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Archive through October 07, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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jmitchell

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
97
displayname
John E. Mitchell
Kraig...Hey thanks for the photo..I now have a workable solution to the lift handle bracket after seeing the fastening loop fits around the yellow forged/cast(?) section of the lift arm instead of the chromed section.. With the overall length of the forked type bracket I got with the blade, I'll need to drill another pair of holes about 3/4ths of an inch below the originals and use a different more rounded U-bolt to get down lower on the yellow section for me to feel it's super solid tight. I think it'll work out great. I might buy two new U bolts and try to double up, just for S&G's. LOL..

Harry, I did get the grader blade set-up, but did not get a good chance to look at the snowthrower, as it was still in the barn loft of the nice elderly man who has it. He's supposed to have his Grandson move it to edge of the loft this week and help him put in the front end bucket of his AC D15, where I can examine it in the bright light outside..I reckon that'll happen this Saturday after I get off work.

Got my new front tires mounted with tubes, also Kohler points to coil wire replaced,new points cover gasket. Points look good and are gapped correct. Intstalled a new condenser. Pulled the fuel tank, cleaned it, cleaned the sediment bowl/cut off valve. Have the carb off and apart, bagged up, ready to drop in to the ultra sonic carb cleaning tank at my dealership on Saturday. New kit ready to go back into it once it's clean. Have a new 285 amp battery. After I get the fuel system back on, I'll be ready to try and locate the electrical death problem...I don't want to buy another new harness..But I guess if this one got mangled up on the driveshaft, or cut/rubbed through like the original somehow did..If I can't soldier the broken wires and use water tight shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints. I guess I'll be forced to..

Thanks guys..If anyone has ideas on repairing harnesses, please feel free to tell how you did it..

Regards
John
 
Good morning all!

John M- I had a problem with the u bolt that liked to loosen up on my narrow frame. I used a flat washer and double nuts on each post of the u bolt. Seems to be holding fine on my model 72! Perhaps your idea of holes .075" below the originals will work.
 
Hi all. New to the forum and excited to learn from you all and hopefully add value myself going forward.

I am picking up an Original with serial number 5406 and nee do know how wide the mower deck is so I can rent a small trailer from Uhaul. Does someone know off havd the width of the original decks? Thank you in advance for any information you can provide.
 
Hello Ken!
May I be the 1st to welcome you aboard!
I just went and measured the deck on My O and it's right at 40", maybe an inch or 2 more, (it was standing up in a corner)
You have a very low serial number I see!
Congrats!
And you live in the Cub's home town as well!!
Dave S.
 
I went out to get started splitting some wood and the 149 is showing its butt. I choke it until it hits then it spits and sputters and just won't start. I had this problem before and I thought it was the condenser so I've tried 3 others with no improvements. I ohmed out the coil and it is well within its ranges. I checked the timing and it's right on using the static timing method. I cleaned the spark plug and the gap was/is fine.

Anyone have any ideas as to what I should try next? We have had exceptional amounts of rain (here in the Carolinas) as you probably have seen on the news and I thought that moisture might be an issue but the tractor never got wet or any wetter than the others.

Any and all input will be appreciated.

.
 
wayne are you getting fuel, sounds like that
 
Jeff-

The fuel is fine. There was gas in the throat of the carb and the tank is almost full. I also recently went through the carb and gave it a good cleaning and a new kit.

Now, I need to learn to practice what I preach because the one thing I didn't do was try another spark plug...just like with the 1650 when it was doing the same thing. Anyway, I tried another plug and it fired right up. It once again runs like a sewing machine (knock on wood).

I read recently that when someone asked Craig Stadler (pro golfer) why he was using a new putter he replied, "my other putter didn't float". Well, spark plugs don't float either.

It never ceases to amaze me how simple fixes usually are. I was thinking that the whole time while working on it.

So, anytime in the future if I ask for help always ask if I changed the plug. I can't seem to remember.

Thanks for being here and happy cubbing. I now have a crap load of wood to split.

.
 
i had a question on the kind codes I found on the faq. I saw my kind code of 0670, then in () it said (hvc). what does (hvc) mean? I got a good deal on a 1650 and im gonna pick it up this weekend but im trying to find out more about it from the serial number. thanks guys!!!
 
John E Mitchell - glad to hear you got the blade. The QA42A Thrower is pretty heavy so if it's in a loft it will need help.

Now, about your bracket on the lift arm. Kraig mentioned there were a couple versions. I know of at least 3 versions. One has a round hole at the bottom to slide over the cross frame rod. One has a slot on the bottom to just slip onto the rod. One has a slot and J-shape at the bottom to slip over the rod and gets held on with a small bolt (about 3" long). As far as I know they are pretty interchangeable to the various model tractors. Also, they do use "special" U-bolts to attach the top of the bracket to the lift arm. You can make up a new U-bolt but you'll need a torch to make it fit nice. I've never known it necessary to drill new holes in the bracket. Can you post a pic of the bracket you do have? I'm wondering if it is even an original IH version.
 
Harry:
Just a thought. If you get the QA42 consider getting a hydraulic lift. When I first put mine on my 129 I couldn't lift it with the manual. That is when I decided to get a lift and it is wonderful.
Earl
 
Corey S. HVC probably means Home Vehicle Compliant meaning that it meets government required standards for noise and pollution.
 
Hydro, yep 3 different versions of the lift bracket. Yes, I only wrote "a couple" but I should have been more specific but didn't think I'd need to... I might have all 3 versions around here somewhere. Either in boxes or installed on a tractor. Most of the ones I have are those with the J shape bottom. The one in the photo, which is of my #2 125, is the version with the J on the bottom for the bolt. Here's one from my spare parts collection (unless I sold it???) that I happen to have photos of, it's another J style. Though it appears that it may have been modified in some way. I might have to dig this out and have a closer look. I think the 102 that I used to own had just the hole on the bottom.

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Harry & Kraig...The bracket I got with the blade appears to be just like the one Kraig posted last..The U-bolt is sort of a squared up deal with a small piece of pipe tubing on one side. That particular U-bolt will not fit around the forged/cast section of the lift arm, so I used an OD tape to measure the outside diameter of that section of the lift arm and went to my friendly local NAPA and bought a muffler clamp..The U-bolt from the muffler clamp fits around the lower arm PERFECT. I don't mind if the bracket has a couple of extra holes, as this 126 has been planned as a working beast from the start and not a show worthy restoration, just a mechanical restoration. I hope to find the time this Sunday to hoist the beast upright with a chain hoist and thoroughly examine the wiring harness and either make repairs and start it for first time in 2 years, or make the determination to order yet another harness..

I have purchased new Moose Utility H-D inner tubes for the rear tires, and am putting together a tire fluid filling rig as I plan on using windshield washer antifreeze fluid as weight on the rear. Each 23-10.5-12 turf tire will hold 5 gallons of fluid, which will add 80lbs total for both tires of unsprung weight to the drive end of the 126 for not a whole lot of moola.

I'll be sort of glad to get this project done, and grade some gravel before cold weather sits in.. It would not bother me if I DON'T need to plow snow this winter with this 126, but I want to ready to go if need be. My wife thinks I've lost it, as I have a full size farm tractor with a 6ft rear grading blade. But man I got to say..Over on Youtube, those guys are doing great with the Cubs with chains using blades and snowthrowers AND look like they're having fun doing it!

You guys are the best..I appreciate the nature of this board.

Regards
John Mitchell
 
My Dad is an old school farmer, turned tractor service technician, turned missionary (well called actually) and every once in awhile he still amazes me with his ingenuity! We finished the Chief project about a year and a half ago and he has put that thing to work! In his 60's now, dad doesn't care to do heavy bull work and that is understandable although he is still capable of it. Work smarter not harder! So, last winter we were talking about making a platform for the back of the Chief if he could ever get his hands on a 3 pt lift for it. Well, his son who likes to buy, sell, fix, restore, etc old cubs procured a 3pt lift for him at no charge. So, he got to work and designed a super cool "knee action" rear lift platform that raises parallel to the ground. It goes all the way flush to the ground and lifts to a height of about 6" for transport! More about it on the Chief Resto page. <--- MOD EDIT: Added link to the Chief Resto page.
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Dad's rule!

Have any of your guys built anything like this before? It sure is handy and removes in about 30 seconds. I'll be displaying it at HPD I!
 

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Joshua-

Where is this "Chief resto page"?? I thought it was in the sandbox but didn't see it.

I've been needing a carry all to move things for a while now and would like to see exactly how your father rigged the lifting action. It's easy to see he has some engineering blood in him.

Neat attachment! Thanks for posting.

.
 
Hey..I meant to ask a while ago, but forgot. I did not count the turns on either of the carb adjustment screws when I removed them from the carb body, while readying it for a dip in the ultra-sonic cleaner. I saw no use in removing the idle set screw, so I "presume" the other two screws are for air/fuel mixture at WOT and air/fuel mixture at idle and just above.. The long needle with the drillings on top for WOT, and the shorter screw on the right hand side of the carb set in at an angle is for idle and just above..Is that correct? What would be good initial settings for both screws off of just seated/barely touching the bottom of their respective positions?

Also, beyond a wiring schematic, Is there an illustration that shows the routing of the wiring harness?

Thanks again (and again)

Regards
John
 
John M., this should answer your carburetor query:

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This is from the Operator's Manual for the 1x4/5 series, the series Cub Cadet before your 126. They should be nearly the same. It kind of shows the routing if you imagine the chassis being in the drawing.
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EDIT: The main bundle of the wiring harness runs down the right hand side of the chassis.

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I have a 149 Cub and having a problem with the hydrostat. For a S/n 2050047U tractor, was the hydro made by IH or another manufacturer? if different than IH, who would have made it? Put this thing in gear and nothing happens!Has fluid and engine is running great. was working fine pulling a light sprayer and just stopped.
 
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