I bought an off topic (MTD) tractor from Builder's Square in 1996 because that's what I could afford at the time. Today I replaced the plastic ring gear that broke on Sunday. Except for changing oil and batteries that is the absolute first thing I had to do to this tractor. Still has the original belts. I never expected it to last this long. Borrowed the neighbor's 2 year old big box green tractor to mow after my ring gear broke broke and it mowed like crap and seemed very cheap. I thought about getting rid of the MTD when I get my deck for the 1250 done but I might keep it around. Probably wouldn't get much for it. I don't think workmanship is the problem. The assemblers can only put together what they are given.
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Archive through May 16, 2013
- Thread starter danderson
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Don - did you ever post pics of the CV drive shaft conversion - I remember you posting something at the time about having to have it shortened after it was done ?? The more I think about it, the less I like the 16 Horse option, at least with that particular AQS engine, as IIRC, the frame has to be bumped also.. So, I still need to do a drive shaft - let me know what info you had on the CV vs. the Dave Kamp version..
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- Binder 1650
Quick question: Should I ground the S/G on the 126 to the S/G lower cast iron bracket (which is bolted to the block) or to the frame?
mgwin
Well-known member
Bill,
My 128 has a ground wire running from the S/G mounting bracket to where the front grille casting is bolted to the frame.
There are some excellent wiring diagrams in the diagrams section on this forum.
My 128 has a ground wire running from the S/G mounting bracket to where the front grille casting is bolted to the frame.
There are some excellent wiring diagrams in the diagrams section on this forum.
Gerry Ide
look at the MTD section for 1512 for the dog rebuild: I have lots of info on how to put in a CV drive shaft in any Cub. I do think the quiet lines would benefits most from a CV Drive shaft. My diesel is so smooth running now, I`m real happy with my Mod to that tractor. I have plans some day to do that CV drive shaft mod to my 129 loader. PM me if you need any more info or add your phone number and I can skype you.
I have 4 acer of sod to turn Sunday after noon . I will enjoy that seat time.
look at the MTD section for 1512 for the dog rebuild: I have lots of info on how to put in a CV drive shaft in any Cub. I do think the quiet lines would benefits most from a CV Drive shaft. My diesel is so smooth running now, I`m real happy with my Mod to that tractor. I have plans some day to do that CV drive shaft mod to my 129 loader. PM me if you need any more info or add your phone number and I can skype you.
I have 4 acer of sod to turn Sunday after noon . I will enjoy that seat time.
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- Dec 3, 2005
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- Binder 1650
Thanks everyone for the quick replies.
I've got the schematics, but my confusion is this:
My 122 had the ground to the frame sheet metal. My 109 has the ground to one of the front grill mounting bolts and the 126's previous engine looked like it was bolted to the lower generator bracket. Didn't know which one was correct or a mod by the PO's.
I've got the schematics, but my confusion is this:
My 122 had the ground to the frame sheet metal. My 109 has the ground to one of the front grill mounting bolts and the 126's previous engine looked like it was bolted to the lower generator bracket. Didn't know which one was correct or a mod by the PO's.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Speaking of pink Cub Cadets (we were doing that, weren't we?):
http://bangordailynews.com/2013/05/11/news/aroostook/loggers-paint-timber-harvester-pink-to-raise-funds-to-fight-cancer/?ref=search
Here's a harvester that will be going into the Maine Woods later.
On another bent, I might have found a hydraulic filter on a 125 (JackieO) that I can't get off. So far, both oil and blood have flown. The rest of that story is that she's been in the CubHouse all winter and when I went to move her I realized that I'd opened up the rear cover plate last fall (just before the 169 appeared here). A "help" order to Minnesota got a gasket and filter in here before I was ready for it. More, later.
http://bangordailynews.com/2013/05/11/news/aroostook/loggers-paint-timber-harvester-pink-to-raise-funds-to-fight-cancer/?ref=search
Here's a harvester that will be going into the Maine Woods later.
On another bent, I might have found a hydraulic filter on a 125 (JackieO) that I can't get off. So far, both oil and blood have flown. The rest of that story is that she's been in the CubHouse all winter and when I went to move her I realized that I'd opened up the rear cover plate last fall (just before the 169 appeared here). A "help" order to Minnesota got a gasket and filter in here before I was ready for it. More, later.
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Those filters on the hydro can be a bear to get off if over tightened .I used a screw drive and drove that through the filter on my 129 and that just tore up the tin filter. next was an air chisel and that got it spinning . Have fun and a
I all-ways add some hytran to the filter gasket and turn finger tight ; Then a little twist .
Those filters on the hydro can be a bear to get off if over tightened .I used a screw drive and drove that through the filter on my 129 and that just tore up the tin filter. next was an air chisel and that got it spinning . Have fun and a
I all-ways add some hytran to the filter gasket and turn finger tight ; Then a little twist .
Bill-
The wf and the nf ground attachments were a little different. The nf went from the bolts attaching the s/g bracket to the crankcase or engine and then to the frame and the wfs went from the bolt to the lower front s/g mount to the frame. The wfs lower front mounting bolt of the s/g has the ground attached and I've always found it going to the closest grill attaching bolt.
Does that make any sense?????
The wf and the nf ground attachments were a little different. The nf went from the bolts attaching the s/g bracket to the crankcase or engine and then to the frame and the wfs went from the bolt to the lower front s/g mount to the frame. The wfs lower front mounting bolt of the s/g has the ground attached and I've always found it going to the closest grill attaching bolt.
Does that make any sense?????
K
kmcgiver
Guest
Harry, I have not gone anywhere, I really do not have any intent to go anywhere. I am all about helping others with their issues. I have a had a few issues of my own over the years but now I better focus on my passion which is Cub Cadet. Of course with all that is going on I cannot get on here as much as I would like. There are only select times I have the opportunity to post in here. You know how it is, if it is not one thing it is another.
Gerry, I am sorry man but it is as a someone told me years ago and I am sure you have heard "loose lips sink ships"
Gerry, I am sorry man but it is as a someone told me years ago and I am sure you have heard "loose lips sink ships"
Joseph Smith,
I replaced my engine cradle bushings today with some homemade rubber spacers. This did solve my vibration noise. It is much better now.
However,the rubber that I used was harder than the factory bushings, but softer than the automotive end link bushings that some recommend using. It vibrates the tractor a good bit, especially at mid range RPM's. Now too bad at idle or governed RPM.
I think I will have to bite the bullet and buy factory replacement bushings.
I hope that you find that this fixes your tractor as well.
I replaced my engine cradle bushings today with some homemade rubber spacers. This did solve my vibration noise. It is much better now.
However,the rubber that I used was harder than the factory bushings, but softer than the automotive end link bushings that some recommend using. It vibrates the tractor a good bit, especially at mid range RPM's. Now too bad at idle or governed RPM.
I think I will have to bite the bullet and buy factory replacement bushings.
I hope that you find that this fixes your tractor as well.
What would cause a hydro to leave a puddle on the floor under the front of the rear end during the winter but not during the summer? Does grass/dirt get up where ever the leak is and temp. seal it in the summer?
Ken- actually yes it did. Although I also have the same issue with much more vibration than before. I too will be saving up and buying the factory mounts. I have done the cradle mod so they should last a long time. I need to order a new pto belt as well so I will just have to wait and place an order. I also plan to order the necessary breather gaskets and filter so I can adjust the valves and I should replace the head gasket as well. I'm satisfied at this point that there isn't an internal issue with the engine, but disappointed at the same time that it could be awhile before I get the money to get the parts I need. Thanks to everyone for their input. I cannot say enough good about the members and the information available on here. A+
