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Archive through April 03, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kide

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Gerry Ide
Scott C:
Unless the tubing is cracked, you'll probably find out that it's not the tubing, or that area at all, but the dreaded Cork Gasket above it, between the pump and transaxle assembly that's leaking.. I kept trying for years to tighten those fittings before realizing they weren't the culprit. Although dis-assembly will a be little different on a narrow frame, Faq 94 shows the basic how-to and where the gasket is ... It is pretty straight forward and lets you get rid of that piece of cardboard on the floor under the tractor... BTW - paint it yeller when you get a chance - I'm a Ford guy, but that blue is bad (but you can keep posting pics, anyway, a Cub is a Cub, regardless of color.

Bill J: Little pieces make big holes anyways - you'd be amazed at the damage a single needle or snap ring could cause, and yes, eventually window a block. Others have got the snap rings off, so you know it can be done...
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Tom, Thank you for the reply. For some reason my 100 never came with a fuel sediment bowl. The delivery was rubber line from and to. I wondered why my 123 had the sediment bowl.

Since I had the carb completely rebuilt, I should be looking for a fuel line made of copper or steel such as what Do-Da Lewis posted for us, along with a gasket kit for the sediment bowl.

Bill J , Painting your blue 123 is easy as cooking chicken. Anyone can do it. I have to agree with Hydro H on the fact that you will enjoy the correct colors of the 123.
 
Terry
Before you have that block bored .010 over, you should make sure you can get a piston and rings for it. The K161 engines had two different bore sizes. Engine spec numbers 281162 and before (includes the K161 used in all 7 hp Cub Cadets) have a 2-7/8" bore, spec numbers above that have a 2-15/16" bore. The pistons for the small bore are no longer available unless you can find one sitting on a dealers shelf. The K161 pistons/rings that are available, from both Kohler and after market, are the larger bore, which is also the same size as the K181 8 hp engines. You may have to bore your block to the larger size which may change the cost of your machine work
 
Jed Stacey - K341 16hp rebuild will be a bit more than the smaller engines... The 10 thou over piston for my K341 cost me as much as the whole rebuild of a K301 12hp. I hope to have it put back together in a week or so.
 
Bill J - sorry I mis-read your post. Glad to see you're gonna try again. I really agree with Wayne and Gerry. You "might" be ok, but do you really want to be using that engine and worrying there is a chance something could still come apart and ruin it? I think that's the whole reason you removed the balance gears to begin with. If you get the remanents out of there you'll have peace of mind. (And by the way, Wayne mentioned those cheap Harbor Freight snap ring pliers - they were one time use for me - after I tried to use them I tossed them as far as I could get them to go - never to be found again - but I guess they do have a couple different versions/styles).

Scott C - I see Gerry mentioned the "infamous" cork gasket, where the pump is mounted to the rearend. Glad he mentioned that since it's the $3 replacement part that takes 4 hours to install, maybe 6 hours on a narrow frame like yours. Based on your tranny being dry of fluid when you got the tractor I assumed you had a really terrible fluid leak, which is more likely from the tubing. The cork gasket usually just leaves a "mark your spot" drop. You'll have to clean things up really good so you can determine if it's the tubing or the gasket. Do hope you have a pressure washer based on the grime I saw on your pump. Some guys don't like to use them but maybe it'll even remove some of the blue paint so you can see the "original yellar".
 
Scott,
Being that I am not a Hydro guy, I'm not really sure where the break may be in you oil line. If the line has a crack or puncture it can be brazed closed as long as the line is steel. We used to braze hydraulic line all the time on the high presseue lines on the Cats.
 
Hey guys, I'm getting a new glass fuel filter that goes under the tank on a 147. What is usually used on the threads, teflon tape or pipe dope? Thnx
 
Hey everyone, got another question on my 122 mutt tractor. What did these headlights and panel come off of?? I got the correct style flush mounts and panel with the tractor when I bought it. Any help would be appreciated

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Brandon - if the headlight bulbs are mounted in black rubber rings, then they may be the rings used on the Quiet Line series headlights. Can't tell about the panel itself without seeing the back side. I could well be the correct one for the 122.
 
Brandon,
Without seeing the back of the headlight panel I'd say it's the original, <u>but</u> those are <u>not</u> original headlights. Some aftermarket/generic version.
 
Original Cub Cadet starter/generators were painted yellow same as the rest of the tractor from the factory. Now replacement or if you took one into a repair shop then they usually were painted black. However I remember enough Originals brand new to remember those little details. The starter buttons were not painted either. I used to have one very nice collection of dealer manuals all the way from the 4-560 series up to the 66 series and that included the garden tractors. One fine day my Mom decided to house clean my Dad's implement manual drawer for him and threw them all away.
 
The panel has the mounts like my 127 would take. I can see the resemblance in the quiet line lights. Well hopefully I can find the correct cast iron grill surround and then use the other headlight panel that came with the tractor to use. Thanks!!
 
So I brought home a 71,
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I was trying to find another carb for it over the internet and I found out that some 71's have the kohler 161 and some have the kohler 161s. Mine has the 161s. I was wondering why did they differ, what are the differences?
 
Bill J.-

Yep, I "mentioned" that Harbor Freight has a cheap set of snap ring pliers and ole Harry has to try and step on my input once again. I could have suggested S-K or Mac Or Snap on but I figure you didn't care to spend hundreds of $s. I myself bought a set of those worthless snap ring pliers from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago and have removed MANY greande gears without problems. You WILL need a pair of right angle snap ring pliers to remove that snap ring in the crankcase unless you care to drive yourself crazy with just screwdrivers, needlenose pliers, etc. Everything Harbor Freight sells is cheap...that's the name of the game these days. I paid $12 or $14 for the set I have and it has probably a half dozen different sizes in both straight and right angle. They're not surgical quality tools but they get the job done for me.

Shame on you Harry!
 
Ken, how well does that sickle work? have you used it on hay or thick weeds? That looks like something I would use.
 
CAN'T WE ALL GET ALONG...
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I struck a compromise and bought another pair of snap ring pliers at NAPA. I'll give them a try tonight when my Boys are home and can see/learn the spectacle...
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I'll give a FULL report later - thanks again for everyone's help!!!!!!!

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Kshultz

that is a nice looking 71! the mower looks deadly. Love the rear ags
 
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