Archive through January 12, 2014

[dschwandt]

EXPERTS WANTED!! OK, how big a can of worms am I goona open up here if I go to swap out a non-ported pump housing for a ported one in order to add hydro lift to a 1250??? or do I really want to know??

My 1250 has the cork gasket leaking and I started out to replace that. So far w/no problems I have the tractor split and have not disassembled anything. The ported pump is on a complete tranny/rear end assly sitting on the floor at present. I know nothing about this unit other than it came from a 1650 and the PO said it was working fine prior to being parted. Frankly, I have a hard time getting my head around anyone parting a Cub, specially a 1650, that is working fine but that is another thread all together.

I know the pump/rear end assly in the 1250 works great, I'd just like to add the hydro lift is all. Will I need anything other that gasket #26 in the parts look-up. Anyone gone this route before and what if anything is gonna fly apart in my face if I open up the pump?? and yes, I have the service manual and have been reading up on this.

Would I be better off hassle wise to just swap the complete ported pump assly onto my rear end? It already had fresh fluid and filter from last summer w/very few hours on it. Just getting tired of it marking it's territory is all!

 

[dtanner]

David S

No need to open up the pump.I think there are four bolts that hold the pump fast to the rear end. Remove them and slide the pump back and replace the cork gasket before you bolt the ported pump fast. I suggest you clean up the area before you remove the pump to keep dirt from getting into the rear end . I think Gerry Ide did a great write up doing that job. This will help http://cubfaq.com/corkgasket.html number 94

 

[dtanner]

David

You will need at least one section of tubing to connect both ports on your ported pump If you have a need to run the Cub before you get the cylinder and rock shaft work done.

 

[dschwandt]

Gotcha Don! and Thanks!
I've been following Gerry's write up, very informative for sure.

I suppose it would be best just to use the complete ported pump assy from the 1650 rather than risk screwing it up by tryng to change out the front part??

I'll just have to assume that the 1650 ported unit is good to go and keep my fingers crossed!!

I have the rest of the parts, cylinder etc. just gotta get 'em mounted is all.

 

[dtanner]

David Schwandt

There are parts in that pump that must go back together one way to be correct or the pump might not work as great or at all. I would just switch pumps and save your self some grief .In the end you might be farther ahead to switch. I show all the parts in my write up in 1512 diesel page if you want to look. I did change a main shaft and had no problems but I can speak how comfortable you might be doing the same job splitting a pump and have it run as wanted. Your decision .

 

[wshytle]

David-

Regardless of what you decide to do I'd make sure a NEW gasket goes between the pump and the rear end. The odds are the gaskets you are dealing with have some age on them. If you had gone through a pump before you'd be aware of the tricks to doing it and could check out the "new" pump to make sure the 18 pistons were in good shape as well as other components. And once you've done it there's not that much to it. Chances are the pump will work fine BUT I would hate to see you go to this trouble and then have to turn around and split the tractor yet again...BTDT.

 

[kfreeman]

Tony,

The snowthrower is not a direct fit. The drive belt is a different width and the distance from the QA points to the PTO pulley is different. I guess this is because of the change from a single piston engine to twin pistons in the 782.

 

[dschwandt]

OK! I Don't have a clue as to why this was leaking!!!Not!!! Looks like it was pretty well smooshed! (is that a word I could use in Scrabble!!??)

I just swapped the complete pump unit.
Had picked up a fresh gasket from the local Cub dealer yesterday.

Will be a few days now before I can get it all back together. Gonna get a couple new hoses made up while I'm at it.
Thanks for all the support guys!

 

[dfrisk]

DAVID - That picture of that old cork gasket sure speaks volumes about what a terrible gasket material cork is. 40+ yrs ago it was normal for car/truck engines to have leaking valve covers after a few years and few tens of thousands of miles because of cracked cork valve cover gaskets.

The new "cork gasket" is a composite of cork filler and nitrile, plus several people here have cut new gaskets out of various types of rubber or nitrile compounds. Those gaskets should be "life time" parts. Just like the newer rubber covered steel valve cover gaskets that don't leak and can be reused dozens of times.

 

[wshytle]

I would personally advise against the use of rubber gaskets in this particular application between the pump and rear end. It's a fairly critical area and I've tried it several times plain and with various sealants and it always leaked. I've found only the factory composite gasket to work best. It has one side sticky for a more accurate application and I haven't had one leak yet. It's imperative that both surfaces be very clean and time is taken to be as exact as possible. I now always place the gasket on the rear end then carefully mount the pump. Using sealant may or may not have some advantages but I've found it's not really necessary.

It's a real pisser to find the rear end leaking after you've gone to all of that trouble of splitting the tractor just to find it has to be split again. The only way to find out if it leaks is running the tractor and bringing it up to operating temps and IMO the composite tolerates these temps better.

I first learned about using the rubber from a trusted cubber a few years back (I THOUGHT) then I found out from him that he never actually used the rubber himself. At the time I was glad to hear the news and made several gaskets then after trying them on a few cubs I contacted him and found this out. I was simply baffled because I just knew I had heard him speak of this alternative. To this day I can't figure out what it was exactly that I heard but I ended up learning the hard way.

Do as you wish but I am speaking from a little experience here. The maddest I have ever been was dealing with one of these gaskets and finding out I had to reverse everything and I really hate going backwards doing anything. Plus, Hytran isn't cheap.

 

[thoffman]

......and <u>THAT'S</u> another reason I like gear drives

 

[digger]

Tom H.
PHHFFFTTTTT!!!!!

 

[wheinsohn]

Tom, after seeing what I have to do to change this roll pin in the drive shaft of my 106, I like having 1 gear drive but about ready to find a 108 chassis to put this engine in and scrap this 106 chassis. What a pita with disc brakes to get to that rear pin without pulling the tranny to change it, which is what I may be doing next weekend.

 

[dtanner]

Wes Heinsohn

The 102 I got the po cut a hole so it is easy to get at the rear roll pin. I wonder just how many guys with gear drives have done a mod just like that. If you look back you will see the neat plate he made up to cover the hole he made to change the roll pin on the 102.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Wes H. After looking over the 108 chassis that I recently picked up and remembering how tight quarters Clarence is to work in, I'll have to agree with you. I just need to save up and get a clutch for the 108. Don't get me wrong. I like narrow frames however the older I get the more room it takes to get into those tight places.

Off to work everyone have a woderful and safe day.

 

[wheinsohn]

Unfortunately I put a creeper drive on my 106 about 5 years ago. With these cold temps, I do not feel it wise to pound on the input shaft to get the pin in and out in fear of breaking the housing. I guess I will pull the rear end and tranny assy. next weekend. I will change the teaser spring while I am at it. How come I never have to work on my hydros this much?

 

[dfrisk]

WES - You need one of Kentucky Ken's pin tools!

WAYNE - Richard Christensen has been using a home-made Neopreme (trade name I think for a specific brand of neopreNe) replacement gasket in one of his hydro's for probably ten years now and last time we posted about this he said no leaks yet. I haven't seen him post here or at another site he used to frequent, hope he's O-K.

Yes, the new composite gasket is a huge improvemnt over the POS cork IH used in production, just another MTD improvement of the original IH design. I put an OEM Cork gasket in my old 129 3-4 yrs before I sold it, had the PSA on it too, dried up the leak for about two years, then started weeping again. Cork will "crush" and not return to it's normal thickness like nitrile or BUNA-N (same stuff) will. The cork in the new composite gasket will also "crush" which would reduce it's ability to seal.

No "splitting" required on a WF either, I did my 129 in 3-4 hours including cleaning/degreasing the whole rear of the tractor, and changing the Hy-Tran & filter. Didn't even remove the fenders, just the center frame cover.

I bet you used too thin of gasket material. Actually, an o-ring would have been a better way to have sealed that joint, just needed a groove machined in either the hydro unit or rearend, but that would have increased the machining cost of whichever part got the groove.

 

[tkhoffman]

Ken and Dennis; THANKS

I wasn't shopping for a Blower but this one was offered to me. For little $ I'm now finding out.

Since it will need some Mods to go from 147 to 782, I will pass on it. I don't need it but if it was for free I would have grabbed it.
So the "A" was made to fit Wide bodies? The mounting bracketry, that the Thrower connects to is different, making it an "A" the basic Thrower is the same?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tony, actually you'll need a QA36B, which has the curved upper links to clear the lower portion of the cast grill of the 782 and the B should have the proper 5/8" drive sheave. I believe IH never offered a QA42B as the H42 was introduced as the larger snow thrower. You could however create a QA42B by swapping out the 3/8" drive sheave for a 5/8" and the straight upper links for curved upper links.

Denny, Richard C. last logged in last Wednesday, January 8th. So I'm guessing he's ok but just in lurker mode.

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - I forgot ALL about the "B" series but remembered the differences.

Thanks for the update on Richard too, glad he's still lurking!