Archive through October 23, 2013

[wshytle]

James K.-

You will have to split the tractor then either take the whole pump or disassemble the pump to remove the shaft. Unfortunately both ways are fairly involved and will require time. Removing the shaft from a hydro pump is tricky but very doable. I'd read the manual first to get an idea as to what it will take. The guys here will guide you through the tough areas and once you finish the job you will know quite a bit about your pump. If you decide to disassemble your pump have your camera ready to take a lot of pics throughout the complete job. They can be a life saver.

You will need to get a new gasket that goes between the pump and rear end too. Charlie sells them.

 

[fcurrier]

Wayne: I think James is dealing with this part:

This is the trunnion slot repair piece that you remove the fender pan etc., some linkage, carefully cut the old slotted piece off and weld or have welded this one on being careful not to put too much heat on the rest of the arm and shaft. That said, if you do the initial work with the tractor on a trailer you can take it to the welder guy.

 

[tbdavis]

Kraig - thanks much for the seat pics. I'm meeting the fella this afternoon and will give him the info. I'll be sure the drawstring goes on the back and let you know how it turns out. He's also reupholstering a couple of 122 seats with the blue piping and really anxious to get those back. I guess it takes a odd fabric to be able to get the contours formed correctly on the fiberglass pan. Anyway, thanks again for your help - you're great!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Good Morning, All.

We're leaving for Angel's eye doctor appointment shortly.

Some really nice pictres posted lately. My first time on the computer since Monday morning. I took yesterday off due to a hauntingly bad chest cold.I can still feel the tightness in my lower back and chest muscles.

Frank C. I noticed that you mentioned that you toruqed the head three heat/cooling cycles. Over the years I keep asking mechanics and small engine repair guys the same ol' questions. (Different guys and same questions.) They all said the same thing about torqueing a head gasket. That is; "Do it just once and that is upon initial installation. Then forget about it. If you re-torque a head gasket then you aren't allowing for natural swelling due to heat and then cooling that is built into a head gasket. By re-torquing you are actually asking for premature gasket failure." One day, I'll quit asking the same ol' questions to different guys. Especially since I keep getting the same ol' answers that come from guys with well over 65+ years building and later in life re-building small and big engines.

Everyone have a wonderful day. I sure hope that I feel good enough to work outside this weekend. Not many so-so weekends left until snow starts.

 

[fcurrier]

O.K. Marlin - where's the Can of Worms emoticon?

Shaping up to be a nice day here "on the farm". Going to turn some dirt with a 149 and have the camera with me.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brian W., CC Specialties is where I got my key fob. Sadly they are sold out. Hopefully Charlie will get more in stock at some point.

Terry, I'll be interested in seeing the reupholstered 122 seats as well as the reproduction seat covers.

 

[digger]

Frank C.
Come on up my way.
It's turning out to be a good day to get the snow crew ready, LOL
The wife didn't get the bird bath emptied soon enough either.
Froze solid as a rock.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, we got a dusting of snow pellets last night. I'm not ready for snow yet I still need to mow one more time. Then I can get the Cub Cadet changed out for snow removal duties. I figure that's one of the projects for this weekend...

 

[bjamison]

Calling for chance of snow in my neck of the woods on Friday morning. It has turned cold enough that we are lighting off 1 of 2 wood stoves.

Probably get the chains and front blade on the 1650 this weekend.

 

[kide]

Marlin - gotta disagree. Many manuals even call for a re-torque after a heat/cool cycle. As loose as I've found head bolts on SBC's, Briggs, Cushmans, Yamahas and a myriad of others after an initial warm up, I would never skip the re-torque.. Loose is Loose and the pressure in the cylinder after ignition is gonna find a way out before the valve opens, if it can...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Just to throw more fuel on the fire, the owners manual for my Generac generator says to re-torque the head bolts after 50 hours of use. (I think that's the time it specs. I'll have to dig it out and scan it to post at a later date.)

 

[dfrisk]

FRANK C. - Did you even check that the head was flat? I always run the thinnest feeler gauge I have, .0015" thk between the head & block when everything is cleaned up ready for assembly all the way around the sealing surface. Sometimes you need to file or lightly "stone" with a whet stone the areas around the head bolts or studs, those areas tend to distort upwards too. If light pressure on the head doesn't stick the feeler gauge between the head & block you need to have the head resurfaced. A piece of wet/dry aluminum oxide sand paper and some WD-40 and a smooth machined or ground surface like the top of a table saw, sander, even a piece of flat plate glass can be used to resurface the head. Then confirm block flatness with the test again.

I think EVERY Kohler I've ever rebuilt has had to have the head resurfaced. The original head on the K161 in the 70 was warped. I could get at most 2-3 mowings before blowing the gasket. But no pieces of glass flat enough, no machined/ground work surfaces on any power tools, needed to keep the 70 running mowing two farm yards, so I got so I could replace the head gasket in less than an hour. Back in those days a new K161 head gasket was only about $3-$4 each. We painted them with aluminum paint, and all kinds of stuff to keep them sealed, but FLAT SURFACES work best.

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - I have to agree also, It's not unusual to get a quarter to 1/3 of a turn on a couple head bolts on a Kohler. A quarter turn is .013888" of tightening. THAT's HUGE.

 

[wshytle]

Frank-

I understood completely what James was talking about. To do the job right you need to split the tractor. I guess one could weld the slot on while the rear end is still in the frame but what about all of the linkage that needs to be gotten out of the way??? Have you ever tried to remove cam plates with the frame still on the rear end?

 

[bjamison]

FWIW - when I replaced the head gasket on the 126, I ran the engine several times, don't remember the sequence, but did work the engine. I was amazed at how much I had to turn the head bolts when I retorqued it - nothing sloppy loose, but definitely in need of retorquing.

It made me think a yearly check with a torque wrench might be a good idea.

Also, I have a Troybilt tiller, about a 1992 year model with a Kohler Magnum 8 HP engine on it. The tiller I bought new and is very low hours. Somehow I managed to let some gas get stale and varnished up the fuel lines and carb. I pulled all that stuff off the engine, along with the tins around the head. I was surprised to see some oil leakage at one corner of the head. Makes me wonder if back in the day it would have been a good idea to retorque a factory new Kohler engine head after some initial use.

 

[rchristensen]

Here is my .02 cents on head torquing. I've done many through the years and never had one go bad so I thought I had it all figured out.

My method was to clean the head and block and check for flatness. Clean the bolts and the threads in the block.

Install the head, torque it to specs then run it for 30 minutes. Let it cool overnight, re-torque and run for another 30 minutes, let it cool overnight and then re-torque.

The second time you torque you find you need to re-adjust quite a few head bolts. By the third time not much adjustment is needed and if I did a 4th time virtually no change.

The last time I did a head replacement I decided to buy new grade 8 bolts. When I did the second and third checks I found no adjustment was needed.

My thoughts are as the bolts get older they get weaker and that's why you need to re-torque several times. It's not the head, the block, or the gasket.

 

[kharvey]

Charlie you should plow your garden now. An old farmer told me plowing down a little snow is like
free fertilizer.

 

[bbranstetter]

For folks asking for pictures, here is my wifes 782 with its <u>fully</u> rebuilt KT17 with a 'Steer' customized hood, grill and headlight plate.

It looks a little rough but it runs so smooth and lots of power!!

 

[lpalma]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

I have two 70's with the seat covers,they are very old,look original to the tractors,but they tie up front.Did they change the design at some point?I guess I can get some pics if needed.

I have used new head bolts a few times and they only needed re torquing one other time.

Brian,
usually the rough ones run the best.

Harry,
the kit does say it is for serial #s 65xxx to 400,000.I guess I have to find a thrower to check it out,hahahah

This 73 followed me home yesterday...

 

[mhomrighausen]

Frank C. I knew that would get things lively again. Also, if I recall... Paul Bell or someone has a way to bolt something like the trunion repair piece onto the existing worn piece with screws.

As for the re-torquing a head. A couple of winters ago I had to replace the head gasket on the 125. I cleaned the threads on both the block and the bolts and sanded the head. That little fella is one of two tractors used for snow removal and my main driver for mowing. With around 150 hours on the engine and only the original torquing of the bolts there is no leakage. Of course it is one of those incredibly neat zig zag grille Cub Cadets.

BTW... Angel's eye is showing improvement. She sees the doctor in a month instead of a week.

Off to bed... work beckons in the morning.