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Archive through July 03, 2006
- Thread starter kfass
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I got a little more info on the IH Gremlin from the wife of an IH draft/designer that worked for IH from 1946 through 1976 in Ft. Wayne.
This one was the first production piece, for which 500 were produced.
And these are original drawings and mock ups for that piece.
According to the paper that the production piece is printed on (according to 3M), these would have been printed anytime after 1955 but more than likely around the early 60's.
This one was the first production piece, for which 500 were produced.
And these are original drawings and mock ups for that piece.
According to the paper that the production piece is printed on (according to 3M), these would have been printed anytime after 1955 but more than likely around the early 60's.
dclinansmith
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- David Clinansmith
A friend of mine asked me to help with a problem transmission in his 1250 CC. He purchased the tractor and was told that everything worked but it needed an engine rebuild, that was done with no problem and of course the hydro problem didn't surface until the engine started. The problem seems to be a failure of the charge pump to prime itself. It has has had the fluid & filter changed but that made no difference. We checked the relief valves and they seem to be good.This is the first time I have seen this happen and I have no idea what to do next, we would welcome any ideas. TIA
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Question about the brake style mechanical front PTO clutch on a 108-
The nuts came loose on one of the bolts and as a result that finger became disconnected from the center button. I took off the clutch, reinstalled the bolt so the same amount of threads were sticking out as on the other two, and.... it won't disengage. There's only about 2.5 to 3 threads showing on each bolt. In the manual they use a gauge to set the bolts to the correct depth, but this thing doesn't need a rebuild kit, so I don't have this gauge. Could someone measure this gauge for me so I can re-set the bolts, or does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks!
BTW, that brake is <u>really</u> strong. When the bolt came out the brake disc was pushed out and it stalled the engine.
The nuts came loose on one of the bolts and as a result that finger became disconnected from the center button. I took off the clutch, reinstalled the bolt so the same amount of threads were sticking out as on the other two, and.... it won't disengage. There's only about 2.5 to 3 threads showing on each bolt. In the manual they use a gauge to set the bolts to the correct depth, but this thing doesn't need a rebuild kit, so I don't have this gauge. Could someone measure this gauge for me so I can re-set the bolts, or does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks!
BTW, that brake is <u>really</u> strong. When the bolt came out the brake disc was pushed out and it stalled the engine.
mhomrighausen
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- Sep 20, 2001
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Davic C. Have you checked the charge pressure? How long has the tractor set without being run. Is oil getting to the pump? This is what you should check in sequential order for loss of power of will not operate in either direction.
Check oil level in reservoir. If okay check control linkage. If okay then Inspect by-pass valve. If this is all okay... Check charge pressure. If low ... inspect inlet filter... ok.. inspect charge relief... ok... inspect implement relief valve... ok... inspect charge pump... IF Charge Pressure is ok...check system pressure... if LOW... inspect accelration valves... ok... inspect charge check valves.
I don't know what others will recommend. Perhaps they have something simpler and better. Just a couple of suggestions here.
Check oil level in reservoir. If okay check control linkage. If okay then Inspect by-pass valve. If this is all okay... Check charge pressure. If low ... inspect inlet filter... ok.. inspect charge relief... ok... inspect implement relief valve... ok... inspect charge pump... IF Charge Pressure is ok...check system pressure... if LOW... inspect accelration valves... ok... inspect charge check valves.
I don't know what others will recommend. Perhaps they have something simpler and better. Just a couple of suggestions here.
Gremlins would be fun. If I could get hold of a "Gremlin", it could be scaned hi-res and I could supply the file to anyone wanting to print some out on a color ink jet or laser. There is sticker paper available for ink jets that is pretty good. The problem would be fading if it was used in the sun. If there was enough interest, it could be printed by the offset method, fading would still happen over time but not as fast. The best method would be screen printing, but the cost would be higher, but the piece would be almost indestructable.
Ok, guys, have a request & a question. I'm rebuilding an M18S to put in my 682. It has the remote oil filter which am reluctant to use, don't like the idea of hoses, leaks, breaks, & getting in the way. Is there a way to use a block mount? Has anyone made this conversion? Do I need to cut away some of the sheet metal? Will it disturb air flow? How do I change the filter, thru the grille? And if I do have to use the remote, can someone send a picture of exactly where it's mounted, from a 1810 or 1811 for instance?
Okay, well, several questions.
Thanks
Okay, well, several questions.
Thanks
rbedell
Well-known member
David C:
How about checking to see, if the input shaft to the Hydro is actually turning. There is a Spirol Pin on the Input Shaft Coupler Adpator that sometimes breaks. When this happens, the drive shaft turns but the hyrdo input shaft does not.
How about checking to see, if the input shaft to the Hydro is actually turning. There is a Spirol Pin on the Input Shaft Coupler Adpator that sometimes breaks. When this happens, the drive shaft turns but the hyrdo input shaft does not.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Norm,
The block mounts do not work well on 82 series BTDT. The sheet metal does not allow you enough room to unscrew the filter if you use the correct lower air duct.
Use the remote filter, it holds prime 3x better than the sideways mounted "on-block" filter (my oil pressure gauge proved this) and it's mess free to change, pull one bolt and swing it out over the pan.
I might still have the block mounted base if you are interested in it.
The block mounts do not work well on 82 series BTDT. The sheet metal does not allow you enough room to unscrew the filter if you use the correct lower air duct.
Use the remote filter, it holds prime 3x better than the sideways mounted "on-block" filter (my oil pressure gauge proved this) and it's mess free to change, pull one bolt and swing it out over the pan.
I might still have the block mounted base if you are interested in it.
dgallagher
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- Joined
- Feb 12, 2000
- Messages
- 179
- displayname
- David Gallagher
I have a Cub Cadet hourmeter that I want to put on my 149. 1. How do I hook the 2 wires up? and 2. Is there a good way to clean the plastic lens that seems to be scratched up ? Thanks
My wife has been complaining that the trailer I built for her to use is always full of my fence supplies-- and she's right. Anyway, today I took a couple rollers and started making her a personal "garden cart". I put a 7 hp engine in it since I figure it won't be doing any heavy work.
It will have a dump bed on it when I finish.
But I have a problem I'm hoping someone can help me with. I need to extend the length of the hydraulic lines that run from the hydrostat to the control valve. What type of fitting is the female fitting (name and size) that connects to the control valve. I want to convert it to a standard pipe fitting and connect to standard hydraulic hose (pipe). I know I can replace the male fitting that comes out of the control valve with a standard pipe. If I recall the fitting in the control valve is an SAE 6 or SAE 8. I can't find any kind of pipe fittings that will make a sharp enough turn to avoid hitting the rag joint coming out of the hydrostat so I want to use the original tubes and convert them to pipe. Any help or other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Paul
It will have a dump bed on it when I finish.
But I have a problem I'm hoping someone can help me with. I need to extend the length of the hydraulic lines that run from the hydrostat to the control valve. What type of fitting is the female fitting (name and size) that connects to the control valve. I want to convert it to a standard pipe fitting and connect to standard hydraulic hose (pipe). I know I can replace the male fitting that comes out of the control valve with a standard pipe. If I recall the fitting in the control valve is an SAE 6 or SAE 8. I can't find any kind of pipe fittings that will make a sharp enough turn to avoid hitting the rag joint coming out of the hydrostat so I want to use the original tubes and convert them to pipe. Any help or other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Paul
dclinansmith
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- Nov 10, 2004
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- David Clinansmith
Marlin & Roland,
I have no idea when the tractor last ran or what it did before its new owner got it.I will go out to his place and try to help find the problem. I may have to come back for some more advice. I have five hydro CC tractors and they all seem to prime quickly after a fluid & filter change this problem is totally new to me. My 149 V/R quit working yesterday so it must a bad time for CCs down here. That is the first real repair since new in Jul. 73 so I probably shouldn't complain. Thanks again.
I have no idea when the tractor last ran or what it did before its new owner got it.I will go out to his place and try to help find the problem. I may have to come back for some more advice. I have five hydro CC tractors and they all seem to prime quickly after a fluid & filter change this problem is totally new to me. My 149 V/R quit working yesterday so it must a bad time for CCs down here. That is the first real repair since new in Jul. 73 so I probably shouldn't complain. Thanks again.
Matt G, ive got an extra gauge i can mail you if nobody helps you out on the measurements.or if you got a dealer that sells or works on IH near you they might have one to. i dont have the ability to post pics yet, trying to tell you the measurements would probly confuse you and me both. let me know if you need the gauge. T
Steve,
Do you mean it holds 3 times the amount of oil, or 3 times the pressure? What does your pressure gauge read? Wouldn't happen to have a picture of where it mounts, would you?
BTW, what does BTDT stand for?
Norm
Do you mean it holds 3 times the amount of oil, or 3 times the pressure? What does your pressure gauge read? Wouldn't happen to have a picture of where it mounts, would you?
BTW, what does BTDT stand for?
Norm
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Norm,
Been There, Done That...BTDT
By holding a prime, I mean it does not drain oil back to the crankcase (because the filter is vertical) like the horizintal block mounted filter does. You get oil pressure instantly on start up, not after 3 seconds (while the pump fills the filter).
My 782 runs 50-65# on start-up WOT (wide open throttle) and carries about 25# WOT when good and hot under a load (1 hour into mowing). 10-15# on idle, hot.
The factory idiot light comes on at 3-7# so you never see how long it takes to fill the filter, but you can sure hear it!!! The gauge was VERY telling!!!
The bottom shroud is a real pain when a filter change is due (block mounted base). After the first change I said "heck with this" and put a remote filter on my 782...much nicer.
Been There, Done That...BTDT
By holding a prime, I mean it does not drain oil back to the crankcase (because the filter is vertical) like the horizintal block mounted filter does. You get oil pressure instantly on start up, not after 3 seconds (while the pump fills the filter).
My 782 runs 50-65# on start-up WOT (wide open throttle) and carries about 25# WOT when good and hot under a load (1 hour into mowing). 10-15# on idle, hot.
The factory idiot light comes on at 3-7# so you never see how long it takes to fill the filter, but you can sure hear it!!! The gauge was VERY telling!!!
The bottom shroud is a real pain when a filter change is due (block mounted base). After the first change I said "heck with this" and put a remote filter on my 782...much nicer.
Rob,
I'll post a pic tomorrow.
I'll post a pic tomorrow.
