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Archive through December 13, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Park Rapids Mn.
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Digger
Ron W.
It's a NOS i found a while back. I plugged it in for a while but didn't see exactly how hot it would get.

Also, on the steering slop thing, Here's something I found online. I have not tried it, but it looks like a good idea.
As the Model 70 through 127 tractors get older, the whole steering system loosens up, as we all know. There are good, no-cost or reasonably priced solutions for all the causes of looseness, except for the looseness at the point where the left “Steering Knuckle” is connected to the “Arm” by a 5/16" roll pin. After trying all of the solutions I could find without much success, I developed my own. And, if I do say so myself, it is a permanent, no compromise method of solving the problem for good! My solution replaces the roll pin with a #7 taper pin which makes a perfect fit between the collar on the steering knuckle and the shaft of the Arm. You are bidding on the repair kit to perform this repair on one Cub Cadet Tractor of the Model 70 to Model 127 vintage. The kit includes the specially drilled and tapped taper pin, a spacer, a bolt to hold it in place and the hand reamer you will need to open the hole up to fit the pin exactly. Also included is a set of instructions which tell you exactly how to perform this repair. You need to supply an electric drill and 2 standard size drill bits the prepare the hole for the reamer. Many owner have already tried to fix this problem by drilling this hole out to 3/8" and inserting a 3/8" bolt. This, of course, doesn't work because the bolt doesn't fit tight enough to do the job. If you don't believe me, try it yourself. Anyway, my kit is sized so that it still works perfectly even if you've tried the "3/8 fix"!
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With no snow to plow here in NW Wis. I decided to add a little fire wood to the pile.
46898.jpg

<font size="-2">trail out to the woods
46899.jpg

looks like a nice spot to cut wood
46900.jpg

the old Sthil saw
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left behind by loggers 15 years ago
46902.jpg

1/2 hour later
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they old wood pile/trailer full
46904.jpg

only 2 more loads to go and I should have enough for this winter.</font>
Its hard to belive that December is almost half over. Temps in the middle 30's to lower 40's days and teens to lower 20's at night.
I'm all for this global warming.
 
Dave on the hyd lift rock shaft Ithink they are different If I remember right the bend in the upright piece { which the ram attaches to is more severe in the electric lift rock shaft I think Kraig or charlie has pics
 
Roland- thanks again, I'll start getting it in & adjust line up of motor & clutch shafts.
 
I have an old Montgomery wards plow that I am rebuilding. I was wondering if anyone had the measurements , or a drawing for the plow hitch plate with the three holes that fits around the sleeve hitch adaptor, so I can make one.

Thanks
Jason
 
Charlie,
Did you buy one of those "steering slop" kits you pictured below? Sounds interesting. Was it on eBay or elsewhere?
 
Ryan, JB Weld is more heat resistant than most epoxies, but it still softens up with a torch.
 
On the steering fix,
What I have done is to have the holes welded shut and re-drill so the sprial pin fits tight, I take them to the local machine shop, 12 miles away in the next big town.
After that shop closes I will have to find another machine shop, if there is one.
 
Kraig,
My deck looks like the bottom picture with the squared off ends.
 
Ryan,
If you take the pin out then just tap the level it comes right off.

I have found from experience that re-drilling the pin doesn't do any good. I even installed a taper pin in my 73. The problem I saw on all four of my narrow frame tractors is that the collar rotates about the pin. Even if the pin is tight the collar still wobbles. Here is a cross section I crudely put together to explain what I am talking about. The round white dot on the black shaft is the pin. As you turn the wheel the collar lifts and falls. The JB weld closes the gap between the spindle and the collar. This fix even held my loader steering solid.

Another thing to mention is that this fix is hidden. I have seen NF cubs with big bolts sticking out of the collar making the collar look like crap. I have even seen people weld the collar to the shaft. Talk about a one time fix.
46912.jpg
 
I have a question. I have just rebuilt a K241AS. I did not like the looks of the head so I acquired another, slightly used. The part #235461 is cast into the head that I don't like the looks of. The head I have acquired has part # 235820. It looks real good and it is not warped. However the shape is different near the spark plug hole. I am trying to attach photos however this Molson Golden must have me impaired. I will keep trying.
 
Charles "Manson" Proctor...if i send you a pic of me would you please resize me down ole....... aabout 100lbs??....
bouncy.gif
...I'm so dog gone funny!!...
thumbsup_old.gif
 
ok docky just asking .. I'v done it on my own a couple of times...but I would have to leave home to do it again...hehehe She just to good of a cook.
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...wish it wood snow...I'm ready for some major seat time....nater
 
JBweldmybutt ... a bushing in the cap would be so mo better than that crap !! If anybody ever needed shot it was the SOB that invented that crap!

Digger - remember that head I welded up fer da Rev ? Guy out there in Montanny told him he could fix it good as new ... Rev asked how. Guess what the guy said .... only one guess now ... It WAS good as new when it left Kentucky!
 
Thanks Charlie, that would explain the difference in the appearance of the two heads. I really don't plan on putting a bottle rocket on my 100 so I guess I will mount the conventional head. I did not realize LP was an option.
 

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