Archive through July 03, 2006

[kfass]

Thanks to everyone who provided input re. replacing the crankcase seal on my 107. I got it back together Saturday morning and it was a good feeling mowing again. This tractor has become a real friend and I missed it.

And once again, I have a renewed appreciation for these little tractors after working on a "new" area of it!

 

[rwilke]

Trevor, Peter & Charlie: Thanks for the valve breather info!

So is there a favorite-to-this-Forum partshouse to get the valve breather gaskets & parts from?


Charlie,
That sure is a sweet vertical outside-the-hood muffler you illustrated... do you have a part # or location where I could locate one for my 12HP 129CC?

Thanks again, Dudes!
RDW

 

[afoes]

When I removed the drive shaft and clutch assembly from my 582. I had to move the drive shaft forward with a pry bar so that I could get it to clear the stub shaft going into the transmission. I found no reference to a end play clearance in the service manual for reinstallation. Should there be clearance or free end play of the drive shaft?

 

[cbruno]

Ooooh, Charlie, I like that muffler! Where can I get one?

 

[digger]

Ryan & Chris,
Here's a hint if your lookin for that sorta thing.

 

[aowsley]

Charlie, thats a sweet looking Kohler. Did you polish that muffler, or did your wife? T

 

[digger]

AO,
That "Killer Bee" belonged to Tom Buckland.

 

[vryon]

Paul,
I 'recon that I should have warned everyone that I have a rather dry sense of humor. However, having said that, I CANNOT be accused of overmaintaining the old Cub. I purchased it about 1984 at a bargain basement price for my "lawn maintenance" business (that I didn't have time to run). I knew how good Cubs were built, and got it to basically abuse it to death. Well, short story long, I've still got the old Cub, but not the business.

I really can't complain about the maintenance. A new one would probably be more work to maintain AND payments to boot. The biggest headache that I usually have is the drive pin in the driveshaft. I have been considering trying a Lovejoy for several years, but doubted that it would hold up. The "rag joint" sounds like a much better idea. I have recently replaced the steering linkage with rod end bearings and split the cap/replaced the rollpin on the front wheel spindle with a 3/8-24 bolt. I can actually mow a straight line now.

AND Thanx, Roland, for the info! I really didn't want to hear that I'll have to disassemble the old Cub. I know that I'll get it torn down and need a part that has to be ordered and they can't get it for ? weeks/months. That is the way my luck usually runs.

Well, enough of this blather...

Thanks for the welcome and the info. I look forward to swapping info with y'all.
Vince

(Message edited by vryon on July 03, 2006)

 

[dphelps]

Hope all have a happy and safe 4th.

Dave

 

[pdorow]

Vince,

I went through my hydro about a year or so ago and replaced all the seals gaskets. It's not that hard to R&R & parts are available.

Just make sure you pay close attention to the removal of the roll pins in the swash plate shafts. Also take some digital photos during disasembly.

Regards to the drive shaft pin--- try putting a new coupler housing on the flywheel & shim engine for proper alignment.

 

[digger]

Ya know, sometimes you just can't help making a MESS!

 

[digger]

Sometimes you gotta sneak under another Cubbers radar to snag a cub too!
Not to worry though, I was in and out in less that a hour.

 

[pkenney]

I have a 129 Cub and need to remove the PTO. I took out the 6 set screws but it still will not come off. Do I need a gear puller to get this off?

Thanks,

Pat

 

[digger]

Patrick K,
Check the last 2 archived pages and you will see several post on that very subject.

 

[dkirk]

Here's my submission for picture('s) of the month (do we have such a thing?). This is an exhaust valve from a K-series Kohler caught in the act of becoming a two-piece component.

Story has it that the owner, detecting a power loss, checked exhaust valve lash and found it to be near zero. He would reset, run for awhile, loose power, reset, etc. This scenario repeated until no more lash adjustment was available at the lifter, at which time he had the engine rebuilt. Check out the thermal erosion on the underside of the head.

Even the seating surface is beyond belief.

It's very rare to catch an exhaust valve in this stage of the "taffy pull" before the stem fails and the valve head becomes shrapnel. Much thanks to Tim Hjelle of Fond du Lac Auto Machine and Parts, Inc., for lending me this prized specimen to photograph.

 

[stanner]

Cap'n..
that was almost a "Ustabeast".... Used to be a good part... Dang.

 

[thoffman]

Charlie,
Did you stop for some of this while you were North-O-the border?

 

[wcompton]

Gee Charlie-
You had to be in the same town as my ex wife. Sucks to be you!

 

[digger]

Tom,
I went the other way this week, IOWAY! LOL

Wyatt,
Oh myyyyy, I shoulda stopped in to say you send your best!

 

[prightmyer]

Just wanted to keep you guys posted on my driveshaft issue. Instead of using another rag joint-oops "Flex Disc Coupling" (Roland)

, my local woodchuck engineering buddy decided to weld a steering knuckle from an S-10 to the coupling at the rear of the flywheel. The driveshaft was cut flush, and is attached to the coupling via a crimp connection. I'll get some pics when I get a chance. It works slick.