• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through October 07, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Roger, Welcome,, you more than likely broke the drive pin. It connects the drive shaft to the engine drive coupler.

this is the drive hub connected to engine


  • 299554.jpg
    2.7 KB · Views: 113
  • 299554.jpg
    2.7 KB · Views: 110
and here is the drive pin, replace with this and not a roll pin they wont last


available from our sponsers above

pictures are from CCspecalties


  • 299557.jpg
    2.9 KB · Views: 120
  • 299557.jpg
    2.9 KB · Views: 110
Thanks Jake. After further checking you were right. It was the drive pin. I'll get a couple ordered pronto. Thanks again!

To begin with, his actual name is Jeff but he might answer to Jake...I just don't know.

The pin Jeff mentioned is a solid, hardened pin. If your driveshaft isn't wallowed out the pin can be a little difficult to install. You will more than likely have to remove the driveshaft. One "trick" to installing this pin is heating the driveshaft and placing the pin in the freezer. If you need the tractor in the meantime you can use a 1/4" bolt/nyloc nut. I have used several and they work just fine. I have a few tractors that still have the bolt I substituted a good while back. The coupler Jeff spoke of may also be an issue. They are constantly hammered by this pin and get wallowed out sideways. They are a little pricey so I just weld and resize them. If you take your driveshaft out I would check the coupler but if you are again, in need of the tractor, the bolt will get you through in a pinch.

Just my .02 worth. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Wayne S--did you find that thread on the Restorations and Refurbish section of the forum? The Chief thread is near to top again with the fresh post.
Hello all!

I now have my IH 42 front snow blade installed to my 1450. However the hydraulic lift will not pick up the blade. Its my best guess that the hydraulic lift arm is out of travel. It functions fine as long as the long lift rod is not connected at both ends.

I think the rod is too long. Might be for a snow thrower/blower?

Would some one please be kind enough to inform me of the correct length of rod needed for my set up?

I did check with both faq's and did not see my answer. If I have the incorrect rod, then I would want to try to find a member who needs it before I improvise the situation.

Thank you in advance!


  • roflol.gif
    4.4 KB · Views: 109
John E Mitchell - you mentioned a pipe sleeve on one side of the U-bolt for your lift arm bracket. There are supposed to be 2 of those little pipe sleeves, but they are to be used on the earlier style lift arm that doesn't have the cast bottom. You might be able to get away with the muffler clamp U-bolt but you'll likely have to drill the holes a little larger in the bracket itself. Also, I think you'll find the top of your muffler clamp U-bolt will rub a little against the side of the dash tower when you move your lift arm back and forth (I seem to recall having tried the same thing before).

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - guess you should really post pics of all 3 versions. I seem to recall pics in the snow blade operator manuals (guess it could be a RTFM moment).

John Lazar - the lift rod should be around 27.5 to 28" if I recall correctly (It's the same length for a snow thrower on the 1450 as well). If your lift rod is 31-32" it's for a narrow frame tractor. Just to make sure the lift rod is really your problem I'd drive the tractor front tires up on a 2x8 or 2x10 plank and then try to raise the blade. If it lifts a little then you know your lift rod length is to long and causing your problem.
John; after being sure my tires are aired up correct I like to place my tractor all four wheels on wood blocks about 1.5 inches high. With blade resting on the ground I measure the length the rod needs to be. I then make a rod that length. That should give you enough drop when spreading dirt or gravel and also give you maximum lift. I like a rod that is more rigid than the factory rod. Just my 02c.
Harry Bursell- My lift rod is a full measure of 32 inches! Thank you for the reply, and the information identifying what lift rod I have. Also a thank you for the measurement describing the lift rod needed for my set up should I come across one unexpectedly! You are the best!

Luther Ray Hinds- I'll have to admit, that's the most priceless two cents I ever got! Fantastic information! If I can't scamper up the correct lift rod, I can resort to the many different possibilities for a lift rod now planted inside my bean!

I should update soon!