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Archive through November 30, 2005
- Thread starter dfrisk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
You can bet that if a sponsor is a Cub Cadet dealer that they'll have tire chains.
Why is it folks expect sites to list EVERY SINGLE item they sell, otherwise they figure they don't have it?
Why is it folks expect sites to list EVERY SINGLE item they sell, otherwise they figure they don't have it?
Ted B.,
If I remember right, when I replaced the elbow on my 1650, I had to remove the aluminum frame for the heat shield and the governor arm. It does clear the governor shaft. You just turn it in as far as you can and use the jam nut to to tighten it the rest of the way and keep it secure. It does get awful close but it does clear. I never removed my carb when doing it.
If I remember right, when I replaced the elbow on my 1650, I had to remove the aluminum frame for the heat shield and the governor arm. It does clear the governor shaft. You just turn it in as far as you can and use the jam nut to to tighten it the rest of the way and keep it secure. It does get awful close but it does clear. I never removed my carb when doing it.
Don, no need to say your sorry, your query is what I needed to kick me into getting those photos taken. It feels good to get that monkey off of my back, I had the box of filters setting in the basement next to where I keep my boots and every morning and evening when putting on or taking off my boots I'd have to see that box and think to myself "I really should get those photographed." 
)
)
John G., I like the roll pin, excellent idea!
Bryan McM, where's the standard reply telling one to R.T.F.I.S.????? (Read The F.....Internet Site)
Tire chains from one of the sponsors ARE listed online....try this:
www.cngco.com/cc_gnrl_part4.html
All chains are 2 link spaced for better traction.
Kraig.....(in Mr.Subliminal voice)...."I really think I need to send out those plow day DVD's for xmas gifts"...
(Message edited by kupdike on December 01, 2005)
(Message edited by kupdike on December 01, 2005)
Tire chains from one of the sponsors ARE listed online....try this:
www.cngco.com/cc_gnrl_part4.html
All chains are 2 link spaced for better traction.
Kraig.....(in Mr.Subliminal voice)...."I really think I need to send out those plow day DVD's for xmas gifts"...
(Message edited by kupdike on December 01, 2005)
(Message edited by kupdike on December 01, 2005)
Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!! I sure did. Took a little road trip to Illinois over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend and picked up a winter restoration project. It's a 169! Looking forward to working on it. Engine will likely need a rebuild due to low compression.
Ron S.
Is that a flag holder coming out of the pedestal or did it have hydraulic lift at one time? Have you looked to see yet?
Is that a flag holder coming out of the pedestal or did it have hydraulic lift at one time? Have you looked to see yet?
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Charlie,
That's the PTO throw out arm...it just doesn't have the rod and turnbuckle attached (and is a bit rusty).
All,
Played with the 782/blade tonight...didn't "need" to, but did anyway!!!
That's the PTO throw out arm...it just doesn't have the rod and turnbuckle attached (and is a bit rusty).
All,
Played with the 782/blade tonight...didn't "need" to, but did anyway!!!
Where is Travis??
Is Travis of CC Specialties around and well? I ordered parts Nov 18th yet get no email response as to if or when they may have been shipped. I have had problems with UPS delivering parts to the wrong address before so I think I have a valid concern. I like to use a forum sponsor but I also like to get parts.
ray
Is Travis of CC Specialties around and well? I ordered parts Nov 18th yet get no email response as to if or when they may have been shipped. I have had problems with UPS delivering parts to the wrong address before so I think I have a valid concern. I like to use a forum sponsor but I also like to get parts.
ray
Ray,
Travis is indeed around and well. He has a lot of irons on the fire. I just got my parts last week and has never failed to deliver. I know he has a full time job and I think he is a volunteer firefighter as well. If it has only been since the 18th, I wouldn't worry too much about it. He'll get them to ya!
Bill
Travis is indeed around and well. He has a lot of irons on the fire. I just got my parts last week and has never failed to deliver. I know he has a full time job and I think he is a volunteer firefighter as well. If it has only been since the 18th, I wouldn't worry too much about it. He'll get them to ya!
Bill
tbordeleau
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 89
- displayname
- ted Bordeleau
Wes H.:
Yes, I looked last night and sure enough, I'll only need to remove the governor arm and maybe the big nut. However, I discovered another problem:
I knew there was an issue with motor mounts, but I assumed the original rubbers were shot because I could take the engine and rock it with no resistance.
I took another look, and saw that the left side, at least, is not connected anymore to the motor mount rail!!! Either (1), the bolts on that side fell out, (2) they backed far enough out to allow an easy 1/2" slop, or (3) they fell out because the engine threads are stripped!
Either way, the engine's gotta come out.
Yes, I looked last night and sure enough, I'll only need to remove the governor arm and maybe the big nut. However, I discovered another problem:
I knew there was an issue with motor mounts, but I assumed the original rubbers were shot because I could take the engine and rock it with no resistance.
I took another look, and saw that the left side, at least, is not connected anymore to the motor mount rail!!! Either (1), the bolts on that side fell out, (2) they backed far enough out to allow an easy 1/2" slop, or (3) they fell out because the engine threads are stripped!
Either way, the engine's gotta come out.
tbordeleau
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 89
- displayname
- ted Bordeleau
To all:
Man, I feel like I opened the proverbial Pandora's box with this one. Not that I'm really PO'd; it's easy to work on, and I'm a tinkerer at heart, I just thought I'd be driving it a bit more thus far...
As mentioned in my previous post, I just discovered that my engine in my 1450 (K321?) is not conected to the left rail. I wasn't planning on pulling the engine RIGHT NOW, but it looks like I'll have to.
Can one guy lift that rascal up and out(the engine, that is)?
Is it possible to lift it out with the rails attached without snagging them halfway up and throwing my back out? Seems like it would be easier to un-bolt the rails at the rubber mounts than get access to the bolts to the engine.
Do I need to remove the mule drive to get to the (2) rear rubber mounts or engine bolts?
Is the engine bottom cover/sump the same on my engine as the 1650? I assumed it was, and bought a bottom cover and (2) mounting rails on eBay with the intention of doing the mounting rail cross-brace mod. Discovered (1) threaded hole in the cover was stripped, but LUCKILY, I have a 3/8-16 Heli-coil set, so I can do all (4). NOW if only I knew that the cover was the same as my 1450, I can at least have a plan for it all.
Thanks for any and all advice,
Ted
Man, I feel like I opened the proverbial Pandora's box with this one. Not that I'm really PO'd; it's easy to work on, and I'm a tinkerer at heart, I just thought I'd be driving it a bit more thus far...
As mentioned in my previous post, I just discovered that my engine in my 1450 (K321?) is not conected to the left rail. I wasn't planning on pulling the engine RIGHT NOW, but it looks like I'll have to.
Can one guy lift that rascal up and out(the engine, that is)?
Is it possible to lift it out with the rails attached without snagging them halfway up and throwing my back out? Seems like it would be easier to un-bolt the rails at the rubber mounts than get access to the bolts to the engine.
Do I need to remove the mule drive to get to the (2) rear rubber mounts or engine bolts?
Is the engine bottom cover/sump the same on my engine as the 1650? I assumed it was, and bought a bottom cover and (2) mounting rails on eBay with the intention of doing the mounting rail cross-brace mod. Discovered (1) threaded hole in the cover was stripped, but LUCKILY, I have a 3/8-16 Heli-coil set, so I can do all (4). NOW if only I knew that the cover was the same as my 1450, I can at least have a plan for it all.
Thanks for any and all advice,
Ted
rbedell
Well-known member
Ted B:
(A) I would remove the mule drive.
(B) The Oil Pans are the same.
(C) I personally would use an engine hoist. Getting too old for the "backstrong" method. - LOL
(D) I lifted my motor without the rails being attached.
(A) I would remove the mule drive.
(B) The Oil Pans are the same.
(C) I personally would use an engine hoist. Getting too old for the "backstrong" method. - LOL
(D) I lifted my motor without the rails being attached.
Ken U., which one of the Plow Day DVDs are you referring to? All I have for PD10, which I was not able to attend, is about 13 minutes of video that Rob Dehli took. Not really enough to make a DVD out of. I'll have to check the size of the mpg file and see if it'll fit on a CD.
