Archive through October 21, 2012

[wshytle]

Hey Don-

I have NO idea as to whether it could be resleeved or not. It would be a definite plus if so. Maybe Dennis or Mr. Kirk will chime in about the "internal window".

Frank-

I would hope whomever did the work would know what to do in that situation with the small oil port but I get your point. I think that head gasket in your K-341 may have blown a little by the bore there. Is the green stuff due to the type of gas or just a form of mold or something? I don't see anything unfixable.

I'm thinking I may have a boat anchor for sale soon. Need one????

 

[dfrisk]

DON T - I'm not a big fan of sleeving engines, especially air cooled engines, but old FARMALL H's & M's were run thousands and thousands of hours with dry sleeves and they held up really well, plus later, the D & DT 361 & 407's in 806, 1206, 856, 1256, & 1456's ran dry sleeves, and they were known as some of the best diesel engines IH ever built, which makes them pretty darned good.

I don't think I'd sleeve it back to OEM size for a K321, 3-1/2", I think I'd take it back to no more than 3-3/8", K301 size. I'd suggest K241 size, 3-1/4" but I think that piston has a different compression height, distance from wrist pin to piston top, than the longer stroke K301/321 and would need a "Special Rod". You want a thicker sleeve where the hole is because that area is unsupported.

It almost looks like there may have been slag inclusions where that cyl wall broke, might just make more sense to hunt up a different block.

CLARK - Are you running the proper coil with the internal resistor? If so, then I'd suggest buying a condensor from some other place. The condensors available today seem to be very poor compared to what was typical 30-35 yrs ago. I think they're ALL imported from low cost countries, but you couldn't tell it from what they cost. 35-40 yrs ago you could get 400-500 hours of decent performance from a condensor, now days the good ones seem to go bad around 150 hours, and even with the "Good ones" you can get one or in your case, several that are bad right out of the box.

 

[rberg]

Is there a manual for parts break down for a complete 1250

 

[fcurrier]

Ronald: Try here? http://www.binderbooks.com/cadet.htm

 

[cmiracle]

Dennis- My coil may be stock, but it says nothing on it. I think something is wrong with it, though, because since I've just tried starting it a few times, diagnosing, it has become VERY hot. I think my guy has been giving me Powerline condensers- bet they are made for cheap somewhere...

 

[jchamberlin]

Clark: The "Correct Police"

may hunt you down and give you a ticket, but I've had good luck with the premium line of parts I've gotten from Advance Auto Parts, I think it's called their "Blue Streak" brand. Just tell them you need a condenser for a '72 Chevrolet C10, or any other vehicle of your choice which will yield a bona-fide condenser. The sponsors will have parts designed for the Cub Cadet, and the capacitance is different; but the automotive application will work --it is what I'm running now on my 149 and I haven't had a problem starting and running for over 30 hours, and I don't expect to have a problem. I'm not as confident in the parts I've received from NAPA.

Edit: Frank: Sorry to hear about the issue with the con rod, but I'm confident you shall overcome!

 

[kide]

"Just tell them you need a condenser for a '72 Chevrolet C10, or any other vehicle of your choice which will yield a bona-fide condenser. " You are kidding - right?? You do realize that the condenser (actually it's a capacitor called that by by an old radio term) has a value specific to working voltage and impedance and resistance of the coil??? If it didn't matter, there wouldn't be many different part numbers (or maybe you just think that's a scam??)

 

[rmcshane]

Frank-Sorry to hear about the connecting rod issue. Before you tear it apart completely, be sure to check and see if the rod was installed correctly (ie, meaning the alignment marks were aligned properly, and the oil hole is facing the cam on the rod cap). That would instantly relieve me of my curiosity. Not like it helps now obviously, but it can give you an idea of what mighta went worng.

I sure hope you get that tractor running soon! Looks like a really nice one otherwise.

 

[rmcshane]

Clark- Just go to the Cub Cadet dealer or the sponsors. You are going to have a bigger headache trying to convince a NAPA guy or auto parts guy what you need versus a Cub Cadet dealer. The condenser and a new coil will not run you that much more at the dealer. I've always bought Kohler condensers and never have had an issue with them.

 

[rmcshane]

Wayne- Sorry to see the damaged block. I have heard several re sleeve stories with good success. I am also contemplating re sleeving a 14hp that is bored .030 oversize. Heck, if you were closer I'd probably help you out and sell it to you.

Question is...how would you go about re sleeving? Would you bore it out larger and press a new sleeve in that is standard piston size in the ID?

Harry-Before you get "long winded" on explaining to us youngsters what the difference between a silver dollar and a 50 cent piece is, I'll save you the typing and gladly inform you that I know what that is. Don't underestmate the mind of a "youngster".

 

[jchamberlin]

Gerry: I repeat --an automotive condenser will work. Yes, the capacitance is slightly different, but the PIV (Peak Inverse Voltage) is the most important criteria where capacitors are concerned, and the part is designed for a 12 volt system. The issue I was attempting to address is the quality control and/or inferior materials that a lot of users of stock CC condensers are reporting. I've been impressed by the quality of the Blue Streak parts vs. NAPA parts, and I haven't had the issue with parts failing like so many CC users have reported.

I didn't propose it as the proper part, I offered it as an alternative, and I stand by my recommendation.

Edit: The reason I suggested the "72 Chevy C10" is because the Advance Auto people can't find a "condenser" or a "capacitor" --they need an automobile model and year in order to look up the part.

 

[jbliler]

Ryan,,, we kind of like Harry in "long form"

 

[lcarter]

The reason for the capacitor in the system is actually to allow the coil to saturate when the points open. A coil actually opposes the movement of electrons through it, the capacitor aids the movement of electrons thus balancing the system. When the points close the coil and capacitor discharge, when the points begin to open the electrons readily flow into the capacitor (and charging the coil) thus reducing the arcing that would occur, but again the capacitor is actually used to promote the charging and discharging of the coil, the prevention of arcing is only secondary . Any capacitor in the range of .25 microfarads and 600V DC will work in a 12 DC system. I agree with everyone here that the older ones are much better than what we buy now (due to poor construction) and if you find one that works, use it.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - I looked back at some of your earlier pics of the fuel line and decided it may not be as close to the exhaust outlet as I thought it was, but I still think it may be to close. That exhaust pipe gets pretty hot and your fuel line has a substantial curve in it. Can you remove some of that curve and shorten the connection while still keeping the big Kohler filter off the linkage?

Ryan - I sorta figured you'd know the difference between a silver dollar (38.1mm) and a 50cent piece (30.6mm), so I've added the diameter dimensions for all to be aware. And by the way, I liked your question for Frank on checking whether the rod and cap were installed correctly. I'd like to know that myself, and wonder if that were the case, if the crank may still be ok and just need cleaning up with muratic acid (that everyone keeps talking about for cleaning gas tanks). I'm still hoping he doesn't find much damage inside.

Jeff B - I wasn't gonna say anything but I just had to come back to you. That last pic you posted, "128...R.I.P." is really sad. Based on your motto "Owner of the finest series of IH Cubs, the 1x9" I would'a thought you keep that frame and add all the pieces to make it a Hydro.

 

[mhomrighausen]

I know of ONE shop in central Iowa that I would trust re-sleeving that engine or any other. When this gentleman gets done rebuilding a Kohler they don't have that typical Kohler knock. Then there is another shop in Cedar Rapids, Iowa that comes highly recommended for the same caliper of work. I would have it checked out before ever thinking of making it a boat anchor. Just my thoughts....

Y'all have a wonderful week.

 

[wshytle]

I went to get the 124 yard trailer puller the other day and do some electrical work it needed. I got on it and it wouldn't start for the first time in a couple of years. After getting it to the shop I changed out a few things to help make it start a little better. I got on it and when I turned the key there was one click then nothing. That, to me usually means a bad ground so I started cleaning connections. I never got any response when turning the key so I replaced the solenoid and switch. Still nothing. I honestly think the tractor needs a new harness but that will be another day.

Anyone got any ideas as to what to check next?

The funny thing is I decided to just go get the other 124 worker from the barn to use in the meantime. I took a fresh battery, installed it, and click...then nothing just like the first 124 was doing. It was just one of those times. Both of these tractors have been very dependable for a good while then both crap out the same day.

I'll take working on a wide frame vs a narrow frame any day. Those engineers must have had very small hands back in the day.

 

[dtanner]

Had a Cub seat delivered here for under $100.00 . I might have to order two more at that price.

 

[kide]

Ya know, in a pinch, I'll try anything to get a machine working again, and one of the reasons I can do that is because I've got a !@#$ good working knowledge of what I'm dealing with. BUT when I can, I use the parts that are spec'd for the equipment and then don't have to speculate why my tractor dies in the middle of the yard. And I don't have to walk into an Auto Zone and say "give me a .25 Mike 600 peak inverse voltage capacitor with a 2.5 inch lead..

Again - advise given on this forum becomes gospel truth to many, so at least, if you're recommending an automotive replacement for an OEM part, check to see if the values are the same and state that in your recommendation (and keep in mind that every time you do it, it's a stick in the eye to those sponsors that pay for this forum). I guess this'll be a continuing theme from some of you, maybe this is like the joke about convicts that told the same jokes so often they just numbered them and then were criticized if they didn't say the number with the right comic delivery... From now on, I'll just call this "Rant Number Two".... as a matter of fact, I'll just post "Number Two", which could be appropriate in more than one way....

 

[kide]

Don - great looking seat! I bought a couple of covers that looked like the originals at one of the tractor shows a couple of years ago, used one, took my time putting it on (good how day, able to stretch it to fit, etc.) Looked great until the first below freezing day when I leaned back back in the seat and they split in the corners.. They looked to be from the same Michigan Seat molds as the originals - probably just very old NOS covers that had aged too much.

 

[dtanner]

Gerry Ide

That is all good for those that have the availability for a next day at least for a part.I have spent a few $$ to Charlie over the years and still have some more $$ to spend soon. But buying all OEM parts to keep the Cub as it was made is another brag when you tell it`s history to a person who looks at a tractor and will ask. I like to pass them a key and start the Cub up and tell them to drive it.That brings a smile to my face when I see there grin.Not for sale yet lol.