Archive through July 03, 2010

[rnajecki]

Joe C. -
Yes, the rear pin is the infamous Spirol Pin. You wrote that it fell out. Any luck in finding it in the grass with a magnet, which would be a miracle? Though if it came out, it probably was already sheared into two or three pieces.

Around here I can't find spirol (aka coil) pins in the well stocked hardware stores that seem to carry every type of bolt or nut. All they have is the tension aka roll pin. It's a shame nobody sells an assortment of spirol pins, like they do with nuts and bolts.

And as you probably already read, there are sets of punch tools with a dimpled head designed to drive these pins.

 

[lfcurtis]

a kwikway front end loader on craigs list fayetville,ar for 825.00 will it mod to fit on my 169? and is that a decent price bucket is bad but I can make a new one thx Lanny

 

[jcleer]

I found it. It was actually laying on top of the mower deck. It fits back in the shaft and coupler. It is in it in the pic, but I can push it right back out with a flat screwdriver.

 

[mgonitzke]

Finally got the steering wheel off. Had to make a puller out of a chunk of hardwood to use with a harmonic balancer puller. I wish I would have done that first. It came off very easily with this. The PO painted the end of the steering shaft red, for reasons I'll never understand, and then put the steering wheel on. That kept my penetrant from getting in there.

I'm no longer an advocate of the 'hammer, bolt, and nut' method for removing the steering wheel, as my attempt with it destroyed the lower bearing race.

The lower bearing race is on the left, upper on the right. The upper bearing race is in perfect condition. The galling from the my first steering wheel removal attempt is quite visible on the lower race. If I had just made the puller in the first place, I could have gotten away with new bearings and a cam follower...but now I need a bearing race, too.

 

[bzingleman]

Harry and Wayne, Thanks for the information on the 124 voltage regulator.

The total wiring harness may be an answer.

I looked at the backside of the ignition switch area late last night and found what looks like about a 10 gauge wire and a couple of 8 gauge wires that looked like they were cut off and twisted together and insulated with electrical tape.

Now I'm wondering what was bypassed or was there an option that used those wires that is no longer present?

I'm sure the color of the wires and a check of the wiring diagram will tell the tale.

Thanks

Bill in Georgia

 

[jcleer]

Matt thats a pretty slick idea. Looks like it works great.

 

[kide]

Joe C:
If the pin just drops out, it's the wrong size/type. Note that there are split spring pins and then there are true Spirol pins of several different types. The PO may have used the wrong one...our sponsors carry the real deal...

Matt:
When I did the steering box rebuild recently, the wheel pulled off with a light tap, but that may be because I used some anti-seize the previous time...

 

[kide]

Matt:
Also, if you've got the steering box apart, I'd be curious if the worm showed divots in it like I posted back here in May.

May Post

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE R. - BOY You've been busy answering questions the last couple days!!! My question is why didn't GERRY help? HUH Gerry?

And speaking of vacuum operated fuel pumps, The ONAN's in 982's had them. Think they're close to $100 each new now. In the case of the Onan I really HATE vacuum fittings located by the OEM so you can NOT see the connections of the vacuum lines like Onan did. Even though not showin in my parts catalog My vaccum line now has worm gear hose clamps on BOTH ends. WHAT a way to get dirt into the crankcase or just as bad, raw gasoline!

My SON paid $10 including shipping/postage for a slightly used Kohler mechanical fuel pump for my K321 in my CC 72. All new Kohler pumps (like the one I bought!) have quick connect fuel line fittings, NOT threaded ports!

BILL Z. - To add to what Harry said, the best explanation on the starting/charging system on our CC's is at a site called "Simple Tractors" please do a seach, for another off-color brand of lawn mower. Truth is the Delco starter and generator on older CC's was a very low production volume product for Delco and only used for 10-15 yrs decades ago that NOBODY in their right mind still uses that old equipment. (I'm being sarcastic!) That's why a replacement VR costs $50-$60 and you can buy one for a 12V '61 6-cyl. Chevy car or pickup for about $15. VOLUME discounts and larger order quantities.

Only other "Tractor" to use a S/G was a Cub Cadet 154 that I know of, I think the 185/184 used another style flywheel starter. The cover should be "Standard" and any Delco cover should fit but the relays and settings are very special. If your regulator does not work, Our Sponsors probably offer the best service & prices on a new replacement. You will not find anything from another vehicle with a bendix style starter and separate generator that will work. Dad talked to DOZENS of very competent parts people for twenty years on that topic and your "Cheap CC replacement VR" doesn't exist.

CHARLIE - What's Dura-Gard oil? Something those guys over at the other site and KRAIG use? I used HY-Gard in my CC 72 rearend for about 15 yrs. I thought I had a gallon of Hy-Tran but didn't and I hated to have my "Local Case/IH" dealer Special Order it for Me! I had a different dealer then than I have now. They didn't stock ANY CC parts at all!

 

[kide]

Dennis:
Seniority rule says the old folks get the holidays off...

I'll probably end up with the cheapest electric pump I can find (or maybe check my local L&G for any scrapyard ones...) I hate to go electric, because then I've got to wire in a relay to shut it off when the key is off (mag ignition, 6 volt starter, grounded ignition to shut off)

 

[dross]

Dennis just lite stuff for the weekend. I figured everybody was napping.
Joe, If you need to get the yard mowed now slip that pin in and hold it in with a hose clamp. Do not leave that and call it a fix. Make it right later but just to get the yard mowed it'll hold.

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - I looked for an elec. pump to replace the vacuum pump on my 982 a couple yrs ago. I couldn't find anything small enough for the flow & PSI range but then I didn't look REAL hard.

Far as age & seniority, I was off this past week too. We better warn DAVE next time We're both gone!

JEFF D. - re: Your hydro drive coupling on your CC's engine. My old 129 had a worn drive coupling worn about TWICE that much, knotches were deep enough to hook the whole 1/4" dowel pin in. And the ends of the dowel pin were worn half away. Worked fine for a WHOLE lot of years until the hole in the end of the driveshaft grew in diameter and wouldn't hold the dowel pin in place, would spit it out instantly. I put a worm gear hose clamp around the coupling for a year or two until the force of the pin poked holes thru the thin stainless band and then made a heavier steel band.

Problem with welding those knotches up is accurately machining the slots to the same width and length so both ends of the dowel pin carry the same load. And weld deposit is VERY hard to machine because it's SO hard. Also any time you weld on mild steel you distort it which may cause runout in the driveshaft and possible vibration. It would be easier to machine a new pair of slots if you have the equipment or know someone who does. But you have to compare the cost of that to a new or less worn used part.

 

[dnielsen]

Can someone tell me how to get the bearings off of the end of the auger shaft on a QA 42A snow blower? Thanks for any advice

 

[twilie]

Need a little boys. I've got a 149, K321AQS, that's been sitting a few years. I cleaned the tank, put on a new hose, and sprayed a little carb cleaner and she started right up with a little help from jumper cables. Noticed the carb was leaking gas so I put a new carb kit in. Still leaks, alot. First correct solution gets a big ole' THANK YOU!!!!

 

[dfrisk]

T.G. - Assuming you have the carb all assembled correctly, the new gaskets, seals, & washers installed where they belong, the most common reason I can think for a float bowl on a Kohler engine leaking or weaping gas would be DISTORTION in the soft aluminum the float bowl is made from, the area the bottom nut tightens against gets pushed "UP" and doesn't compress the square cross section seal ring you installed new in the carb body.

Shut the gas off, remove the float bowl, and set it squarely on a flat surface top sealing surface UP and notice how the contours of the metal are formed on the bottom, you need to lightly tap or depress that metal down say maybe 1/16th inch so it is still flat and smooth so the new fiber washer under the head of the brass nut still seals.

Best solution, Dave Kirk is a sponsor, tap on the colorful box above for Kirk Engines and he sells new zinc dichromate STEEL float bowls that won't distort which means one less place the carb can leak. And I thought they were real resonable in price too.

 

[dross]

T.G. did you adjust the float when you did the rebuild? Take the bowl off and turn the gas on (don't smoke) take your finger an apply upward pressure on the float doesn't take a lot of pressure. the gas should stop flowing when the float gets about level. If it doesn't stop at all you have a bad (or piece of crap in) needle and/or seat. How about you check it out and tell us what the problem was and we'll give you a big Nice Job...

under edit, I'll just lurk over here in the corner, most can type faster than me.

 

[twilie]

Thanks Dennis and Dave. Sounds like a fix to me. I'll try it tomorrow. Ha, I meant to say I need a litte "help". I guess we all need a little from time to time. Thanks again.

 

[mgonitzke]

The cam plate was badly warped (~1/8" runout from the pivot bolt to the end where the drag link attaches), but a few seconds with the hydraulic press and that's fixed.

I pulled the fenders off, washed those, and then pressure washed the chassis...I think there was more oil protecting the chassis than there would have been in the engine. What a mess...

It's pretty clean now...

I can start reassembly soon if I can get a new follower and bearing race for my steering box.

Gerry-

No marks like that on the worm. Did you replace the races in yours, by chance? If so, did they look like the ones in this picture?

The new ones are a completely different style, and don't look like they'll work in the case and adjustment plug without modifications.

 

[kide]

Matt:
Races, retainers and bearings were all good on the 129. The Cam plate was even flat and true.. I'm still puzzled about the worm, I've overgreased that box, if anything and it's pretty hard to blame the PO, he had it 11 years, I've had it 25... The only thing I can think is the follower pin or, as I said in the post, soft spots in the surface..

Your project looks pretty good, keep the pics comin'..

 

[jderstine]

Thanks Dennis
I guess I just make a new one at work.

Jeff