• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through October 21, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dtanner

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
6,539
displayname
Donald Tanner
Richard P

I checked and a head gasket is the same for a O,70,71,72,73,86,and a 100 and the Carburetor repair kits is KH -25-757-01 and that same kit fits all up to and includes a 149 . So if that gasket that is behind a breather is in the kits that I listed .
clappy.gif
It will fit . There i`am dune for today. later Don T
 
Kendell-

Farm & Fleet still exists.

Don T./Richard P.-

Read Paul Bell's post. The carb inlet diameter is larger on the K241-K341 carbs than on the K161/181 carbs, so the 7 hp oil bath air filter will NOT fit. The head gasket on a 100 is NOT the same as a 7/8 hp head gasket, and the breather gasket isn't in the carb kit. I'm not sure where you're going with that. The bowl is the same size on K161-K341 engines.
 
i do move it as far back as possible i even remove the grill screen. but seeing that the 100 and 70 use the same frame there is considerably less room on the 100 so i have push and pull on my belt to get it out which is how i keep braking the wear buttons. on my brother 70 i can get belts on and off without a problem without touching anything else
 
Bjohnson - I went through that same scinario recently. I finally grabbed another coil wire from another cub and found that to be the problem. I wasted about two hours chasing that problem too. I've learned not to overlook the obvious and don't underestimate the small stuff (like the coil wire). The chances are it's something simple and it sounds like you're doing all the right things.
Good luck, Wayne
 
Paul,
Does it look like the one on the Original? If so, please point me in it's direction. I think I'd like to try one on my 100.
 
Richard-
The oil-bath air cleaner used on the 10hp Kohler is the same assembly as the 7hp version, but with a different (aluminum) elbow.

Here is a comparison of the smaller 7hp elbow next to a 10hp version.
179907.jpg


179908.jpg


I managed to happen upon one of these 10hp oilbath elbows when I was putting together my Original with the 10hp engine, so I thought it was perfect compliment for the project. It came with the the aircleaner assembly and that's when I noticed that the aircleaner itself was the same as the 7hp version, but the elbow was different.

Here is the aircleaner on the tractor when it was done..
179909.jpg
 
Richard P
I think Art answered your questions, and I can not point you to a a 10 hp oil bath air cleaner, or the elbow for one (elbow P/N was originally 235553), because I don't know what the engines that had them were used on. I saw a NOS one at a swap meet a few years ago and IIRC the guy said it was for an engine (Kohler) used on a hay baler or some other piece of farm equipment.
 
Matt:
Quality Farm & Fleet went Chapter 11 in January of '02, closed most stores, sold a few to TSC (one in our area). But AFAIK, the company was belly up...
There may be local stores that survived and kept the name but ?????


And on oil bath air cleaners - if you're restoring them, cool, but I would never replace a good pleated paper style (with foam pre-filter, of course) with a horse hair / oil bath filter.. They are not as efficient at removing fine particles from the intake air....
 
Re: Quality Farm And Fleet - Found this on "Greenspun.Com" from 2003
"Just for the record...CT Farm & Country (Central Tractor) was a company headquartered in Iowa serving, pricipally, the upper Midwest. CT bought ConAgra's retail business called Country General. A short time after that, Quality Farm & Fleet stores, headquartered in Michigan, merged with Central Tractor. And Quality stores was the surviving entity...however, it did not survive. It wasn't long after that merger that the whole company went under. Several of their locations were sold off to TSC, other were sold off to regional farm store players such as Running's Supply. Mill's Fleet Farm (headquartered in Appleton, WI) operates about 30 stores in the Dakota's, Minnesota, Iowa and Wisconsin. Blain's Farm & Fleet (headquartered in Janesville, WI) operates approximately a similar number in Wisconsin, Iowa, and Illinois. Mill's stores are typically larger and often include building materials as part of their offering in the market. Blain's stores, while typically, a little smaller, still run in the 60,000 to 100,000+ sq. ft. range and have a pretty broad "general store" offering including, of course, very heavily in the farm and rural products."

We had QF&F here in Michigan, you've got Mill's and Blaine's a little further west.
 
Kendell, around here (Wisconsin/Minnesota) we have Mills Fleet Farm stores. The most recent add lists 18 stores in WI, 11 in MN, 1 in IA and 1 in ND. We also have some Blain's Farm & Fleet stores but none close enough to visit very often.
 
Blain's Farm & Fleet based in Janesville,WI has 14 stores in WI,with one brand new in Verona,WI , 16 stores in IL, & 4 in Iowa.That info based on a mail flier I received today. Madison,WI had a TSC store, but it closed in early 1980's. In the northern part of WI based out of Appleton,WI are Mill's Fleet Farm stores...Farm & Fleet sells Cub Cadets.Both are my Top 2 stores! Madison also had a Central Tractor but closed ,than Phil's Tractor was started by manager that moved store location a mile east of the old Central Tractor site.
 
I've wondered for a while why I saw references to "Fleet Farm"...Just had to Google one more time before quitting for the night.
With our economy here (15% unemployment now), we're lucky to have any Farm stores at all. TSC rules the roost in our area now...

BTW - Great Minds??? Yours maybe, but third time lately I've been "outtyped..) I am getting slow (But still using Caps and spell check
clappy.gif
)
 
BTW - I've still got at least one gallon of QF&F IH white enamel (the almost almond one..) that I bought for about three bucks when they closed here..
 
I have a 782 and wanted to put on lugged tires, in hope that I wouldn't need chains with the snow blower. I was wondering if anyone knows what the negatives are if I go with 26X12X12 tires. I put a front axle from a Cyclopes in and it raised the front of the tractor up a good inch. (Highly recommended BTW. I can actually back the lawn sweeper now.) I'm positive I can get the mower deck level again. I am just not quite sure of the fender clearance.
 
David Rohacek and Kraig M. Kraig is correct with there are clockwise and counter clockwise 15Us available. Charge pump direction and a different valve plate for each model. You can make each model into the other rotation simply by changing the charge pump rotation and the pump valve plate to the correct roration valve plate. No need to do anything with the motor.
happy.gif


I've been fighting a cold/flu bug for the past month. Just got over one and then caught another. Plus during the healing process I was told that it isn't uncommon to have leg/foot muscle spasms during the healing process. Right now I am taking AMRIX at night to try and help relieve the spasms that happen while I am sleeping. It's no fun waking up to your legs "jumping" around like they are out of control. When I come home from work I am just too worn out to prepare the Cubs for Plow Day this weekend. I'm even getting behind reading the posts here.

Everyone have a wonderful day. I'll catch ya all later.
 
Home of the Plow Special (Aaytay),
Thanks for the information and great pictures. Now I have something I never knew existed that I can't live without. I have no idea where I'll find one. But I want one.

Kendell,
I don't have a pre filter on my 100, or any of my IHCCs. I love the look and will gladly change the oil over a 10-12 dollar paper filter. For me sometimes cool wins. And I think it would be very cool.
 
Wayne, thanks, I'll try that too, even though I tested the wire and it's fine!! I'll also change the regulator tonight and see if that's the problem.

As far as diagnosis goes, is there a test I can run? When I have the key in run position, I should get 12 volts at the + terminal on the coil, right? That means I'm getting juice to the coil. If the coils tests good, the condenser and the points are good, the regulator is good, and the plug wire is new, boy.... that's gotta do it, right?!?!?!?!

I'll try all that tonight after work. Any more ideas? Thanks.
 
Here I go AGREEING with KENDELL again. He's correct, oil bath air cleaners are no where as good at filtering dust/dirt as the OEM pleated paper filters. I've spent hours on the OEM manufacturer's sites looking for the percentage of dust/dirt removed by an oil bath and the companies do not specify. If You look at their construction most use a very coarse steel mesh about like a scouring pad as the filter media, You could almost pour sand thru them if they weren't oil covered. The pleated paper elements I've seen tests for all run between 95% (most K&N's) and 99.99+% (everything else that runs dry).

I would NOT remove a dry pleated paper filter and replace it with an oil bath on a working tractor.

I did a Rattle Can paint job on my 72 back in about Jam & Feb. of 1981 when I first got it, I used IH paint. It looked really good for about 20 yrs. but it's starting to show it's age now. Agreeing with Kendell again, the next paint job will be with base coat/clear coat with hardener. Northern Tool & Harbor Freight both sell a cute little Detail paint gun with the top mounted paint cup. I've got 3-4 of the old quart sized paint guns, one's even a really good DeVillbis and I can't afford to spary with them. Takes a gallon of thinner to clean the gun when I shoot a quart of paint! I can clean the detail gun with a cup of thinner.

PAUL R. & I both have the advantage of living close to the dividing line between BLAIN's F&F and MILLS F-F.
 
Kraig, or anybody else out there.... there's a picture floating around on how to test the regulator. Can you repost? Thanks!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top