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Archive through December 13, 2006
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
The mention of anything makes you krazy. We all know that already!
I'd like to take a minute here to Welcome Chris Westfall as a new sponsor to the forum.
Many of you know Chris and know that he's one of the good guys and will treat you right. He has many NOS items that are hard to find.
He will also be launching his website in the near future to offer Cub Cadet parts.
Many of you know Chris and know that he's one of the good guys and will treat you right. He has many NOS items that are hard to find.
He will also be launching his website in the near future to offer Cub Cadet parts.
I got this plow a week ago and tryed to mount it to my kubota but failed so i just jerry rigged it onto the cub and works really good! i did that whole feild in about an hour. not planting season in california yet but wow for december its still about 70 degrees a day.
But quick question guys. It is just my p.t.o. kuz it seems to make alot of noise. Are all of them just like that?kuz when i release it the engine purrrsssss. It could put me to sleep. lol
But quick question guys. It is just my p.t.o. kuz it seems to make alot of noise. Are all of them just like that?kuz when i release it the engine purrrsssss. It could put me to sleep. lol
Anthony,
It sounds to me like your PTO is missing the 3 anti-rattle springs.
A simple way to test for this is,
with the engine off, and cold, engage the PTO, reach in and grab the PTO pully and try to rock it back and forth just a little, just enough to see if the pully has movement befor the crank shaft/motor wants to turn.
If you can wiggle the pully back and forth a little you are more than likely missing the anti-rattle springs and the PTO will knock, sometimes you will swear the conecting rod is loose and all it is, is the PTO knocking.
It sounds to me like your PTO is missing the 3 anti-rattle springs.
A simple way to test for this is,
with the engine off, and cold, engage the PTO, reach in and grab the PTO pully and try to rock it back and forth just a little, just enough to see if the pully has movement befor the crank shaft/motor wants to turn.
If you can wiggle the pully back and forth a little you are more than likely missing the anti-rattle springs and the PTO will knock, sometimes you will swear the conecting rod is loose and all it is, is the PTO knocking.
Charlie P -
I don't have any extra information but careful study of the date codes on the Delco s/g tags for early cubs would seem to confirm what your Kohler buddy says. I didn't know that they came to Louisville unpainted though. I'm pretty sure that the s/gs went to Sheboygan first from Anderson, and then on to Lvl as subassemblies. I think Kraig's right about the Lvl works ordering them directly from Anderson by the time of the "blackstripe" zig-zag narrow frames.
Didn't someone have a picture of the first cub cadet paint line, maybe with parts on hooks? I'm sure one of the newer books out there shows this.
I don't have any extra information but careful study of the date codes on the Delco s/g tags for early cubs would seem to confirm what your Kohler buddy says. I didn't know that they came to Louisville unpainted though. I'm pretty sure that the s/gs went to Sheboygan first from Anderson, and then on to Lvl as subassemblies. I think Kraig's right about the Lvl works ordering them directly from Anderson by the time of the "blackstripe" zig-zag narrow frames.
Didn't someone have a picture of the first cub cadet paint line, maybe with parts on hooks? I'm sure one of the newer books out there shows this.
Chris Westfall, WELCOME ABOARD and thanks for being a sponsor!
Craig E., they must have been out of small boxes. Mine came in a tiny box with some other stuff I ordered at the same time.
Nate, I tried!
Nate, I tried!
Anthony, they do make some noise. Check to be sure your Cub has the anti rattle spring clips like Lonny suggested. Also here's what the Operator's Manual says, note the last paragraph:
KENtuckyKEN, dang now I have to return that case of JB Weld that I bought you for Christmas.
Brian L., does your deck have round or semi circle runners? If it has the round runners as I suspect it does, click HERE
Then in the search menu enter the text exactly as I have it here (or copy and paste it):
38", 42" 3 Spindle Mower
Then click the SEARCH button then two results should appear, click on the top one. On the right side of your screen a new window should open with a folder called "Illustrated Parts Lists" click on this folder and a list will drop down. Select this one from the list:
Main Frame and Knife Unit -38" and 42" Blade- Part 2 (1968-1971)
I believe that this will have the correct part numbers for your deck. Hope this all makes sense.
Then in the search menu enter the text exactly as I have it here (or copy and paste it):
38", 42" 3 Spindle Mower
Then click the SEARCH button then two results should appear, click on the top one. On the right side of your screen a new window should open with a folder called "Illustrated Parts Lists" click on this folder and a list will drop down. Select this one from the list:
Main Frame and Knife Unit -38" and 42" Blade- Part 2 (1968-1971)
I believe that this will have the correct part numbers for your deck. Hope this all makes sense.
Hey all, new to the sight but have been a Cub fan for a while now. I also have problems with sloppy steering in both of my 100 models. The first one has an issue in the steering box itself and will eventually need a rebuild (the previous owner already put a bolt through the steering linkage). The second though is going to need a fix at the linkage eventually. I was at work one day daydreaming about my little babies, and I came up with a solution that may work. In fact, I posted my proposed fix on the Yahoo CC groups page a few months back. I haven't had a chance to try it, but it basically locks the spindle and link together, although not permanantly. The screw threads into the spindle itself, locking the drag link from one side and then a spherical washer and nut lock it from the other side. Take a look. I haven't tried it as of yet, but someone may want to give it a go. If anyone does, let me know how it works out.
Brent
Brent
The loose steering arm on the spindle is even a problem on full size FARMALLS, And they use a tapered spline for a fix. The problem with the spindles is the same as the driveshaft holes wallowing out on high HP gear drive tractors. Before I'd try to weld up a 5/16" or 3/8" hole thru a 3/4" dia. spindle and drill a new hole I'd drill thru the steering arm and weld it direct to the spindle very carefully and grind everything smooth & flush and paint it. We're all just applying WAY to much force on too small a diameter thru too small a pin. The later model MTD CC axle upgrade with the splined steering arm & tighter turning radius would be a LONG lasting permanent fix.
John L.
I gotta tellya, that black dog looks like his after burner is lit!
I gotta tellya, that black dog looks like his after burner is lit!
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