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Archive through May 23, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kfreeman

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Ken Freeman
Bill,

I agree with Dennis on the mowing qualities. I have been mowing at about 3-1/2". When I mow often, slow, dry, etc., I can get a good quality cut. I now believe that it is lack of vacuum that doesn't allow any variance in mowing conditions. For instance, I recently let my grass go for 6 days. All of the grass didn't get sucked upright after being bent over by the front of the mower deck. Most of the cut was OK, but where the front tires mashed down the grass it all didn't get cut cleanly, especially where the mower was turning.

I listen to my neighbor's Big Box Green MTD, and the blades sound as if they are moving much faster and they do provide more lift.

I look at some information that says that the US of A has limited a mowers blade tip speed to 19,000 FPM, for safety reasons. This is about 3500 RPM for a 21" blade, which is a common push mower today. I found a mower service manual that says anything below 12,000 FPM will not provide a quality cut.

My 44" deck has blades about 15" long. This yields a Blade Tip Speed of 13,000 FPM, at governed RPM, if the PTO and deck drive pulleys are the same size. I put the speed up pulley on my deck which might give me 10% more speed, but still a blade tip speed below 15,000 FPM. Still significantly lower than the maximum allowed speed.

I think that more speed would help, but I do not think it would be wise to try to speed this deck up 40% as the spindles, belts, and tensioner may not be up to the task.

I have thought about adding some skirting on the deck to try to get more lift but I haven't tried anything yet. It gets complicated, the front of the mower deck bends to grass over, then the discharge area of the deck passes over the uncut grass, which might be blowing the grass from left to right, and then the leading edge of the blade is supposed to lift the grass and cut it cleanly. Would adding some rubber skirting around the back of the deck add any lift? I don't know.

Sorry, for the long post. Does any body have any comments or recommendations.
 
Gator Blades do wonders for 44" and 50" deck lift and cut quality....
 
Steve,

I am using Gator Blades, and they do help. Especially since my old blades had the tips ground to the point that I was leaving uncut strips of grass when I turned.
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Dennis, Ken & Steve - thanks for the replies, good stuff.

Dennis here are some of your comments:

"The decks are supposed to be set lower in front than at the rear by about 1/8th inch (measured on the blade, not the housing) so only the front arc of the blade mows, reduces the load of the deck on the tractor and really improves the look of the finished lawn. If you lower the front of the deck too much the outside blades end up mowing higher than the center blade, makes for a poor looking result IMO."

The way you describe is the way I have set every deck I've owned on my other color tractors and will do so for my 1650.

But my Simplicity is opposite. From the manual:

"Continue adjusting... until the front tip of the center blade is 1/8” - 1/4” (3 - 6 mm) higher than the rear tips of the side blades."

The front of the deck is higher than the rear.

Ken wrote:

"It gets complicated, the front of the mower deck bends to grass over, then the discharge area of the deck passes over the uncut grass, which might be blowing the grass from left to right, and then the leading edge of the blade is supposed to lift the grass and cut it cleanly."

It makes me wonder if part of the quality of cut with the Simplicity is that the cut is being made at the rear and therefore overcoming the bending grass and loading the front of the deck, etc. of the grass as Ken describes above.

Just some thoughts.
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On the mowing subject, a sping assist helps too. If you can let the deck float lightly on the gauge wheels instead of hanging off the tractor you get a better cut.
 
Bill, One thing I notice about both of my Simplicities is that the mower decks seem to encourage more lift of the grass, plus the full-width rollers are supposed to help with obstacles better than just gauge wheels. Mower deck design, though not necessarily durability has come a ways since the 1960s. My Sunrunner is a 1987 model, and my Landlord is a 2000ish model, while my Cubs are 1966 and 1973 vintage. They all have their advantages and disadvantages though, you would really have to compare comparable tractors from each era to make a fair comparison.
 
Hello everyone, I have an issue with one of my 125's. I put a new wiring harness in it, mounted a new voltage regulator, and the generator, the tractor starts and runs like a champ, but I can't get it to charge... It charged fine when I pulled it into the shop.

I don't know much about the starter generators, nor the voltage regulator.

I checked my other 125 that is working fine, and the "F" terminal is dead when the tractor is off, the "F" terminal on the problem tractor is hot when the machine if off.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kurt
 
Hello again to all on the Forum… Last month I couldn’t resist the opportunity to pick up a Cub Cadet 72 locally for $100 which was non-running but has good compression. With some luck we should have it running soon. Unfortunately a previous owner decided to give nearly all of this tractor (except the hood, engine, and rims) a GAWD-AWFUL paint job (pink/peach on top of the original IH yellow)! I’m not planning to do a complete tear down/refurbish but just can’t handle the pink paint at all…IT’S GOT TO GO!!!! I was hoping for some advice for proceeding with a simple-but-effective repaint…I do not want to disassemble or sandblast. Are there any chemical alternatives to sandblasting that could be considered? I do have a rattle can of primer (from Menards) and a full can of Shopline yellow that were leftover from previous restorations (maybe not enough??). I’d consider using these here if I could find a quick and effective way to remove the old paint. I’m hoping for a result that will look decent, last awhile, and won’t cost much.
 
Kurt: I suspect the problem is at the voltage regulator. There are more than one kind of voltage regulator available for Cub Cadets, and they are wired very differently from a mechanical point of view. I've posted below the two types that came on the tractors originally, but from what I understand there are even more variations available. Needless to say, the connections at the regulator must be ELECTRICALLY correct.

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On June 21, 1999 at 3:55 PM Harry Bursell posted the following:

Begin Quote:
Here are some bites from a voltage reg installation guide headed "Do Not Remove Old Regulator Until You Make These Tests".
Tests 1 to 3 are check battery, wiring and make sure belt is tight (sounds like you've already done these).

Test 4. Run engine at medium speed. Using a jumper wire, touch touch one end to regulator base and the other end to a good ground. If this corrects trouble (meaning your charge needle suddenly shows a charge), your regulator is not properly grounded. (Brighten the ground wire contacts and make sure there ain't no paint to neutralize the contact).

Test 5. If test 4 does NOT correct trouble, make this test. Connect a wire from the regulator terminal marked "GEN" to the regulator terminal marked "BAT" with engine running at medium speed. If charging rate increases, replace old regulator.

Test 6. If test 5 does NOT correct trouble, make this test. Connect wire from "FLD" terminal of regulator to a good ground with engine running at medium speed. If charging rate increases replace old regulator.

The end statement says "If above tests do not show old regulator to be defective, then trouble is probably in your generator, battery or wiring". Daaa, now that's a statement I would agree with. (Be extremely careful when performing these tests. If you cross a connection of touch something else you may just ruin your regulator and then have 2 problems).
End Quote

Others who have personally struggled with Voltage Regulator Replacement issues (Donald Tanner's recent experience comes to mind) may have some further insights and/or suggestions.

Hope this helps.
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Kraig,
I guess it angles down a little, but it has to right? I'll check the mounting points as you described this week end. (been really busy)

Daniel,
Good eye! It's a 756.
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Re: 982 washer on pto clutch; that is in fact a balance weight! I believe the intent was to provide longevity of the timing gears, a weak link on some of the Onan twins. Something with harmonics (IIRC)

Ken, Good thought provoking discussion on the mowing decks and good replies by others. One thing that factors in for lift that is often overlooked is airflow. If the deck effectively "seals" around the outer edges it will need another source of air inflow to provide lift, or you end up with flattened grass etc. Some designs now days have slots to allow air in, often near the spindles.

This really is an effective way to encourage lift. The blades pull air in , it lifts the grass blades well for an effective clean cut.

A friend of mine has a 782D with a 50 C deck. To introduce more airflow he made one 7/8" hole near each spindle mount and added a tear drop shaped closure over each that he used to adjust air flow in. (Like a timing window cover on old engines)but generally keeps each one wide open.

He really has an impressive looking lawn now, however he did say that if he were to do it again he may have made several smaller holes in place of the larger 7/8" hole. Remember this was his first experiment. He did add an air hole to the belt cover by each, wish I had pictures.
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I must add that he also uses Gator Blades. Of cours as always YMMV.
 
ITS ALIVE!! ITS ALIVE!! ... But it prefers to die. The 126 is FINNALY running, it just doesn't want to stay running.. fuel problems.
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I think its time to just get a new carbeurator altogether.. Every fall we drain all the gas and make sure she's O.K. to store for the winter.. And EVERY spring we have to clean or rebuild it..
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Charles MW Krill, don't buy a new carb, they are not adjustable like the one you currently have on your 126. Make shure you have a good fuel filter, and use a good additive like MMO and your gas will be good all winter.
 
Alright. I'm gonna pull it off in a bit and see what I can do about cleaning it, then.
 
While mowing yesterday, I discovered that my 147 has the dreaded "hydro creep" as it speeds up going down hills and slows going up hills.
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I've read up on how to fix said problem, but for now, I'm going to keep driving with one hand on the lever and one on the wheel. No biggie.
 
Thanks Jeremiah, it ended up being the starter wasn't charging... I need to figure out a way to test these...

Kurt
 
Hey Guys, Recently while mowing with my 124 the blades pretty much stop if I go too fast or mow tall grass. The belt is not slipping and I have re-adjusted the wear button to PTO clearance with no improvement. Is the front PTO in need of rebuilding? I am not hearing any type of odd noises, just that the blades stop cutting!
 
Matt "S",
First thing that comes to mind is that the deck belt is stretched out to far
 

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