadet to showroom condition, the first thing I ask is how many paint runs does it have and where are they, because a Cub Cadet sure had them when it was in factory fresh showroom condition. I get some strange looks and expressions when they tell me, "none, it's restored".

My vote, if you are asking what to do with it, is to leave it original.
 
IMO, to truly restore a tractor it needs all new bushings and bearings and seals on the whole tractor, completely rebuilt motor, new tires, and new paint and preferably every nut and bolt retapped because a "new" tractor doesn't have rusted threads that take 20 mins to get out one wrench turn at a time. Paul actually somewhat "broke" me from using the term restored after hearing his explanation a few times on forums in the past (thanks Paul
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My "restorations" with exception of a 102 my grandparents bought new and my 3-digit Original aren't full out restorations. I do a frame off repaint every time because I hate grease, rust, and half-hearted paint jobs. Just a personal OCD thing I have. I replace all leaking seals and worn parts that will break anytime in the next 5 years but not every seal or part with some wear. Also, the motor gets a good freshening while apart unless it runs well already. I also rarely replace tires unless they have deep cracks or look bad. WHY? If you do one full out like described in my first paragraph you'll have over $2000 in the restoration alone. Motor and tires alone can easily add 700-800 dollars and I have 8 "restored" cubs. I also know that mine will again get dirty and used hard sometimes after redone but personally just hate the look of non-repainted tractors so all of my tractors and attachments are redone. I even wash and wax them sometimes but take them back out and use them like they were built to be used again. Like everyone says... it's all in personal preference.
 
Aaron S. Absolutely FANTASTIC!!! My Original will be ordering one of those from you when I get my medical bills caught up. Your workmanship is the best!!!
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Chuck F. Really cool looking custom pieces. I like them.

Brian W. Glad to hear that Harry was able to help you.

Steve B. Will your plow be red and white or yellow and white? That thing looks sharp. You may have started a new business.

On another note. Got the bifocals yesterday. Oh man... I didn't know that I was that bad seeing things. Getting used to them on the computer is something else though. (Remember that old Johnny Nash song... I Can See Clearly Now.

Got to mow some lawn today to even out the brown spots. Everyone have a wonderful day.
 

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