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Parts for rebuilding the steering column on 100

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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cub1961

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2022
Messages
199
fiddled around with the drag link and got it close to even side-to-side but still more left than right. i think i can live with it.
 

HKCooper44

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2023
Messages
77
I had the same issue when I rebuilt the steering gear on my 100. I turned mine on a shop lathe, eliminating the flat spots and recreating the original profile. It wound up being a bit shorter but that was no issue when installing and adjusting it.
 

gchunnett

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2010
Messages
66
Location
Cape Town South Africa
displayname
Gordon Chunnett
Shhhh..... has anyone whispered that many of the older green and yealla mud sucker (always broken lawn tractors) also used a very similar if not identical (but for length) worm gear steering box. So when you've battered the thread part at the top of the column to loosen the steering wheel, because you "forgot" to read the book of rules on the CC site, like someone I know, then you go that mud sucker place and buy spares there, cut and weld to correct length.

If the pin is "hardened then it will transfer the wear to the worm and thats not a great plan.

I would think that replace the threaded pin with another medium hardness purpose turned nose to a pin and allow it to take the wear, its a ~1$ replacement bolt every few years vs the worn worm... just saying
 

mgonitzke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
4,650
Location
Wichita, KS
displayname
Matt Gonitzke
Shhhh..... has anyone whispered that many of the older green and yealla mud sucker (always broken lawn tractors) also used a very similar if not identical (but for length) worm gear steering box. So when you've battered the thread part at the top of the column to loosen the steering wheel, because you "forgot" to read the book of rules on the CC site, like someone I know, then you go that mud sucker place and buy spares there, cut and weld to correct length.

If the pin is "hardened then it will transfer the wear to the worm and thats not a great plan.

I would think that replace the threaded pin with another medium hardness purpose turned nose to a pin and allow it to take the wear, its a ~1$ replacement bolt every few years vs the worn worm... just saying

Absolutely. That pin should never have been that hard from the factory. Even some really low-hour columns I have seen have the outer layer of the worm starting to flake off at sharp edges. All of mine have a Grade 8 bolt machined into the proper shape.


PXL_20210119_225845305.jpg
 

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