Archive through June 13, 2007

[fmorski]

Ralf
Follow Ken's instructions and look UP! There is a wealth of Hydro info in the FAQ section. Includes pictures and how to adjust info. KW was steering you in the right direction.
Only thing I would add is: Is the roll pin in hydro side of the coupler. If it is out, it might turn it enough to move slightly.

 

[mbounds]

Ralf: Following up what Frank M said...The shaft and the rear coupler will turn as if everything is ok there. It may not be...There are two roll pins in that coupler. Like Frank said, its the rear one that usually fools you. If it's sheared,the shaft and the coupler turn <u>but</u> the input stub shaft of the hydro pump which is inside the coupler may not be turning except the occasional "gall" and you will move a bit then stop and the cycle repeates itself...
If you could see me I'd say READ MY LIPS: Check and make sure that rear roll pin is ok and the input stub shaft of the hydro is also turning!! If that stubshaft isn't turning...fix the roll pin...!!!

Myron B

 

[dfrisk]

To add to what Frank, Myron, & Ken said....the back end of the hydro shaft is exposed on the back side of the hydro unit....Check to make sure it's turning on the very BACK of the hydro unit, It's the I think 1/2" dia. shaft about 5/8" long with a 1/4" dia. hole for another roll pin.

 

[rwilke]

Glen M. Coleman,
If your candle isn't handy, rubbing any bar of hand soap along those wooden drawer
runners works to free them up as well!

Ryan W

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard C., Oooooo, good idea!

 

[kweaver]

Ralf - Seems Frank, Myron and Dennis doesn't know what a hydro release lever/flapper is since they let that slide by ...

Your handle goes into the tunnel cover and the "pin" you seen is suppose to be pinning a spring steel flap of a thing that when turned will push down on the hydro release valves on the pump.
Madson's (sponsor) use to have them, check with them.

<font color="ff0000">Myron is it possible the valves could be almost opened and stuck letting it create his problem?</font>
<font color="0000ff">Ralf they should protrude up about an eighth inch when closed</font>

 

[digger]

I got my hands on one of the old Cub Cadet Advertising records a while back and sent it to Kraig so he could transfer it for everyone to hear.
THANKS Kraig!
CLICK HERE to Hear the ads from 1968.

 

[bbranstetter]

Wheel weight sure make the hills a lot easier. Now I can mow sideways and make pretty patterns. LOL

 

[bcorn]

Knock, Knock, Knock!!! Yes Mrs. Corn I am here on a survey about Cub Cadets. You say your husband loves his Cubs more than you! No I am sorry Mrs. Corn I can not come in and stay awhile your husband might come home, Oh he goes to the shop first and I would have time to escape!

.

Thanks Charley!! Still cracking up. 1968 graduated from high school that year!!

Pops

 

[jcarlton]

Hey all found Original wiring Diagram, made harness and fired Original up and ook victory lap around the block. Hunter's(new son) a little upset he didn't get to ride was takin' a nap....gotta run time for work, next on schedule tear down and prep for paint....someday I'll have pics

 

[csanderson]

I think someone had a really long day, yesterday and last night. Was about 1:00 or 1:15 when the fire finally got re-lit. I think Charlie is self abused, so he might get to sleep in a little this morning. I'm glad I don't have to catch a commuter trolley like Bryan, though. That might be a little rough this morning. Thanks, guys, for all the guys that are signed up, but don't talk.

 

[kweaver]

Pop's - I know where ya comin from. When I was making the Pin Tools I'd be in the shop from 7am til 12am. Of course though the ol lady was also at work during those hours so why go in the house ?

Charlie - I'll listen later, got it saved. If Kraig is ever to busy to transfer stuff I can do anything to anything ... except 8 monkey meter. (film)

GLAD the forum is back ... stupid routers

 

[rkrestel]

To all helping...Before i signed up to do this i did "look up" and read every faq that you had on this page, i wouldnt be here if i didnt think my problem was more involved than that. I really am appreciating all the help, i had a long day at work yesterday and didnt get to look at it at all, not to mention my local cub dealer was sold out of the gasket for the rear so i couldnt do a hy tran change. As i said about the release lever, nothing is attached to it so i know it doesnt do anything, when i picked the cub up though it rolled fine, not like a complete free-wheeling, there was a little resistance but not much at all, since i got it home i cant push it at all now, the wheels wanna turn opposite (so at least i know the diff is doing it's job), i did fire it up when i got home and she didnt move one bit, i know the part of the shaft you're speeking of a little half inch exposed part of shaft right behind the rag joint, it turns constantly at the same speed as the shaft, whether in neutral or forward or reverse.

 

[mdomenic]

Ralf, if your sure nothing is wrong with the input to the hydro and the oil is good you may have to tear it down and take a look inside. A replacement hydro is not that expensive.

 

[rbedell]

Ralf:

Here is an image for you to study.

There are two check valves. One for Forward and one for Reverse. They are completely interchangeable. The buttons on the top of these valves are normally "up" for hydro operation. When these buttons are depressed, then you can roll the tractor. The possibility exists, that these button(s) are stuck. Remove them, and clean them up. Make sure the internal parts have free travel.

Next thing, is there is a "charge pump relief" valve that may have a problem. If this opens prematurely, the hydro will build little or no pressure, thus no movement. Take apart that Charge Pump Relief valve. See Image.

This valve (spring & ball) has to move freely in order to build pressure. Clean this up and see if that makes a difference.

 

[nbextermueller]

Hey guys, I've been on hear for awhile. Getting to know as much as I can.

But now I have a queation about my own tractor. I have a '71 Cub 128. It has a 12hp Kohler and a 48" deck.

My question concerns the deck. It has been used and abused for years. On the blade side, It seems to be missing both pieces of metal that create the little half circle around the blades. But they are both "broke" in the same spot. Is it supposed to have one around the back of all 3 blades?

Also, It has a standard open end the the grass blows out of on the right. But the left end is open too. This doesn't seem right? It doesn't look torn, cut, or broken. It is a nice straight open end. Did they ever make a deck with 2 open ends? Or should I be welding a new end on the thing to close it up.

I took some pictures then had issues with my camera. I'll try to get them up asap. But till then, it never hurts to ask.

BTW. the tractor is near identical to the 129 in the For Sale forum. deck and all. But it's hard to see the ends in the pictures.

Thanks!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Nic, there should be a block off plate on the left side. There are at least 3 different versions of the 48" deck, your 109 could have any one of them on it but I doubt it has the first version so I didn't include that here. Most likely it's the top one below. This parts view does not show a separate baffle, I'm not sure if they welded the baffle in on this version or not. Compare the drawings to the deck you have. Note that the top one does not have gauge wheels and the "hoops" at the ends are almost flat, (They should be flat on one side and half rounds on the other). On the bottom drawing the deck has gauge wheels and the "hoops" are round.

 

[mgonitzke]

Nic B.-

Welcome to the forum! I've had 2 128's, and still have one of them. They are great tractors. That "half circle" thing around each blade is a baffle, which helps the deck cut better. There is supposed to be one around each blade.

 

[digger]

Nic,
here's a home made version someone did a while back.

 

[fmorski]

Kentucky:
I know what the flapper is! I have almost every hydro model that was made. Most don't have the flapper/release still attached. The roll pin is stil there, but the thin spring steel flapper was shredded by the mower years back after it fell off.
Are you suggesting that the lever is in the activate position and releasing the valves partly?
I was just pointing to one item tht has happened to me in the past. I see that the roll pin is not sheared so my suggestion is not the problem.

1968...the year I could LEAGLLLY consume adult beverages!