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Archive through September 01, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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PAUL - I remember having the exact same discssion about paint runs on IH CCs with Dan H at his shop years ago. His '61-'63 Cub Cadets were "Restorations", by your definition, including a paint run or two! ;-).

My spin on things is I think it's silly to have anything taking up space, deteriorating due to non-use. My old CC's & FARMALL's all get used for things I find an excuse for them to do. My 31 yr old rattle-can paint job on the 72 and the 43 yr old rattle-can paint job on the Super H are starting to show their age. But NONE of my tractors spend a night outside, and the only time they get rained or snowed on is when I'm running them and get caught in a shower or snow storm. Neither tractor is a faded rust bucket, and someday they'll get fresh paint & decals so they look like new.
 
Steve B we can't wait for a few action shots of the plow working. IH white with cub yellow trim would look good..
 
Steve-
Nice work on the semi-mounted. It's the toughest design to undertake and you worked it well!
 
Does anyone know if a 26\10.50-23 turf tire is made?? Any sources from you guys/gals? Looking to beef up a wideframe with some taller meats.
 
Tom H
Do you mean 26-10.5 x 12? Don't think so, but Carlisle still makes a 26-12 x 12 turf.
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Bill, Paul and Kevin - unfortunately I could never really bring myself to using one of my "restored" tractors. They were like a piece of art. If I damaged, dinged, scratch, got it dirty, I had to fix whatever it was. It would usually take me about 6 months to go thru the tractor completely, so I could usually get it to one show before I sold it, and then got started on another. My take on "restored" is that it means something different to everyone. If someone says something is restored, then to me the next natural questions are, ok what did you do to it, is it more than just painting, what'd ya do to the engine, tranny, mechanics, wiring, clutch (PTO and drive), on and on and on, so you could really find out what was done. You could never really tell what may have been done or not done to an engine, and most of the units don't have hour meters so it was always a trust thing. Of course if the unit has a black engine (before the Quiet Line era) with a decal/sticker on the flywheel housing you knew it was at least a replacement. To me restoring generally means repairing what ever needs repairing, changing the usual items that fail (like the hydro pump cork gasket), renewing the PTO and drive clutches with new bearings, the usual new points plug, condensor, carb kit, throttle shaft if needed, decarboning the head/piston and get a look at the cylinder, and doing what's necessary. Back when I was restoring these units I usually always had a unit around to test use besides my main 1450. I had 2 acres to mow, one of which was a wetlands area that only dried up in the middle of the summer. The 1450 with a 50inch deck was the only unit that would handle it well (never had a 1650 to try). The other units I had always were a comparison to my 1450 which made it tough. I never had a 7hp unit but a couple 86's. I felt like they were fine for grass with a 36" deck. Never tried one in snow but felt like they could work ok but not well if it was a foot or so. Didn't feel like they could handle a thrower really great. Just seemed like the engine didn't have enough torque. Used several different 10hp units and could tell the difference. Felt like they were marginally enough. All the 12hp units were good all around tractors. Didn't care much for 122's with the gear drive and no quick attach latching, but like the way the 12hp runs. Had a 1200 that scared me when I ran it around without a mowing deck. It was a later production with the lower aluminum grill housing instead of the early cast iron, and with that weight difference to was just to easy to pop wheelies. Of all the gear drives I liked the 128 the best, just seemed like a nice fit for all around use. Had a fair number of the hydro units narrow and wide frames. Felt like the wide frame was just a little more tractor even tho they were basically the same as the narrow frame units. None of these worked very well in my wetlands area, not that the 1450 was great unless it was dried out. We're talking bog grass sometimes a foot tall, and unless I had enough speed even the mowing deck on the 1450 would get hung up between 2 bogs. I had to stop and either chop out the bog with a pick ax, or sometimes I'd put the tractor in a slow forward speed (tires would be spinning slowly in the muddy soil) and I'd lift and push and tug to get the deck past the bog. Dang that was tough stuff. Also, switching seasons, the 1450 really handled the QA42A snow thrower the best. 12hp hydro was ok but I just felt like I needed the extra hp in the 14. I never could find a decent 1650 to pick up that wasn't abused and to far gone for me to want to restore, and never had an '82 series either. Ooh, and I had a few 147's with electric lifts which I never cared for. I always found myself looking down to see what I was doing to the deck when I moved it up/down. I guess I never really trusted the electrics. And there was something about mixing electricity with snow/rain/slush that I never liked for using them in the winter. The 14hp was nice but the electric lift just didn't compare to the hydro lift on the 1450. Now, all this said here's a pic of my favorite IH CC advert.
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Harry,
Thanks for the few tips on the 100 backfiring. Will certainly need to do a carb job this fall I'd say. Just to be sure things are the way they should be.

Now my only problem now - WHY did I fry my coil yesterday? I just replaced it about a month ago with a new one I bought at NAPA. Yesterday when using the blade to move gravel for the walk way, it was chuging a bit and didn't want to idle up at all. Well, I continued to use it slowly, not taking too much gravel at a time. When backing up, looking behind me, heard a loud pop. When I turned around, I couldn't see the end of the hood for white smoke.
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The entire top of the could had blown off the body and was spurting oil all over the engine block.
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Why does this always happen to me when I am trying to get work done around the house!!!
I will have to take a picture of it so you can see, but it is DONE! So needless to say, I spent the rest of yesterday and today using the trusty old SHOVEL!
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So with the tractor not wanting to speed up from idle, was that caused by an electrical issue? I figured I had dirt in the gas. So I had previously taken the fuel bowl off and cleaned it out in hopes it might help?

What the heck is causing the coils to crap out? I know the last one was because it looked like it was original. The top had dried out and cracked, allowing the oil to spurt out as well.

I am confused!
 
Mike, the only quick thought I have is...was that an official coil made for a cub ?? I think cub coils have an internal resistor to lower the current draw which could cause the coil to overheat. You referred to a 100 tractor, is that what blew the coil?? If yes, above still applies. If a newer tractor with an alternator, maybe the regulator went bad and put out a higher voltage than wanted and cooked the coil. <font size="-2">probabily didnt do the points any good or the battery.</font>
After rereading ur message again...does anybody remember where the coil interchange chart is. Think there was a specific coil that worked on a Cub from NAPA.
 
By scott croonquist (Scroonquist) on Saturday, October 25, 2003 - 06:51 pm:

Al,
Napa #7-01643 coil
Have one in my 100 for 5 years now and works great. $24.40 in aug of 1998
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Aaron S, I wish you had been making them when I restored my original. Would have saved a lot of tig welding and body work. They look real good. Nick
 
Nick,, that is one nice looking 149 in your profile
 
Thanks Jeff. It was running when I got it about 5 years ago or so but needed alot of work to get it to look like that in that pic. That thing is an absolute workhorse. Had a 147 growing up but like this one alot better. Sad thing is, it isn't so shiny anymore. Alot of snow throwing and garden plowing and tilling since the pic was taken. My boy and I were just talking the other day about restoring it again. Thanks, Nick
 
Thanks for all of the comments guys...it has been fun to build so far!!!

Specs:

Bottoms are off a 10" Sears Cat "Sub Zero" 3 pt. plow.

Frame is designed to copy an early 510 or 700 plow, with a few features of the later 710,720, and 735 plows thrown in for good measure and to keep the "IH Look" in a scaled down form. Everything except the bottoms and uprights is fabricated. (I was going to add fake Automatic Reset spring covers for that distinctive IH plow look, but they didn't fit well with the tail wheel assembly and the mock-ups looked too "fake" for my tastes.

Tires are 4" x 8" wheel barrow tires/rims with modified offsets.

Set-up:

It is laid out so that the 10" bottoms take 8" cuts, for a total of 16" of cut. Design depth is 5-6". Line of draft should be pulling right through the king pin pivot (within an inch).

Prime-mover:

2072 (20hp Mag) with dual hyd. (front and rear - Pioneer style couplings). It pulls a 12" Brinly +8" deep at a good clip, so it should be able to hack 16", 5-6" deep.

Colors:

Plan is to style it after the late model IH plows with black tail wheel assembly, steering arm, bottoms, and hitch bar......yellow frame and hyd. cylinder......and white wheels. It will look exactly like the Hungarian state farm tractors.

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or like this 735 Vari-Width with all of the red changed to yellow.

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Again, thanks for the comments and I'll post more pics when I test it (soon)......
 
Allen,
Yes, this is on a 100 that I bought last fall. No, it wasn't a specific one for Cub that I bought from NAPA. THAT is likely one of the problems. I guess going the CHEAP way isn't always the correct way!
So you think the points and the condensor should be changed too? I did notice that I have had to boost the tractor the last two times I have used it. That mean I could be screwing up my battery or is it just MY LUCK that its getting old at the same time as this issue and needs to be replaced?

Steve,
Great job on the plow so far! I like your design and your possible choice in colour. I bet you will have a blast plowing with that one. Definately need a thread on your assebly of it, good reading I think. You certainly will be one of the very few people out there with one. Can't wait to see what its like painted up and behind the Cub rolling down a bean feild! Can you say PICTURES!
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Aaron,
Great job on the new hoods for the Originals! Like most other things I have seen come out of your shop, top notch!
 
Paul,
Thanks but I'm looking for something narrower. I'm pretty sure I can get tht size in a ATV tire but not sure that's what I want.
 
Here is a pic of our 'new to us' 782!
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Looks to be built in June of 1980 if I read the chart right. Very solid looking over all, just need to do the lift mod on it for the mower deck. It starts well and has no smoke what so ever from it's series 2 motor just needs a new muffler, the end is coming loose. Deck needs a little attention like gauge wheels and a hole patched where the belt had been rubbing on it but other than that in good shape. The best part is that it came with a rear lift, plow and a double gang disk set. I think I'm more excited to see my wife and daughters use it than myself. What do you think?

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Brian::: nice find how about some implement pics


Steve;; I like the red paint scheme but I guess the yellow would match the cub
 
Well Isaac was good to us, 4.3" of rain and more forecast for tomorrow. Soon will be getting some seat time! Hydro the red button in the PTO handle is for you!

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