Archive through December 26, 2012

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Jon Stevens

Don`t buy another pump when all you need to do is to replace the shaft in the hydro pump.I BTDT on a 1512 ; I installed a shaft from a 149 hydro to repair my damaged shaft.They are the same shafts even on the later ones like my 1512 has. I bet you could find a shaft much cheaper that the whole hydro pump.Just order the new seals for the trunion and the case gasket plus the shaft gaskets before you take the pump apart.Oh and the gasket from the pump to the rear end.

 

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Terry Davis

What did you use for grease? I have some here that is not affected by water . The heat from it`s operation will soften most greases and cause the excess to be flung off the joints.

 

[jstevens]

Thanks Don! The only problem is I've seen hydro pumps for @ $100, while Cub Cadet is listing a replacement input shaft for over $400! And since I dont have a spare pump laying around, I'm going to have to find one anyway. By then I would imagine that its just as easy to change the whole pump out. But it's good to know that they are interchangeable!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jon S. You could go through one of our sponsors and get a good used pump for your tractor or just a shaft and the rebuild your hydrostatic pump and have a pump as good as new. As I always tell people to remember this. MTD/Cub Cadet is naturally going to be a LOT higher than going through a Sauer Danfoss Distributor for the same part. I'd personally find your nearest Sauer Danfoss Distributor in your state and get a new shaft/rebuild gasket-seal kit from them if you don't want to get a good used pump.

 

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Jon Stevens

I found a used shaft off evil pay for 20$ and replaced mine after new seals and gaskets.My pump is ported and I bet a ported pump cost more than 100$ .Just so You know a ported pump face will fit a non ported pump by replacing the front

Under edit , The pump shaft has a taper in the outside of the hole to make the pin slide in .

 

[jstevens]

No Marlin, the driveshaft is in good shape, it's the input shaft on the pump that is worn. The hole is not that bad, but the input shaft is certanly smaller in diameter than the drive coupler that goes over it. I know its suppose to be a little loose, but there's more play in it than what I assume should be. And I've seen complete rear ends with hydro pumps for around $100. Now that I might need one, the prices will be much higher, of course.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jon S. You are quick. You read while I was editing my original post.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Amy, the set screw side should face toward the snowthrower. Make sure that the pulley is lined up with the PTO pulley.

Terry, that would be normal for grease to be slung all over the back of the auger housing near the sprocket end of the drive shaft. I have several QA snowthrowers and they all do it. Or maybe I just use too much grease.

 

[jstevens]

Well Marlin, unless I'm blind, I didn't see a shaft on our sponser's pages. Believe me, I do look there first. The only problem I'm going to have on a used one, is could it be as bad as mine.....

 

[jharder]

Good evening fellers,
I built a 782 out of some parts I had laying around to maxe a snowblower tractor out of. It has a issuse I can not get fix. If you just barely touch the throatle it will scream wide open.Faster than it should Then when you try to slow it down it will slowly go to a idle. I have tried to adjust the sensitivity on the gov. Helped some. Starts fine doesnt use any oil no smoke. Anyone got a idea? Thanks Jim

 

[kmcconaughey]

Amy, this is from the QA36/QA42 Operator's Manual but the belt alinement info would hold true for your CW36.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jon S. I'd go to a Sauer Danfoss Distributor in your area before I'd go through Cub Cadet. You'll be pleasantly surprised at the price difference.

 

[akleyla]

Ty Kraig,I started to put the pulley on the other way today and I kept looking at it but it just didnt look right...this may explain why its jumping off. I will switch it in the am an go play to see if this fixes it. I looked at the alignment an it seemed straight but there just isnt much room to see perfectly. Hopefully this will fix the problem ! The drive sheave is the name I was trying to think of...Glad ya could understand what I was sayin TY again

 

[hydroharry]

Jon S - I've been trying to follow your questions and members responses. You started by saying the roll pin would just fall thru. If that is true then there is likely something wrong with your coupler as well as the output shaft on the pump. Using a nut and bolt could cause wear in both the coupler and the pump shaft. This connection is supposed to use an IH Cub Cadet roll pin (sometimes called a double roll pin or spring roll pin or spirol pin), and in this application it is very important you use the correct roll pin. You can't just use a "used" roll pin especially if you already have a little wear in the holes. A standard slotted hardware store version roll pin may fit tight to start with but will usually not hold up very long. It just doesn't keep enough tension. Before getting a new output shaft, and new driveshaft coupler (or is it a one piece drive shaft with coupler built on), I'd certainly make sure you try a brand spanking new correct size IH Cub Cadet roll pin.

Amy - hey glad to see you're back posting. I was worried about you and your thrower. You know I think most of us call that a "pulley". I've had people tell me it's more correctly called a sheave but most things I've found say they are really the same thing.
Now, about your pulley alignment, and throwing the belt. It sounds as tho you never had this problem before, and you really haven't changed anything. I can see by the set up that you can hardly see the belt alignment. Even the CW36 Manual does not have a pic so you have to assume IH couldn't see it either. I assume you're gonna have to dismount your thrower to reverse the pulley so I'd suggest you look at the thrower gearbox shaft for marks. You can probably see where the set screws were originally tightened down. Not from this time since you reversed the pulley but your previous installation. I'd certainly put the pulley back at this point and then reinstall the thrower and try hard to see the alignment as well as you can. I usually tried to hold a straight edge, something like a 1 foot ruler along the belt to help give me a sense of whether it was aligned straight up and down. I suppose you could even hold a torpedo level in a vertical position along the ruler, but that only really works if your PTO clutch pulley is true vertical to begin with. If the clutch pulley is not truly vertical but you can determine how much it's off then you can calculate the same amount for the belt to be off. Hope this helps.
Also, in an earlier post you mentioned reusing your old auger bearing but you greased them. I'm sorta wondering how you greased them. I think they have a seal so did you use a needle insert? I do hope your bearings hold up thru this season. Although now you know the procedure to get at them for replacement which will make it easier when you do replace them.

 

[jstevens]

Harry, I bought 3 brand new roll pins from my local cub dealer. Within an hour of mowing, I had gone through all 3! The coupler seems to be tight. Once I get the drive shaft over the input shaft and the bolt I'm using (a 1/4-20 shoulder bolt), I dont have any side to side movement, but up and down movement along the bolt path. I've been looking at several different parts diagrams, and most that I've seen call for a ball bushing there at this connection. Could my problem be that there is no ball bushing there presently? It is NOT a one-peice shaft. The holes seem tight, But it's almost like the coupler is too big. I dont see or feel any difference in the input shaft diameter. Could the coupler be worn that bad where it fits over the input shaft?

 

[hydroharry]

Jon S - glad to hear to tried brand new Cub Cadet roll pins. I wanted to make sure you weren't over-diagnosing your problem. Your questions now are really specific to the assembly of your specific '82 series tractor and unfortunately I can't help. My experience is everything prior to that. But I know there are some diehard 782 guys on here that can certainly help.

 

[jharder]

Jon
What I have done in the past is pull the shaft and take it to a good machine shop and have it welded up and turned down and a new hole drilled in it. Jim

 

[ljones]

Got the snow, it wasn't too bad we never lost power. Gave the 122 a good workout, after the driveway and paths I made a snow pile out in the field.

New tire chains.

 

[akleyla]

Hello Harry, yea ive gotten so busy here lately an havent had the time to finish it after painting it. They started talking about the blizzard warning here an how much snow was on the way so id decided to put the old bearings back on. I had drilled out the rivets on the flanges an then packed the balls the best I could then riveted the bearings back together. I actually had new rubber seals to use. I think this will get me through this year,id ordered the new bearings from Charlie which im guessing will be here tomorrow or friday.I think ill put them on the shelf an wait till spring to take it apart unless I have problems before then.

I wont have to dismount the blower thankfully,Ill jack up the front an will switch the pulley off that way or will take the drive shaft off and put it on the workbench so I can see where the old set screw may have been. LOL,nope ive never had a problem with the belt jumping like this,so after a long night yesterday putting the blower back together an installing it on the cub I was so tired but didnt sleep very well. I was up early this am an have been busy all day.

I finally got tired of putting the belt back on and called it a day an figured I need to find out why it keeps coming off ! Now I know why....

But yea,im still here just been very busy. I hope you had a Merry Christmas...

 

[jbaker]

Lucas, sweet snow chains on that 122