Archive through April 03, 2013

[wgray]

Thanks alot Bill.
Shultzie- OH YEAH!! Mine isnt quit as pretty. I have a carb issue I had it rebuild and the guy that did it said"no garantees that thing is pretty wore out" So I got it back on and it started right up, drove it around for half hour or so ran great; next day went out to start it and all it will do it turn over, wont start for anything. It ran about a month ago. Every weekend since then I have been trying to start it. So I am looking for a new carb and then it should be good to go, Then I might put a paint job on it.

 

[jclazar]

One of my favorite models, the model 71!

 

[tbdavis]

Paul - thanks for the heads up on the piston and I will call and double check the shop in the am. Hopefully not too late!! The spec is 28542E so it must be the smaller bore. Is there enough metal in the smaller bore to go with the 8 hp and is everything else - crank/cam/rod ok. The crank in it is going 10 under. So I guess it would be the 8 hp STD piston?

 

[hydroharry]

Wayne - geez, I'm sorry if you thought I was stepping on your input. I did say I agreed with you. You were the one that said they were "cheap", and I was just re-emphasizing that they are cheap. I'm glad you've been able to use yours a few times.
Now, I am wondering about another snap ring and how Bill was able to install it.

Bill J - the other day you mentioned you were putting a new fan on your driveshaft for the 1650. The snap ring that holds the fan in place is a real bear and takes a mighty good set of snap ring pliers to remove and re-install - or at least I had to borrow a really good set so I could re-install it in the past. Just how did you get yours re-installed onto the fan hub? Or did you not install it yet, and are planning to use your new snap ring pliers from NAPA?

 

[tbdavis]

Paul - looking at the Kohler Sevice Manual, which doesn't appear to address the different bore sizes, I did notice that the 7 and 8 hp have the same crank size but different bore strokes (2.5 vs 2.75). To accomplish a rebuild does that imply that I need to bore to a std 8 piston and go with a 10 under 8 hp connecting rod in order to get the longer stroke? Sounds like the 8 hp connecting rod is shorter which provides for the longer stroke. Thanks and worried!

 

[jbaker]

My harbor frieght snap rings have removed 3 sets of IH cub cadet k series grenade gear rings and is currently waiting for their next cub.

I also have done 2 fans

with that said if you can afford good ones buy them if not get what you can

Oh Bill get those bearings OUT of there.

 

[bwittman]

Harry, Wayne et el,

RE Snap Ring Pliers

I replaced the hydro cooling fan on my 1250 Nightmare last summer and bought a cheap snap ring pliers from Harbor Freight. That was, without a doubt, the worst tool I have ever owned. I took them back, and, of course, they wouldn't refund my money.

A good snap ring pliers is on my "to buy" list, should I ever need to replace another cooling fan. I ended up gluing the fan into place with black silicone. I hope I never have to replace that fan again.

 

[kide]

Scott C: (et al)
A good way to locate a leak is to clean and dry the entire area and then spay a foot powder (like Dr. Shoals) on the whole area. The source of the leak is usually much easier to spot, as it will darken quickly and it's easy to clean up....

 

[wshytle]

I don't know how you guys are using those cheap Harbor Freight tools but I have had pretty good luck with them. You have to keep in mind what you're working with and work accordingly. That's all I was saying. Everything Harbor Freight sells is cheap both in price and quality. Ironically I have used the different size needed from my HF set to replace several driveshaft fans. I've used the straight pliers on the truinion shaft plus a couple of other places I'm sure. Most anything I buy from there is with the thought that even if it breaks I shouldn't be surprised. And I'm not.

I would bet that one snap ring tool bought from Napa is probably more than the Chinese set I bought from HF. The biggest drawback there is you're stuck with one size and we all need different sizes as well as functions (straight vs right angle) throughout the tractor. I do stick with quality with a lot of my tools (like wrenches) but I simply can't afford a lot of American made quality nowadays.

 

[tbdavis]

Well, my 2 cents on HF stuff. Like Wayne, I spend money on things I use a lot but occasionally I bite the bullet and buy crap that I know is crap and sometimes it pays off and sometimes not. As for the pliers, mine are el cheapos but they get the job done. I've taken several balance gears out and while frustrating they eventually came out. Anyway, nice tools are a luxury many cannot afford - doesn't mean they wouldn't like to have them or appreciate them, they just make do as best they can with what they have. So, in short, if anyone on here has some really nice stuff and are feeling sorry for us poor guys - SEND THEM TO ME!!

 

[thoffman]

Shultzie,
Where abouts did you get that Jiffy from?

 

[bjamison]

VICTORY!!!!!!

I used the snap ring pliers I bought from NAPA and got the snap ring off and the rest of the balance gear bits out of the engine - YIPPIE!!!

However, it was a trifling experience - close to cursing uncontrollably several times as the new snap ring pliers weren't much better than the old ones I used yesterday. A combo of snap ring pliers and a small flat screw driver to pry a bit got the snap ring off.

Harry B - Yes, I used the NAPA snap ring pliers to install the fan on the 1650's drive shaft this evening. I reinstalled the drive shaft into the tractor and installed the isolators with new snubbers and my engine rails with the cradle mod bar welded across them.

I've read a ton of posts talking about how tight to get the isolators, i.e. three threads above the nut, however, since I have original style isolators, the most I can tighten is until the steel inserts in top/bottom isolators make contact and there is no more compression. I noticed on the bolts where they were slightly rusted or stained with rust from where they previously were threaded above the nut - so I was looking to that a bit to see how tight to get them. In the end, I thightened the nut down on each isolator until the inserts made contact.

So now I'm ready to install the cast iron oil pans on the 14 hp engine for the 1650 and the 12 hp engine (which I removed the balance gears) on the 126. I'm mulling putting some RTV type gasket sealer on the oil pan gasket when I put the pans back on.

I also have a super steer kit for the 126 that I need to install.

Thanks everyone for your replies!!!!!!!

Thanks!
Bill

 

[pbell]

Terry
You need to use the 7 hp rod.

 

[dtanner]

I remember a few years ago guys on here thought I was nuts to use baby powder to find a leak i had on my 149.Now Gerry comes up with the same idea. It was a good one.

Wayne ; I have a set of JET snap ring pliers . they work great and have a pouch of 6 different bits with some bent . the cheap ones the ends where the bits go in will twist and the bit will slip out of the snap ring.The set I have work in both directions to squeeze or expand the snap ring. I do have a Jet set that are stronger and have 6 pliers in a set with different size tips . they are the better set and are bigger and stronger.

Bill ; after have a bit of trouble with base pan leaks I now use The Right Stuff on one side of the gasket ; just a small bead the size of a pencil lead . just using one side allows the gasket to be reused again .btdt

 

[hydroharry]

Wayne, Bill, et al - my HF snap ring pliers are back in the garage. I guess my son found them when he did some yard work. I recall now they had 3 or 4 different styles. The ones I got have 4 interchangable heads (2 curved and 2 straight). The problem I had is the dang tits on them were different lengths and one side would fit the hole of the snap ring and the other side wouldn't. Very very very poor quality and I just couldn't get them to work - so I resorted to the ole 2 screwdriver method to get the snap ring off. Didn't reinstall yet, since I didn't finish going thru the right angle gear box. Couple things I do like at HF is their cheap vinyl gloves that keep your finger nails from getting dirty, and their cheap leather palm work gloves - they sure save my wore out fingers, and some stuff is really better thrown away after a few uses. I'm gonna take the snap ring pliers back. The package claims a life time warranty - maybe they will at least exchange them for a set that looks like the tips are the same size - or maybe they sell a snap ring that has 2 different size insert holes that fit these tips (hehehe).

Bill J - geez, glad you got the rest of the balance gear parts out of there. No more worries now. On the ISO-mounts, did you re-use the nylock nuts and original bolts? I think the original ones only get tightened to the point of the bolt barely going thru the nylon on the nut, which is what it sounds like you did. Best to check the service manual tho (which I can't right now). The ISO-mounts and Snubbers are pictured and discussed on about the 4th or 5th page right after they show removal of the engine.
Sounds like you're getting close to engine life again. Will it run this weekend????

Brian - I suspect you loose fit installed the fan on the drive shaft, then installed the drive shaft into the tractor and attempted to locate the fan correctly and install the snap ring. That's the way I always did it and it's still a pain to work at the snap ring thru the top of the frame opening. Sounds like Bill installed his and installed the snap ring with the drive shaft still out (I'd guess using a vice to hold the shaft). I haven't installed a fan now for quite some time, but I have to admit, I had a neighbor with a set of terrific quality snap ring pliers, about 8" long, and they made the snap ring tension feel like butter - I'm guessing those pliers were probably $100 pair, and never really knew why he had them. So, just suggest you check with your neighbors, you might be surprised and find they have a really good set. It sure sounds like Don T has a nice set, but when you're remote like he is, or sounds like he is, I can understand why ya can't be waiting 6 days for good tools to come in the mail either - ya'd never get the job completed.

 

[bdmiller]

Ok so I've done some more digging around on my 122 tonight, along with drywall in the bathroom. I checked out the engine specs and it is a 1965 k301 engine, as the s/n starts with an A. The spare k241 I have is also a 1965 it has the fuel sediment bowl like the one shown on here earlier. Should that be on the 122 also?

 

[bdmiller]

 

[hydroharry]

Brandon - I didn't really follow all your posts, but if your spare K241 built 1965, is a Cub Cadet version engine, then yes it's supposed to have the glass fuel sediment bowl and the metal fuel line to the carb.

 

[bdmiller]

Would that be a correct part for my 122 also? I did just find the serial number on it, the tractor is a very early 1966. Thanks so much. This site is awesome!!! Glad there are plenty of knowledgable and friendly fellow cub nuts around!!

 

[hydroharry]

Brandon - yes the 122 units came originally with the glass fuel bowl with a metal fuel line to the carb. In fact, I believe IH continued to use those for the next series (1x4/5 series), and I believe they also used them on the 1x6/7 series but not sure off hand.