Archive through September 18, 2012

[wcompton]

High hydro temps-
Yes, my hydro runs pretty hot due to either worn pistons or blocks (or both). I installed a S-W trans temp gauge and just mowing I can get the hydro up to 200°+. Once the fluid gets so hot, the engine must be at part-throttle to just lift. I'm assuming that the pistons have so much play that the charge pump doesn't reach full pressure simply because it's trying to keep the hydro filled. It's simply worn out, my 169 is on at least it's third owner, and as far as I can tell it's on its third engine (has replacement engine that has a .010 over piston, so I'm assuming it went through it's first engine, second engine, and the second engine has been rebuilt). Being driven off of one of those torquey shaking bugger K341's can't be an easy life, it's a testament to durability that it's worked this long.

Like Charlie eluded to; after a round or two of plowing I have to come to a complete stop just to lift the plow, plowing I've seen the temp gauge get up into the 215°-220° range.

Good news is that I found a low-hour 1250 that has a hydro in excellent condition, I'll be swapping the front casting to keep my hydraulic lift... fingers crossed, I'll have a "normally operating" hydro once again.

 

[kshultz]

Charlie,
There's another "rare" knife for you on ePay.

 

[kshultz]

Ooops! Did I break it?
Huh.....guess not.

 

[digger]

Well enough is enough.
I'd like to see anyone that's on greedbay to report this scumbag.
It's easy to do, just go to item # 110953214204
Hit the REPORT button and go with this format.

Maybe we can shut'um done, so that don't screw anyone else.

 

[jbaker]

I tried but it says listing removed...

 

[rmcshane]

I just found it Jeff. Just copy and paste the item number in the search box.

 

[mfrade]

filed a report! Let's see what happens next.

 

[jbaker]

got it this time...mission accomplished

 

[dtanner]

Wow , sold for $31.00 . I got to dig up some old stuff and start selling lol.

 

[nbartee]

Dennis - I didn't know what it was. Kinda funky! Owner wants $1995 for it.

 

[wheinsohn]

Wyatt, when I bought my 1650, it had over a 1/4" of crud on the bottom of the rearend case and a line on the side where it had crud hanging at the fluid level. I cleaned it out the best I could, put in new fluid and replaced the IH filter that was on it. It seemed OK for a couple years but I felt it was not as strong as it should be. Then I took it to one of Steve's plow days where it was very wet ground. I could push the hydro lever all the way forward and never run out of power, nor would it spin out. My brother always had to slow down with my 149 following me. I changed the fluid and filter the next spring and went to another plow day with about the same problem. So I bought a used hydro off a 149 and put it on. It is like night and day. No way can I get close to wide open hydro now and it flies, both plowing and running around the yard empty. I think those K341's really put a strain on those hydro units.

 

[thoffman]

My Super Super knife sold for $10.50! But since I'm a nice guy I refunded his money.

 

[jknight]

Just went to epay and tried to file a report on the item.
Here is the answer
This listing (110953214204jsessionid=29BAA119A89450A7278746C469D51F6A) has been removed, or this item is not available.
Joe

 

[dschwandt]

Tom, I think I would have kept the $ and just made sure he rec'd his moneys worth of knives, forks, spoons, paper plates etc!!

Dave S.

 

[dfrisk]

NORM - Other than the funky paint color that tractor looks to be in decent shape, and nice details in the build. I'd be curious to see how the bed hoist works. The big new Articulated dump trucks built in Davenport Ia use a pair of hyd cylinders about 8-9 feet long and about 3-4 inch bore. But then their bed is about 25 ft long. The old model ADT used a V8 Mercedes-Benz diesel. Evidently they didn't build a big enough engine in Waterloo.

For somebody to shell out $1995 for the thing, somebody would have to have a really BIG dirt moving project in some tight spaces, like back-filling a retaining wall.

 

[rdehli]

Got a question , I know that I'm on thin ice but does anybody use or recomend an oil treatment for the kohler kt series to make them run cooler , kind of like a friction fighter. similiar to a motorkote... or a duralube lucas oil treatment type additive...
right now I only use #30 wt low ash from Case IH

 

[hydroharry]

Rob D - "on thin ice", geez. I wouldn't use #30 wt in the late fall, winter or early spring, when you might have any ice around. I don't know what Kohler recommended for below 30degree temps for the KT but I believe it was 5W20 for the single cylinder K-series. As for snake oil additivies, MMO it probably the only thing I'd consider based on recommendations of others on here. (You might be starting something again).

 

[dgallagher]

I have a walbro carb on my 129. I know the rep, but it has be doing fine until recently when it got gummed up (ethanol) and I cleaned it out. I put it back, set the adjustments, and it runs fine, except it burns twice the gas it once did.Any ideas?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rob, send Charlie an email, he may have some recommendations on oil additives.

From the Kohler K series Owners Manual:

 

[nbextermueller]

Rob D.

You already mentioned the brand I recommend. Try Lucas Oil upper cylinder lubricant. It goes in the gas. I have noticeable drop of about 20-30 degrees on the head if I run it consistently in 93 octane gas. When I forget it goes right back up. (verified with my IR thermometer) it lubricates all the places gas goes and oil doesn't like the upper valve guides and upper ringlands, keeping temps down. It's also a cleaner, keeping the carb, ports, valves, and head literally sparkling clean. I know MMO is the king on this site, but Lucas works. There is a reason Lucas can sponsor every thing, every one uses it in real racing conditions. I won't put anything "mystery" in my engines. I also use Lucas 30 Plus oil. Specifically designed for 30wt flat tappet engines with all the proper ZDDP levels to keep friction down. All that combined helps tremendously.

David G.

It's likely it way to rich now. Even though you put it back where it was, it's all brand new now. It needs to be leaned out probably 3/4 to a full turn. But since you mentioned it's a walbro, maybe you only have 1adjustment screw? If so, that's the idle circuit. And only changes the a/f ratio at idle. The other screw is off idle. That's the one you'd play with if you had it. If you don't have the second screw, we'll your screwed (pun intended...)