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Loose Steering on Narrow Frame Cubs

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pstanaitis

New member
Joined
May 26, 2013
Messages
4
displayname
Pete Stanaitis
Steering can get loose for many reasons. Several sources of loose steering can be corrected by making adjustments or by replacing tie rod ends. But the biggest problem is the looseness at the point where the left "Steering Knuckle" is connected to the "Arm" by a 5/16" roll pin. The holes in the parts wear out and sometimes the roll pin even falls out. Some folks replace the roll pin with a bolt, but the fit isn't good enough. Some even drill the holes out to 3/8" for a larger bolt but that still doesn't help. Many years ago, I came up with a method to drill/ream the holes to accept a modified #7 taper pin.
MY webpage on the subject is here:
https://spaco.org/loose.htm
 
That tapered pin suggestion worked great at removing the looseness in my steering knuckle but now has indicated all the looseness is in the axle pin. Any suggestions on how to eliminate it?
 
Look under the faq section here. It shows information about the axle pivot. I just put new tie rods on my 107 this weekend, and my axle pivot showed its ugly self also. I will say the repair isn't for the faint of heart!
 
New axle pin works for me. I would also suggest a coiled spring pin instead of a roll pin for the arm. :bluethumbsup:
 
if the slop is front to back on the axle I have pulled the pin and used a bolt and nut to draw the fit back together, just don't over do it or the axle will not slip back in . Or get some shims /washer to slip in between the axle and axle fit .
 
If you can't drive the pin out after removing the coiled spring pin, you may have to cut the axle pin on both sides of the axle. So far, I have had to do two cubs like that. A sawzall worked good for me.
As stated by others, remember to draw the axle channel back together after all the work is done.
 
On a wide frame, do you need to remove the engine and/or the mule drive assembly? After preliminary look at the situation, I don’t see how it comes out otherwise. I certainly can’t get a good swing with a hammer with those two units in place.
 
If you have a deep sump pan the job almost requires at least a lifting of the engine if you drive it from the front.

Why, what's the big deal about dropping the mule drive?

If the bushings in the 'C' channel ned replaced, that is another whole issue as they are friction welded to the channel and will need to be cut and chiseled out and new ones welded back in place

Insert the new bushings with the new pin after squeezing the channel back in place.
Leave the pin in place while welding the new bushings to the channel to assure alingment of the pins and bushings.
There are 2 bushings, one for the front (it has the hole for the spirol pin and is a bit longer) and one for the rear that is tapered a bit to clear the oil pan in the case of a deep pan.
Nothing more than a couple slices of 3/4" bushing stock, available at any welding shop worth their salt.

Good luck!!
 

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Hopefully you will not have a cobbled up mess like this one was staring you in the face!!
The rear bushing was not even in contact with the pin!!
 

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Thank goodness my grandfather bought this 107 new in 1970. Jones implement company in Tyner ky. I still have the bill of sale, and all of the manuals. I was looking at the manual the other day and noticed in the back you could send off for a service manual for like $3. Wish pap would have splurged $3! But yea not a gommed up mess like that, just a forgotten zerk fitting...
 
Question, I have read through this thread, and I just want to make sure I am adjusting the correct nut on my steering box. My tractor is a 1968 105
My steering wheel turns a good 1/8th of a turn before I feel anything in the tie rod. Which nut should I be adjusting A, B, or C? THANK YOU in advance.

Steering Adjustment.jpg
 
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