Archive through July 03, 2010

[mgonitzke]

Here's the 682 I've been working on. I sold the 124 out from under my loader, so it's become time to put something else together for it. I've finally collected the right stuff to go through with this: An IH-built 682 (Oct. '79) and an engine smaller than the KT-17 that was in it. I wanted a K301AQS but wound up with a K321AQS instead. Oh well... The engine came from a 1250 and the iso-mounts were shot, so the pan has some wear, but I think it's usable if there's no cracks. I think every gasket and seal on that engine leaked, so I spent awhile yesterday degreasing the engine.

I've got a gasket set for it, and I'll be removing the balance gears (by disassembling the engine, if necessary) if I find any when I drop the pan to replace the leaky gasket. I'll also toss in a new set of points and condenser and new spark plug (and I might spring for a Pointsaver if I have any $$$ left over after I put this thing together). It also needs a head gasket, so perhaps I'll do a how-to for that while I'm at it.

Here's the tractor:

That KT-17 must have been throwing oil for quite awhile...everything in the engine compartment was greasy. This tractor is in pretty good shape overall though; the rag joints are in great shape, and the rear coupler is still tight on the input shaft. I took the bearings out of the front wheels and found them to be in great shape, so I packed them with grease and reinstalled them. I also tightened the slop in the front axle by tightening the nut on the pivot bolt about half a turn, and greased the front spindles. I wanted to take the steering column out to go through the box, but I haven't been able to remove the steering wheel yet. So I spent most of the day cleaning the greasy mess off of the parts I removed.

The garage is very red at the moment...

 

[digger]

Since it seems the 169 is the tractor of choice to spruce up the last couple weeks.
I was doing pretty well until the humidity went up to 85% the last few days!

 

[kphill]

Is your paint blushing Charlie?.What type are you using?

 

[digger]

Kevin H.
Just plain ole Cub Cadet yellow & white.
I kinda pushed the limit the other day with the fenders final coat with the humidity at 56% and they are now inside the house curing until I sand'um down and do them again.

I'm thinking the next one I do is going to be Iron Guard. At least it's consistent throughout the temperature and humidity range.

I did use Iron guard the other day at 68% and it turned out pretty with a slight fogging at the end.

 

[kphill]

I have never used IronGaurd but I really like the way CC paint sprays. looks. and holds up. You may want to try using Dupont Centari Acrylic Enamel Reducer in your paint. Mid-Temp is good for 70-85 degree range, and High Temp is for 85 and up. High temp can be tricky to lay down as it is very slow dry and flows out for a long time before tacking. Sounds like the reducer is your problem. Do not mix with thinner as that is made for Lacquer and not Enamel and it will really blush,

 

[rnajecki]

Besides pulling the engine for a visual inspection, is there any way to know if the iso-mounts are shot on a Quiet Line?

 

[mgonitzke]

Roy-

Try to wiggle the engine side-to-side. If it does...they're shot. You may also be able to see the engine moving around when you change throttle position while the engine is running.

 

[rnajecki]

Matt,
They must be shot because the engines and tractor rocks while running. Though I haven't done a side-to-side comparison to my 149. At certain speeds it seems stable, but I presume at all speeds it should be fairly stable if the iso-mounts are in good shape. I can only hope the oil pan is in good shape. I haven't yet pulled an engine, so it seems I need to buy a lift for this project.

 

[digger]

Kevin H.
I think ya missed the part where the 85% humidity came down on me faster than I thought it would.

 

[kphill]

Charlie, that is what the liquid tools are for doncha know!..

 

[hydroharry]

Bill Z - on your question about the voltage regulators, can't say if the old car ones are going to be the same. The black cover and gasket most likely is, but probably not much more. You'd probably have a better chance of finding one on an old tractor that would have the same innerds.

Roy N - let us know how you make out on the lift lever and that J shaped replacement piece. On your question about the ISO mounts, if you have the deck off the tractor you should be able to see at least the lower mounts from under neath. If you have a partner have him/her pull the engine to the right side. It's usually the left ones that are really shot. Another thing you can look for, assuming the PO was using the side panels, is a little dent from the air cleaner cover mounting shaft. I've seen'm wear a hole right thru the side panel. The AQS engines with ISO mounts, do shake especially at 900-1200 rpms. I don't know if you just see them flopping back and forth at those speeds or not, but it's almost scary. Once you have some decent mounts you'll see a noticeable difference. I would recommend doing the cradle mod while you're at it. It will help stiffen things up.

Charlie - you know there something about your 169 sitting there looking like that. It's got a sorta mean look to it - like it's gonna really come to LIFE. Must be something about the tires and wheel weights. Make sure you keep us updated with more pics as you're doing it.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (AQS=SRR)

 

[rnajecki]

Harry and all, Happy 4th.

To observe the day I just hung my 48-star flag which my grandmother received when my uncle Eddie was shot down somewhere over the Pacific in July 1945. Thank God my late father only got shot in the knee by a Japanese sniper, otherwise I wouldn't be here. My other uncle Mattie was a medic in Europe.

Anyway, the side panel of my 1450 doesn't show any sign of rubbing from the air filter, which is a good thing. I've got the urethane iso-mounts on order, and when Rich Patton gets back from vacation and I'll ask him about his cradle modification kit.

While I'm going through the 1450 and changing the implement lift arm/lever, I'll also change the Hy-Tran, engine oil, filters, install some stuff from Dave Kirk like his muffler crutch, point slayer, and tach. I probably should de-carb the head as well. If there is something else I should do to make the iso-mounts work right please let me know.

The one thing I need to do on all my Cubs is fix the hydro creep. I've read the FAQ, but maybe Matt can do a photo how-to ? I've haven't split any of my Cubs, and the thought of messing with the hydro is a bit daunting, but it probably won't be that bad once I get into it.

 

[jcleer]

So here is how my yesterday ended up......

It started out with shreding the belt for the mower. Got new belt, mowed about 60 more feet, heard a ping, then no movement forward or backward. Looked under for shrapnel found the pin fell out of hydro input shaft. Not an easy thing to get to on a NF. I know there has been a lot of discussion on here bout these pins. This HAS to be the spiroll pin correct?? No grade 8 bolts or roll pin right.
I don't want to have to do this again.

 

[dross]

Joe, the front pin is a solid steel not spiral.

 

[jharvey]

Roy N.
Go to the sandbox and see Hydro cork gasket replacement, that and the FAQ will work for your 1450 trunion repair. The 129 and 1450 share the same service manual.

 

[jbaker]

Everyone Have a Happy and safe 4th of July

 

[jcleer]

Thanks for the reply Dave, but this is the pin rear of the flex coupling.

 

[wkashner]

Thanks, Matt G & Dave Ross for the accurate and quick response on the 149 Hydro. You guys were right on the money.

 

[wmiller]

Bill Z. Most/all automotive regulators have three "units" inside,Cubs have only two. I don't think your starter/gen would like that. Cub regulators are square and the automotive ones are rectangular to accomodate the third unit. If your tractor still has the original rubber and fabric covered wiring,consider getting a new harness to save yourself endless trouble with the insulation failing and causing shorts and grounds. I replaced them both on my 126/147,they were both literally falling apart. If you change the harness,its much easier with the engine removed(I did it both ways).

 

[jcleer]

Here are a pic

This directly above the trans filter.