Archive through October 23, 2013

[bwittman]

Marlin,

I would be interested in a bolt-on trunion repair.

I bought a trunion repair piece from Aaron Schmidt, but need to get the thing welded into place. Just about anyone can weld better than me, and that is a part which would be rather easy to wreck.

Fortunately, the Nightmare's trunion isn't too bad, yet......

 

[jbaker]

Brian Jeremiah made the bolt on and he sent me measurementsts to duplicate it, just never had a chance, he even started a thread which is in the restore/refurb area that has info..I thought it was an great idea

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?lm=1340802657&file=/219673/222311.html

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lewis, it could very well be that the drawstring location was changed to the front. It could even have been done before it went into production and only a few prototypes were made with the rear tie and were used for the brochure photos. Who knows.

I was only reporting what my photo research turned up.

Any chance you could post some photos of your seat covers? Nice 73.

 

[digger]

NOS pan seat cover.

 

[jchamberlin]

Jeff: Thanks for remembering.

Sketch of my Temporary (or Emergency) Trunnion Repair piece:

Material: 11 gauge carbon steel (1.200" thick)

The idea is to slip the piece over the Trunnion Arm, drill a hole in the arm, pass a 10-32 machine screw through the hole in the arm into the threads in the temporary piece. The key is to clamp the arm securely on the 1.610" dimension so that the piece doesn't wiggle (the width of your trunnion arm might vary slightly). I've been running one for two years now on my 149 without any problems so far. I cut the slots with a Dremel and a hacksaw blade; a laser would have really come in handy!

 

[hydroharry]

Richard C - good to see you pipe in on the head bolt torque. I actually think you're on to something. I seem to recall reading someplace that Kohler recommended using "new" headbolts. It didn't make awhole lot of sense to me at the time since the original ones always cleaned up fine. I've told the story on here several times, about the very 1st engine I did, and how I forgot to retorque and ended up with an oil leak took for ever to discover was coming from the head. The dang bolts were only finger tight and I had originally torqued them to spec but forgot to do it after running 20-30 minutes. So, if you use original (used) bolts I think you have to retorque, and even check again. If you use new bolts it's probably worth checking after running and cooling.
I guess we got 4cents worth now.

Do-Da - it may say 65xxx on the kit but it's gonna need more parts than you showed in the pic. There's only enough there to use it on a tractor with a QA latch.
By the way, that looks like a nice 73.

Jeremiah - how ya coming on that heat shield (baffle)????

 

[mhomrighausen]

Good Morning, All.

Fancy checking in this moring.

Charlie P. We'll let you keep the snow up there for another three weeks. Marlin has too much to do outside yet. It was 32* yesterday moring when we went to pick up the morning paper.

Jeff B. Thank You for finding that post of Jeremiah's.

Harry B. Marlin added five ft/lbs over the original 25-30ft./lbs. torque when he used the original head bolts. So he actually went to 35 instead of just 30.

Gotta go and help start the Dakota to warm up. Everyone ahve a great day.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, figures you would have a NOS seat cover. Very nice!

Does it have an ID tag of any sort saying who the manufacturer was?

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Nothing I can find on it or the package it was in.

 

[dfrisk]

JEREMIAH - I need to clarify your temporary trunnion repair part... 11 ga (eleven gauge) steel) is 0.1196 inches thick, just under 1/8th inch, you typed 1.20" there and really threw me for a loop.

FRANK C. - Down below you mentioned cutting the end off the trunnion arm to weld the repair piece on. WHY ON EARTH WOULD You cut the end off the arm? A year or so before Charlie started selling those parts I made one from scrap 1/4" thk steel and set it on the end of the arm, carefully lined up the rectangular hole and welded it on WITH the rearend stll in the tractor with NO PROBLEMS. I could have almost welded it by just removing the center frame cover on the 982 but removed the fender pan for more room. I did remove the cam plates, just two bolts and it's free, and I bet 75+% of the people here need to readjust the hydro on their CC's to remove the infamous Hydro creep anyhow, so that hydro adjustment is the last stem of replacing the cam plates.

If Sundstrand would have mede the end of that lever thicker, say 1/4 inch, our GRAND KIDS would be doing this repair on all these hydro CC's, NOT US. With the lever in the flat, not bent and welded yet, it would have been no problem spot-welding on another thickness of steel. But then neither IH, or the Sundstrand engineers probably thought these 40-50 yr old tractors would still be around running in 2013.