Archive through February 13, 2011

[gpeterson]

Did some more research on the Valspar Paint, the Restoration series is an automotive quality enamel designed for restoring tractors and implements to a display condition. When checking out the Tractor and Implement paint line I was left with the feeling this is an OK paint, however one that would not provide the finish that I'd be satisfied with in the longrun.

Steve B Hope my fender deck turns out as great as yours.

Thanks to all for helping and will post a picture when completed. Glenn

 

[digger]

I'll stick with Ironguard and compare it to any other Cub paint our there for shine and durability.

 

[aaytay]

Timothy-
I'm about 99% that they're 7/16-20...

 

[dtanner]

Charlie "Digger" Proctor
Just dropped in to catch up and see Charlies Yellow thumb

. Makes me wonder if he has a red ,white and blue digit also.

What is the next tractor you will do a refub on,Might it be a squirrel delivered and abused diesel (for the Dog)next ? Nite all

 

[tpennell]

I believe your right,I looked up the parts link at top of page and it lists 7/16-20. Thanks again. The links at the top are really useful.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul A., thanks for the nice comments. I refer to that as a refurb, not a restore. The colors are not correct. For the yellow I used two different brands of rattle can paint, MTD Cub Cadet Yellow and Fleet Farm Valspar Cub Cadet yellow. Both of which are for the MTD Cub Cadets. The engine was a rebuilt engine I bought from Kevin Dunham, a forum member that has not been around in recent years. Not sure what paint he used on it. The hood was painted with Fleet Farm Valspar rattle can IH white. In hind sight I wish I had invested in a decent spray gun and used quarts of the correct color paint with hardener. For my #1 125 that is all apart in the early stages of a refurb, I hope to use a spray gun and the proper paint.

 

[stanner]

Went out to a Valentine's breakfast at IHOP with the missus, then went for a ride up to the port of Oswego, NY via backroads... Lotas of snow, the banks here are about 12+ft high.. On the way back, near Conquest, NY, I spy a Cub sitting up on a roof.. Looks like an original with a newer hood with stripes... I can't help wonder what S/N it is...

 

[proessler]

Jeff...Cyclops CC are the series after models 1810,1811,1872,2072 & others. A few Cyclops models are 1535,1541,1862,1864 with composite/plastic hood , side panels & that single eye looking front headlite panel.

 

[lpalma]

What is a cyclops and why is it on this forum,I thought this was for IH built Cub Cadets?
I can't wait for warmer weather to resume painting again,gotta finish up some projects I started a few years ago.

 

[jbaker]

To all I am sorry I did not know what the cyclops was and really thouhgt it was a narrow frame model thats why I posted here.

So on topic does any one have repair ideas for a broken cast nose cone on a 1x8,9 series

 

[stanner]

Jeff B,
I'm sure our sponsors would be more than happy to send you one...

If that isn't what you had in mind, then try locally for a welding shop or boat propeller repair shop that could weld it for you...

I could suggest JB weld, not to make your repair, but to bring KENtuk back...

 

[jbaker]

Scott...This is for a spare tractor and there is no money to buy one at the moment,

I have very very little welding excperience and was told that the cast
nose cone is unweldable

 

[aschumacher]

Jeff, I have no expierence welding anything, but...if you Google cast iron welding I think you will find it can be done. The problem is prep time and cooling time which could be a day or two. <font size="-2">Just from what I've read here on the Forum over the years.</font>

 

[kmcconaughey]

I thought the upper grill part on a 1x8/9 was cast aluminum.

I know the lower grill on my parts 149 is cast iron. I think I may have an upper part squirreled away in the shed. I'll have to check this evening.

Scott, these are for you:

 

[kmcconaughey]

BTW, Charlie, thanks for turning this back on.

 

[dfrisk]

LEWIS P. - I think I answered someone's question about a week ago for an IH CC and mentioned the CYCLOPS tractors. Not everyone was familiar with the term. So that's why they were mentioned.

JEFF B. - My old 129 had been run into something and the hood front piece/grill casting was broke & welded. Whoever did it did an UGLY job of it, didn't grind any of the welds down but I sanded them up and it looked O-K from 3-5 feet.

They can be welded, just takes special TIG welding equipment. It's a die casting. SCOTT is right on the money with the suggestion to take it to a welding shop or boat repair shop.

 

[dfrisk]

ALLEN - Your correct, cast iron can be welded. But depending on the size of the part, and configuration, pre-heat is strongly recommended, run a short bead then peen to stress relieve the weld as it cools, then weld some more. Short beads are best. And a post weld heat and controlled slow cool works best. Also you should use high Nickle content rod, which if you follow the wrought nickle market it's VERY costly. I've done a fair amount of welding for an "amateur" and I've never welded CI, or even tried, or felt the need to buy ANY rod to practice.

What makes CI hard to weld is the way the heat affects the carbon grains along side the weld bead, makes the metal right next to the bead VERY brittle, sometimes cracking as it cools.

 

[stanner]

Jeff,
Dennis is spot on... I got corn-fuzzed and thought the nose was aluminum... DOH!!

You could perhaps pin it together if it was a clean break w/ some JB (sorry KENtuk) and/or attach a strap from behind to cobble it together..

 

[aschumacher]

Dennis, that ending statement is what I remembered, take the hot CI and bury it in sand to cool it slowly. Think Kentuck talked about it years ago. Scott, I remember drilling CI soil pipe and is tough on bits, but your idea of a steel bar on the rear sounds like a workable repair if welding not available.

 

[dfrisk]

SCOTT - My old 129 had the Cast Iron lower grill, REALLY beefy...lots of weight. The frt portion clamped to the frt of the grill was diecast that had been welded. And depending on which alloy is used determines it's weldability. Alum. is one component, zinc, tin, probably other trace elements. If I remember right it's the zinc that causes the welding problems. But alum welds really nice if you get the right alloy & heat-treat.

Your suggestion was 100% correct. Weld shop or boat repair shop.